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In general on threaded fasteners, but particularly on allens, and especially on the water bridge bolts: tap them first. Put the socket in the hole and tap it with a hammer. This will help loosen stuck threads. Do this and be generous with the penetrant. You do not much want to break or strip those puppies. But they really want you to.
Yes, you did hydrolock it. This is super easy to do while working on the CIS system. The reason it later started turning over is because all that fuel made its way down into your crankcase. Please change your oil immediately or you will have to re seal your lower ends. The seals down there do not like contact with fuel. Particularly if you have a silicon pan gasket.
When fiddling with CIS system I like to pull the injectors out and put them in plastic water bottles. That way you can see what they are doing and no chance of hydrolock. Eventually, you will be able to hear when fuel is flowing. When the car is not running you must have zero fuel flowing or you will quickly hydrolock.
Thank you for that info. I drained the oil today minus the filter. I couldnt get it to come off and didn’t make it back out to try again after picking up a filter socket. Should I go ahead and pull the filter as well? Should I put new oil in immediately or does it not matter since I got the oil out? Once I get it back up and running I was going to put moly 2037 in with the new oil, run it for 30 minutes or so and then drain the oil again and put fresh in.
As for the water bridge, I’m extremely hesitant pulling it off but I want the oil fill canister off and I don’t think I have a choice. I keep spraying penetrant on them and have some nice Allen sockets. Would some heat prior help as well to the tapping? Thanks again for the advice.
I just did a refresh on MY 79 USA this past winter and felt the same way about water bridge, but was able to remove oil filler with it in place. Little more fiddly getting it back on but all back together and no leaks.
Curt