When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've recently purchased a 1986.5 Auto 928, and in the course of doing some research for the kickdown thats not happening, I have discovered that cable is broken, and not connected to the throttle linkage.
Ive looked through the parts list and THINK its 928 423 041 06. I did some searching online and fear this part may be NLA? (Pelican says its NLA).
Anyone know where I can source this? (And if its the correct cable to being with?)
I have the WSM on order, sounds like one of the not fun jobs. But right now Im just trying to source the part.
The cable is missing from the bracket to the throttle linkage. Is repair an option?
Thanks!
Your part number 928 423 041 06 is for 1987 - 1995 928 automatic transmissions. It will not fit your 1986.5 928. The throttle end routing is completely different.
To be honest, looking closer at your photo, I believe you are missing the ball socket end of the cable assembly. It is part number 911 423 147 00, from PET. Auto Atlanta currently lists it for $7.96. As well, you will need the little clip that secures the ball socket onto the ball on the throttle linkage bellcrank. It is part number 900 169 014 01. Auto Atlanta currently lists it for $6.60.
Now...having said all that. I think part of the threaded end of your Bowden cable is broken off:
Please look at the photos from the Bowden cable at the throttle end on my 1986.5 928S:
Also, here is the ball socket with the clip installed:
Before we get too far, grap that little threaded stub on your cable, circled in red in your photo, and give it a pull. See if it comes out some, meets spring resistance, and then stops. If so, it is still connected down in the transmission. And the threaded end can be dealt with. If not, cable will need to be replaced.
Now, I am not able to properly say just which Bowden cable PET specifies for a 1986.5 with an A28.07 4spd automatic. It shows two part numbers as being applicable for the M249 automatic transmission option with the M28.44/45 engines: 928 423 041 02, and 928 423 901 01.
Auto Atlanta shows the 928 423 041 02 as being NLA, but the 928 423 901 01 is listed for $65.09. I am a little suspicious of that, as it seems too cheap.
928 International lists a used 928 423 041 02 for 1985 - 1986 928's for $150. That is not a bad deal. You will also need a new O-ring seal for the transmission end of the Bowden cable, part number 999 701 664 40. Auto Atlanta lists this for $3.12.
Actually, don't rely on me. I am just a nut-job hobbyist who has shoveled WAY too much money into his 928. Contact 928 International or 928's R Us and they will help get you exactly what you need. They are VERY familiar with the Porsche 928 and know what they are doing.
For both 928 International, and 928's R Us, giving them a call is usually a VERY productive exercise, especially if you are not exactly sure what you need.
Thanks for the great response @skpyle !
The cable does pull out and retract so I believe it's still connected at the trans. The threaded end is a little squished so not sure I can salvage it, but it's worth a try. Ill make some calls in the next couple days to the big 3 about a replacement, and report back for future thread searchers.
If I remember correctly, the threaded end of the cable is M5. I would try to run an M5 die or thread chaser down the threads to ensure they are relatively true. Then find an M5 coupling nut, and some M5 all thread. Connect the all thread to the stub of your cable with the coupling nut. You will then need the ball socket and clip. It will take some measuring and interpreting to get the correct length of the all thread, but you should be able to build something up that is the same effective length as the original threaded end.
I would suggest you try this before replacing the Bowden cable. I don't see how you can replace it without lowering the torque tube down from the body.
If I remember correctly, the threaded end of the cable is M5. I would try to run an M5 die or thread chaser down the threads to ensure they are relatively true. Then find an M5 coupling nut, and some M5 all thread. Connect the all thread to the stub of your cable with the coupling nut. You will then need the ball socket and clip. It will take some measuring and interpreting to get the correct length of the all thread, but you should be able to build something up that is the same effective length as the original threaded end.
I would suggest you try this before replacing the Bowden cable. I don't see how you can replace it without lowering the torque tube down from the body.
Good Luck!
over time, I’ve had to replace cables, vacuum tubes strapped to the torque tube without dropping the TT, and without compromise to the strapped object. When you have time, drop the exhaust system, and examine how cables, tubes are strapped to the TT. See what can be done to loosen the straps and lower the part that needs attention. Be aware the there are brittle, plastic guides that cables/things are kept in place with on the TT. Spend a little time studying this, before lowering anything from the TT.
with the exhaust down, separate the cats from the rear tubes and visually examine the cat matrix for breaks/cracks. Use a boroscope to examine from the front. Save the future trouble of wondering if you have a clogged cat while you have the chance to look into it
BTW: dropping the TT and raising it and the trans back into place is a great deal of trouble. IF you go thru that trouble consider replacing your TC bearings/seal, maybe your front piston/pump seals WYAIT. It’s not a replacement for a rebuild but will likely buy time until a rebuild is necessary
To close this thread off, I ended up purchasing the used cable from 928 Intl, as a backup.
I also grabbed the parts from AutoAtlanta, they are indeed M5, 1.00 pitch.
(thanks again @skpyle )
I ran to my local Ace and found an M5 1.0 allthread ($1.29). unfortunately I could not find a coupler, so I got the closest one and tapped it to M5.
The remaining portion of the Bowden cable was too warped to get a die on it,so I drilled out a little bit of the coupler to get as good a mechanical connection as I could to the Bowden cable, and... well... I JB welded it.
I know... I know....
Anyway, its working so far, and as you can imagine, changed the car completely.. there is enough room between the coupler and the ball end for fine adjustments, which Im doing now. When I get to dropping the TT, etc, Ill install the new cable.
It may not be the prettiest repair but it works and lets you drive the car until a proper repair can be made, seems pretty good to me. Also, this isn't a safety critical feature, so way fewer concerns with any jankiness.
05-16-2022, 12:31 AM
Pressure Cable (kickdown cable) source?
