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What year is your car? I'm trying to figure out how much of this is applicable to my 944 S2, which will also require some head work, when the triage on the other cars has been done.
What year is your car? I'm trying to figure out how much of this is applicable to my 944 S2, which will also require some head work, when the triage on the other cars has been done.
Cam Chain Crush washers 90012305030 - 4 per side - total of 8
92810444308 - listed twice
Exhaust manifold nuts and washers - should be 24 of each. This has always confused me. :-)
If you are ever planning on headers now is the time to replace the exhaust studs with shorter versions and 12mm head flange nuts (GB advice)
New thermostat
missing one intake gasket should be 2
No mention of the 26 thrust rings 92810411502 and 52 ( I use 2 per bolt) crush washers 90012314430
4 90017405640 oil port O-rings GB offers uber versions of these with his cam cover baffles
Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; 07-08-2022 at 12:35 PM.
Cam Chain Crush washers 90012305030 - 4 per side - total of 8
92810444308 - listed twice
Exhaust manifold nuts and washers - should be 24 of each. This has always confused me. :-)
If you are ever planning on headers now is the time to replace the exhaust studs with shorter versions and 12mm head flange nuts (GB advice)
New thermostat
missing one intake gasket should be 2
No mention of the 26 thrust rings 92810411502 and 52 ( I use 2 per bolt) crush washers 90012314430
4 90017405640 oil port O-rings GB offers uber versions of these with his cam cover baffles
Got it, the thermostat is months old, within a year..I guess I could do..another one.
Why replace the exhaust studs and such? Havent read that one yet...
Heads are R2 castings
Refreshed and assembled
DLC Lightweight lifters
GB regrind cams
Goal is Hans S/C Prep.
New Porsche WP going on at the same time.
Not even going to ask what the new cam profiles are, not my magic..but Im told to expect "nice things".
And I should recover a measurable amount of HP in the DLC coated lifters as well.
Should be done Aug 3-10th or so.
Am I missing anything???
Jeff:
One decision I have made is that I will continue to help by devoted followers with advice.
Forget buying all of the gaskets, seals, and crush rings separately. Too much hassle and too expensive! Buy a complete Victior Reinz gasket set, add the pieces that are missing, and save the few things supplied for the bottom end. Throw away the flywheel seal and the pan gasket.
(I've got dozens of these gasket sets, in stock,, for my.own use and for my client's use.)
Note:
I typed a long list of do's and don't, with details...and then erased all of it.
Way too much information, for the "wanna be experts" here. We will talk on Monday, when you pick up your heads.
One decision I have made is that I will continue to help by devoted followers with advice.
Forget buying all of the gaskets, seals, and crush rings separately. Too much hassle and too expensive! Buy a complete Victior Reinz gasket set, add the pieces that are missing, and save the few things supplied for the bottom end. Throw away the flywheel seal and the pan gasket.
(I've got dozens of these gasket sets, in stock,, for my.own use and for my client's use.)
Note:
I typed a long list of do's and don't, with details...and then erased all of it.
Way too much information, for the "wanna be experts" here. We will talk on Monday, when you pick up your heads.
Got it, the thermostat is months old, within a year. I guess I could do. Another one.
Why replace the exhaust studs and such? Haven't read that one yet...
That came directly from Greg. Basically the OEM studs are pretty long. And when it comes time to add headers it's damn near impossible to do that in situ.
Greg's advice is to replace the studs with shorter versions and go to small head (12mm) flange nuts so you can more easily get to the bolts and slide the manifolds out and headers in.
I'm doing that now for my GTS engine on my engine stand. SOP from now on.
Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; 07-08-2022 at 03:22 PM.
When you remove the current heads appreciate if you can take some pics of the head surfaces and the gasket surfaces- particularly the head side of the gaskets.
When you remove the current heads appreciate if you can take some pics of the head surfaces and the gasket surfaces- particularly the head side of the gaskets.
Oh ya, TONS of pics are required in the job..esp of this stage.
Oh ya, TONS of pics are required in the job..esp of this stage.
If the heads are corroded as you suspect, then you should find that the areas that are particularly affected should line up with damage on the inner surfaces of the head gasket. This should be more apparent from pics taken before the head surfaces are "cleaned up" and possibly less so after being cleaned. Either way, if this phenomena is present it should be possible to spot how the coolant tracked into the damaged area before doing what it inevitably does once the process I have defined takes hold.
When it comes to reinstatement do you intend to refit the head gasket with the stock setup or perhaps with some amendment with a view to keeping the acidic gunge from forming in the first place? There is no established/proven procedure to prevent this and a regular installation theoretically should buy you many more years or service but "how long" is just not predictable. Based on what i have been able to piece together I suspect that the heads should be pulled after about 15 years to check and see how they are getting on and if this problem is manifesting itself possibly might help prevent terminal damage levels of corrosion from taking place.
Hopefully your heads may even be in perfect condition. Mine were when they were removed at 15 years of age back in 2005 post wreck of my late S4. The more data points we get the more we might just learn about this serious issue. As I am concerned the design of the stock head gasket using it as a baffle plate to seal off the "cast in" transfer passages is the root cause of this problem- whether this issue is "soluble" remains to be seen. Sealing the vulnerable surfaces of the gasket to head joint [i.e those surfaces that are not counter supported on the block side] with a non hardening sealant might just do the trick but of course no guarantees.
I find it interesting that on my Cayenne Turbo S that motor has a closed deck construction and on the likes of the 996 and 997 variants the gaskets are now completely sandwiched even with open deck constructions so presumably Porsche have learned where they went wrong on the 928, 944 and 968 platforms that all appear to have this issue. It is a fair bet that other marques have similar issues given most if not all use glycol in their cooling systems but I have no known data points about such.
One decision I have made is that I will continue to help by devoted followers with advice.
Forget buying all of the gaskets, seals, and crush rings separately. Too much hassle and too expensive! Buy a complete Victior Reinz gasket set, add the pieces that are missing, and save the few things supplied for the bottom end. Throw away the flywheel seal and the pan gasket.
(I've got dozens of these gasket sets, in stock,, for my.own use and for my client's use.)
Note:
I typed a long list of do's and don't, with details...and then erased all of it.
Way too much information, for the "wanna be experts" here. We will talk on Monday, when you pick up your heads.
If the heads are corroded as you suspect, then you should find that the areas that are particularly affected should line up with damage on the inner surfaces of the head gasket. This should be more apparent from pics taken before the head surfaces are "cleaned up" and possibly less so after being cleaned. Either way, if this phenomena is present it should be possible to spot how the coolant tracked into the damaged area before doing what it inevitably does once the process I have defined takes hold.
When it comes to reinstatement do you intend to refit the head gasket with the stock setup or perhaps with some amendment with a view to keeping the acidic gunge from forming in the first place? There is no established/proven procedure to prevent this and a regular installation theoretically should buy you many more years or service but "how long" is just not predictable. Based on what i have been able to piece together I suspect that the heads should be pulled after about 15 years to check and see how they are getting on and if this problem is manifesting itself possibly might help prevent terminal damage levels of corrosion from taking place.
Hopefully your heads may even be in perfect condition. Mine were when they were removed at 15 years of age back in 2005 post wreck of my late S4. The more data points we get the more we might just learn about this serious issue. As I am concerned the design of the stock head gasket using it as a baffle plate to seal off the "cast in" transfer passages is the root cause of this problem- whether this issue is "soluble" remains to be seen. Sealing the vulnerable surfaces of the gasket to head joint [i.e those surfaces that are not counter supported on the block side] with a non hardening sealant might just do the trick but of course no guarantees.
I find it interesting that on my Cayenne Turbo S that motor has a closed deck construction and on the likes of the 996 and 997 variants the gaskets are now completely sandwiched even with open deck constructions so presumably Porsche have learned where they went wrong on the 928, 944 and 968 platforms that all appear to have this issue. It is a fair bet that other marques have similar issues given most if not all use glycol in their cooling systems but I have no known data points about such.
07-08-2022, 12:33 AM
HG replacement prep
