snoz

It seems like anytime I dig into one of the few remaining places on my car that I haven't done work, the project grows. I started out wanting to replace my radiator and A/C compressor. That has grown to replacing the front pieces of the transmission cooler lines and oil cooler lines as well.

Things were going well until I got to removing the oil cooler lines. Apparently someone had been in there before. The fittings were barely snugged into the block. Since they had already been broken loose before I decided to back them out and replace the sealing rings. I had read that it was common for the last thread or two to flake off when unscrewing these. My upper connection was no exception. I haven't removed the lower fitting yet but am leaning that way. I ordered an inductive heater and plan to heat the lower fitting enough to melt the green thread lock. I'm kind of on the fence about removing it, but I'm thinking I probably should since it's been loose. Hopefully the heater can get it hot enough to liquify the thread lock.

I got a M22 1.5 tap and a thread chaser to clean out the threads. I ended up using both in the process of cleaning it up. My plan is to do the JB weld fix that others have used. Hopefully I can get them to seal up.

Here are before and after pictures of the threads.





-Ethan

Mrmerlin

I would be careful about running a tap in the threaded holes in your block either using old bolt or use a pick tool to clean out the loctite sometimes a new tap will be making a bigger cut into the block and then the fitting will be loose in this case using JB Weld will take up some of the clearance but still be aware

that this is especially important if you plan on chasing stud threads use an old bolt and cut three flutes into it and use it as a thread chaser but that’s it just my suggestion

snoz

Thanks Stan. I tried a pick for awhile and really got nowhere. What are your thoughts on the 52 ft/lb torque spec in this case? That seems a little steep to me for a brass fitting into an aluminum block. I may not be able to torque it that tight if I've removed much metal.

-Ethan

Mrmerlin

If your using JB weld 1/4 turn past snug should do it, use a new sealing ring.
when you remove material from a threaded hole the chance for a full torque application can be called into question

jeff spahn

Like stan said, use the thread chaser, not the tap.

snoz

Well the inductive heater did the trick. I was able to remove the lower fitting without any thread damage. I heated it for about 40 seconds to get it to start unthreading fairly easily. I just alternated heat and loosening a few times and it came right out.



This heater may well come in handy from time to time. The handle is pretty large which makes it a bit unwieldly though.



-Ethan

GregBBRD

The title of this thread describes virtually every job started on every 928.

snoz

I've just gotten back around to working on this some more. I'm not having much luck trying to reattach the chunk of thread that broke off. I just can't see what I'm doing well enough to tell if I have it placed correctly. I'm thinking I'll just go with it as is after a bit more cleaning. I'll be using new fittings, new crush washers, and plenty of JB weld. Hopefully it seals.

snoz

I got the new fittings installed. The new fittings are a little different than the originals. They have a couple more threads on the engine side and a tapered area that holds the crush washer centered a bit better. I was able to torque both to factory spec.

Old and new fitting


I didn't do the tidiest job with the JB Weld on the upper one, but I think it will hold. I just used Loctite on the lower one since there was no damage when I removed it.

snoz

New oil and front transmission cooler lines are done along with a new radiator and AC compressor. I drove it about 30 miles and don't see and leaks so far. Hopefully it stays that way.

-Ethan

snoz

I charged my AC yesterday and it blows cool. I drove for about 45 minutes and was getting 50 degrees out of the center vent on about a 98 degree day. I'm thinking that it was cooling pretty well considering the conditions for '86 using R134A. Let me know what you folks think.

-Ethan

928NOOBIE

hey Ethan
Almost 50 degree difference between outside temp I consider pretty decent.

Do you have the factory pusher fan in front of the condenser...If yes I would swap it for a 12 or 14" you can run when the AC is on..it helps mine a bunch esp. at traffic light....

snoz

I thought it did well also. I have a slow leak so I'll see how long it lasts. It held 29+ in hg for hours but had a slow leak when I pressurized it with nitrogen. It would lose about 5 psi over a 24 hour period. Starting at 55 psi it lost around 10 psi and then stopped there. A friend of mine has a sniffer that I may borrow to try and find the leak.

Mine does have the front fan. I'll look into bigger ones.

-Ethan

The Forgotten On

I installed a 16 inch SPAL SPU-IX-30102048 in my 81. Fits well, moves a lot of air, uses less amps than the stock one too.

It helped my 81 get frigid with R134 and a factory serpentine condenser. You just have to swap the spades in the connector or else it runs backwards lol.