Ball Joints - Again
#1
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Ball Joints - Again
Ball Joint - 2 required 92834104912
Mounting Bracket - 1 left, 1 right 92834109105 & 92834109205
Eccentric - 4 required 92834146600
upper ball joint boot 431407377A
This is the list for a ball joint job. I know I have to do it but damn is this costly. I know I can get away with my stock mounting brackets to keep price down.
I was cruisin 928 Itl.'s website and wow eccentrics at $74.00 a pop with 4 required. Not trying to flame 928 Intl. I love em, but damn $296 for just the little eccentrics.
Somebody please tell me this for a pair.
Any ideas to keep the price down. This is the only repair on the car that pisses me off. It's a required upgrade for 5-600 bucks.
Mounting Bracket - 1 left, 1 right 92834109105 & 92834109205
Eccentric - 4 required 92834146600
upper ball joint boot 431407377A
This is the list for a ball joint job. I know I have to do it but damn is this costly. I know I can get away with my stock mounting brackets to keep price down.
I was cruisin 928 Itl.'s website and wow eccentrics at $74.00 a pop with 4 required. Not trying to flame 928 Intl. I love em, but damn $296 for just the little eccentrics.
Somebody please tell me this for a pair.
Any ideas to keep the price down. This is the only repair on the car that pisses me off. It's a required upgrade for 5-600 bucks.
#2
Nordschleife Master
Buy used at 25 a peice, you only need two, you can reuse the other two. Thus $50 dollars for the ecentrics. They are not what I would concider a wear item, so other than looking not so pretty, there is no reason not to buy used.
That leaves you shelling out about 150 dollars for the ball joints themselves, for a grand total of 200 dollars.
If you can't afford that, you need to sell the car now.
For 500 dollars I'll come pick up your car tomarow. Agreed?
That leaves you shelling out about 150 dollars for the ball joints themselves, for a grand total of 200 dollars.
If you can't afford that, you need to sell the car now.
For 500 dollars I'll come pick up your car tomarow. Agreed?
#3
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Originally posted by ViribusUnits
Buy used at 25 a peice, you only need two, you can reuse the other two. Thus $50 dollars for the ecentrics. They are not what I would concider a wear item, so other than looking not so pretty, there is no reason not to buy used.
That leaves you shelling out about 150 dollars for the ball joints themselves, for a grand total of 200 dollars.
If you can't afford that, you need to sell the car now.
For 500 dollars I'll come pick up your car tomarow. Agreed?
Buy used at 25 a peice, you only need two, you can reuse the other two. Thus $50 dollars for the ecentrics. They are not what I would concider a wear item, so other than looking not so pretty, there is no reason not to buy used.
That leaves you shelling out about 150 dollars for the ball joints themselves, for a grand total of 200 dollars.
If you can't afford that, you need to sell the car now.
For 500 dollars I'll come pick up your car tomarow. Agreed?
$200 I can afford. I can take 200-300 at a time, but 500-600 at a time scares me a little. You think you make it FL by tomorrow? Nah, I'll hold onto it.
#4
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You can also get the good used steel ball joints from 928 intl for 1/2 price. I don't think the steel joints ever fail so this is a reasonable thing to do.
#5
Rez,
I just installed the used eccentrics and steel carrier/balljoints on Pattycakes
,inexpensive and very tight.
They come pretty clean but a little wire brush, WD-40, green pad work makes them look as good as new.There is an ongoing battle of wits concerning replacement of the eccentric clamps due to different length of the studs, and smooth shank area of the studs. THE ALUMINUM CARRIER IS MUCH THICKER!
Your money, your sHARk, your call...
I just installed the used eccentrics and steel carrier/balljoints on Pattycakes
,inexpensive and very tight.
They come pretty clean but a little wire brush, WD-40, green pad work makes them look as good as new.There is an ongoing battle of wits concerning replacement of the eccentric clamps due to different length of the studs, and smooth shank area of the studs. THE ALUMINUM CARRIER IS MUCH THICKER!
Your money, your sHARk, your call...
#6
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Technically you dont need new brackets - just the old ones will leave some thread hanging out below the net as the steel joint is thinner. If you are worried, cut the extra off. The only difference in the brackets is the bolt length.
jp 83 EuroS AT 47k , BTDT.
jp 83 EuroS AT 47k , BTDT.
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#9
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I don't know Virabus (sic), with your're (sic) (no pun intended) spelling you might end up in Alamgorda, FLORDA, tomara. Have a good trip, but I'd ship that baby if it still has al carriers, so you have to add that to the price.
#11
FWIW,
Yeah, there is any number of real reasons to replace the aluminum carriers.
There have been enough post's with the sad wreckage/remains of a trashed sHARk or a series of "this is what my aluminum carrier/balljoint assy' looked like when I pulled it for inspection.
However, these were not the rule! I pulled and replaced mine because of an uncommanded turn situation. The steering rack is immaculate, not so much as a weep. all the steering knuckles are tight, the steering shaft knuckle is also flawless, though I personally think that the angle is to tight it is as proscribed by the WSM/Porsche.
In my case I thought it had to be the carriers/joints. They were, in fact, like new -96,000 on the clock- with no flat spots, cracks, slop.
The car lived in California between San Francisco and San Diego till 3 years ago. Salt would naturally be a corrosive suspect but turned out not to be a culprit. I now have the replacement joint/carriers installed but am no closer to finding the cause of my sHARk suddenly wandering off on its own...
Again, this is not a recommendation for putting off the swap -Your number might be next- .
It is a cheap, permanent fix
Yeah, there is any number of real reasons to replace the aluminum carriers.
There have been enough post's with the sad wreckage/remains of a trashed sHARk or a series of "this is what my aluminum carrier/balljoint assy' looked like when I pulled it for inspection.
However, these were not the rule! I pulled and replaced mine because of an uncommanded turn situation. The steering rack is immaculate, not so much as a weep. all the steering knuckles are tight, the steering shaft knuckle is also flawless, though I personally think that the angle is to tight it is as proscribed by the WSM/Porsche.
In my case I thought it had to be the carriers/joints. They were, in fact, like new -96,000 on the clock- with no flat spots, cracks, slop.
The car lived in California between San Francisco and San Diego till 3 years ago. Salt would naturally be a corrosive suspect but turned out not to be a culprit. I now have the replacement joint/carriers installed but am no closer to finding the cause of my sHARk suddenly wandering off on its own...
Again, this is not a recommendation for putting off the swap -Your number might be next- .
It is a cheap, permanent fix
#12
Rez, You might also scour Ebay for used ball jts. There`s usually somebody scrapeing out a wreaked 928. I was lucky and found a set with very low miles on them from a guy in Texas. He threw in the two eccentrics and I used the stock brackets. Be sure to put 928 ball jts in the serch box. I put 928 parts and the ball jts I bought were not listed, hope this helps. Toof
#13
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Toof--
Search is a wonderful tool. We strongly recommend its use. Recognize though that you are responding to a thread that's almost four years old.
Welcome to Rennlist!
Search is a wonderful tool. We strongly recommend its use. Recognize though that you are responding to a thread that's almost four years old.
Welcome to Rennlist!