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I am desperately looking for a procedure to install the Superclamp on 928 GTS -93. I have a dream that this could be done without totally removing the transmission & stuff. Can I find advice somewhere?
It is just about impossible to install the Super Clamp in your GTS without dropping the torque tube and transmission.
If there is no need to drop the torque tube and transmission for other service, you can instead install a Ritech Clamp being sold by Roger at 928sRus. This clamp can be installed by just dropping the front bell housing cover. This device was designed to also stop the drive shaft movement at the front flex plate, however it works a bit differently than the Super Clamp. Suggest to contact Roger who can advise you further on this product.
Thanks for your quick answers. As you can see from the picture of my garage area, there is very little rush to get the car ready at the moment. So I keep going slow and try not to break too much while i remove the transmission and rear axle. There are many youtube videos for the procedure, which seems to be inevitable . Happy to notice that Fred has quite similar vehicle just a few hours south from here.
Happy to notice that Fred has quite similar vehicle just a few hours south from here.
Just got back from my evening walk - it was freezing outside- somewhere around 23C!
I have a superclamp waiting to go on and was under the car a few weeks ago contemplating the effort necessary to complete the conversion trying to fathom out whether i want to fit it this cool season. I figured I would defer such a further year when I am thinking of pulling the engine to premptively change out the head gaskets before they and the heads rot.
If my dear friend Constantine reckons it cannot be done with the transaxle in situ then chances are his advice will be spot on. Even if it could be slid backwards sufficently by the time you have got to the point where it could be moved a few inches you are probably only 4 bolts away from being able to drop the rear cross member. It seems quite intimidating but I reckon it is not all that difficult if you have someone to assist and something adequate to take the weight and roll the assembly away as it were. I also figured that dropping the fuel tank first would be a good idea as it creates lots of room back there.
Gee, we have similar cars, similar challenges and almost similar weather. Only that we tend to have -23C.
My friend Erkka demands that I also replace the head gaskets and make all the necessary improvements to the engine. But I’m trying to survive now by replacing the worst sources of fire first, like gasoline hoses from Greg and power steering hose protectors. Erkka's GTS has been standing on jacks since 2009, so I need to avoid that path with the car.
Gee, we have similar cars, similar challenges and almost similar weather. Only that we tend to have -23C.
My friend Erkka demands that I also replace the head gaskets and make all the necessary improvements to the engine. But I’m trying to survive now by replacing the worst sources of fire first, like gasoline hoses from Greg and power steering hose protectors. Erkka's GTS has been standing on jacks since 2009, so I need to avoid that path with the car.
Erkka is very knowledgable and will doubtless guide you well as will this list. If the head gaskets are the original factory items chances are you should change them out. I have tried to advise the list why the head corrosion problem happens but there is a degree of unpredictability about the issue. Even so I work on the premise that once the gaskets have been in there for 20 years it is time to get them out of there and inspect what if any damage has taken place. My 90 S4 motor was perfect after 15 years and now some 17 years on I figure it will need one more intervention to see me through my days and changing them whilst I am still capable of doing so is probably a good idea.
My head gaskets have been renewed once and have now seen 22 years and 105 tkm. The car has driven 220 tkm. I plan to give them one more year. There is quite enough other items to work on before pulling the engine out.
Thanks for your quick answers. As you can see from the picture of my garage area, there is very little rush to get the car ready at the moment. So I keep going slow and try not to break too much while i remove the transmission and rear axle. There are many youtube videos for the procedure, which seems to be inevitable . Happy to notice that Fred has quite similar vehicle just a few hours south from here.
Juha:
Just like Southern California....
I've really enjoyed your book about Porsches in Finland.
Thanks so much, for the book.
I've used both the Constantine clamp (many), the Ritech Clamp (one), a supplemental clamp (originally from Porken), which I've used (many times) as a temporary repair until the transmission or torque tube shaft had to be removed for some reason, and have changed the torque tube shafts to the 25mm design (with the front circlip groove and by using the factory shims, the special washer, and the circlip.) (On cars with with the 28mm shaft, like yours, the torque tube shaft must be replaced. On cars with the 25mm shaft, the circlip groove already exists.)
The factory circlip design is my favorite, when it is possible and I do this whenever possible.
The downside to Constantine's excellent clamp is that the transmission and torque tube need to be removed. (Unless you want to cut a "slot" in the front bell housing, which I never do.)
The downside to the Ritech clamp is that the super hard pieces that touch the torque tube shaft will wear a groove in the shaft. (The shaft has built in harmonics and this causes the wear at the super hard pieces.) I consider this to be a "stress riser" and personally do not like this. (I left my one Ritech clamp installed for about 10,000 miles, saw this wear, removed the clamps and replaced the torque tube shaft , for the client.....it is still sitting on my desk.)
The downside to the circlip (in your case) is that you will need a 25mm shaft and 25mm bearings. (Depending on the age of your bearings, you may want to change them, anyway. And I don't "trust" the 28mm shafts beyond ~100,000 miles....I've seen too many broken 28mm shafts.)
For this approach, the engine and transmission also need to be removed....and some basic math is required to get the correct amount of shims.
If you can find a good used 25mm shaft, in Finland, I suggest you do this. (I make 25mm shafts out of 300M, but I'm guessing it would cost a bunch to get one to you.)
Torque Tube bearings are made in Europe and should be easy for you to get.
Replacement "late model" damper (likely to be lose in the torque tube) rubbers are available from Porsche, as well as the shims, washer, and circlip.
Greg, nice that the book has been interesting. Pretty interesting race history with Finns with Porsche. I specially liked the drag race tuned 911 that beat all US muscle rockets.
My car has had its torque tube and bearings renewed 19 years and 90 tkm ago by Porsche. But I believe it is still the original 28 mm shaft. I will soon find out when I get the tube off. I have Constantines Super Clamp sitting on the table and waiting to get in. I brought it as hand luggage. The safety inspector wanted to know which Porsche model it was going to . I started to list the VIN number and he was happy.
Greg, nice that the book has been interesting. Pretty interesting race history with Finns with Porsche. I specially liked the drag race tuned 911 that beat all US muscle rockets.
My car has had its torque tube and bearings renewed 19 years and 90 tkm ago by Porsche. But I believe it is still the original 28 mm shaft. I will soon find out when I get the tube off. I have Constantines Super Clamp sitting on the table and waiting to get in. I brought it as hand luggage. The safety inspector wanted to know which Porsche model it was going to . I started to list the VIN number and he was happy.
You can't go wrong with a Constantine Clamp. Great product! And you can use your relatively fresh torque tube, also!
Hopefully your shop has a heater and this job will be a nice, warm, winter task.
Some progress here. I detached the rear axle and transmission and let it hang on threaded rods.
The rear axle cross member lowered by some 5 cm. All cables and hoses were detached from the transmission as well.
I took the drive plate off to get enough space to remove the clamp.
The Super Clamp fit in nicely.
The drive plate was removed just to find out that it was broken!
Yikes! Looks like that flex pate was put through some stresses.
Also great ingenuity in not dropping out the trans/TT assembly to put in the Super Clamp. I am always surprised by owner's tenacity in completing maintenance tasks not "by the book" or WSMs in this instance.
Hopefully you will find a replacement flex plate in your area in short order.
Now you understand why Cobalt Blue is the only 928 colour worth having- had it been any other colour you would not have been able to do it without dropping the transaxle completely. Now the cat is out of the bag all the 928 punters will want Cobalt Blue- should be good for residuals!
The flex plate crack is a bit of a bummer but that is not the first flex plate to do that. Was the clamp slipping previously by 3mm or so? If so did you notice an unpleasant vibration at 3050 rpms?
02-06-2022, 07:46 AM
Installing Superclamp on 928 GTS?
. Happy to notice that Fred has quite similar vehicle just a few hours south from here.
. I started to list the VIN number and he was happy.
