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I am trying to remove the top starter bolt which seems to be buggered. I can engage my allen wrench stub only to about half the depth compared to the bottom bolt after cleaning out the grime inside the bolt head. And, of course, the top half has been wallowed out by a previous ham-fisted mechanic so what does engage is very sloppy. I need a way to hammer in the allen stub but I can't get behind it to force it deeper into the bolt head.
Is there any way I can ease the bolt out while I put some pressure on the back of the stub of my allen wrench? Would heating the bolt head first make it any more likely to break free with less force needed? I don't want to cause more damage to the bolt head so I thought I'd ask for tips before I have another go at it. Is dremeling off the bolt head and then using an extractor on the bolt stub the best way to go? I don't think there is room enough to apply the extractor directly to the bolt head in-situ. And I don't want to snap the bolt and open that can of worms. Why couldn't that mechanic put the bad bolt on the bottom???
Any ideas?
Last edited by jschiller; Jan 31, 2022 at 05:52 PM.
Reason: resolved, got the SOB out
I'm thinking I'll heat the bolt head first, maybe some of the heat will transfer down to the threads and make it a bit easier to break free. Then grab the head with a long handled vise grips and try to manhandle it out of there. That won't disturb the hex end if it doesn't work. I don't know after that. Maybe wrap the allen wrench in a strip of aluminum foil to get it to engage a bit tighter.
put the bottom bolt back in and tighten it,
get a dremel and cut a slot into the side of the upper bolt about 1 MM deep.
Take a chisel and put it into the slot , strike it to loosen the bolt,
it should come free.
You may have to put another slot into the bolt.
This would be my next suggestion if the Torx doesn't work, I had to do this on some S4 Brake Calipers to remove the 4 small allen bolts that hold the brake shoe slides on the calipers
If all that doesn't work, you could tack weld the allen wrench to it so It can't slip out as you're exerting force onto it, then replace your allen wrench and the bolt.
If all that doesn't work, you could tack weld the allen wrench to it so It can't slip out as you're exerting force onto it, then replace your allen wrench and the bolt.
Welding in that area? I know you love those Allen bolts
Welding in that area? I know you love those Allen bolts
Yes you do. I'm loving one right now, and it's not even a small one and at the complete other end of the car.
I use socket cap Allen bolts frequently as they're often easier to get odd angles access to with a ball end Allen tool. Of course when I replace them they are usually stainless and go in with anti_seize since I'm the one that's going to take them out next time (note lower bell housing bolts), but I don't replace them with stainless in high strength applications like starters or seat bolts as you can see my starter bolts are the regular ones.
Last edited by Petza914; Jan 31, 2022 at 01:57 PM.
Yes you do. I'm loving one right now, and it's not even a small one and at the complete other end of the car.
I use socket cap Allen bolts frequently as they're often easier to get odd angles access to with a ball end Allen tool. Of course when I replace them they are usually stainless and go in with anti_seize since I'm the one that's going to take them out next time (note lower bell housing bolts), but I don't replace them with stainless in high strength applications like starters or seat bolts as you can see my starter bolts are the regular ones.
The problem is us experienced wrenchers know what sizes are for every job. When confronted by non standard application of allen bolts it's a PITA. Would never make it in a Porsche concours judging under the hood. Oem bolts with anti-seize is good enough for me.
Last edited by buccicone; Jan 31, 2022 at 04:52 PM.
The problem is us experienced wrenchers know what sizes are for every job. When confronted by non standard application of allen bolts it's a PITA. Would never make it in a Porsche concours judging under the hood. Oem bolts with anti-seize is good enough for me.
I'm pretty sure the lack of a roof, supercharger, 911 seats, rear wing, etc are going to cause more issues in the Concours judging than the socket cap screws - LOL. But that's OK, I build my cars for my enjoyment, not for the judges scorecard.
Got the SOB out. Heated the crap out of the head, then cut a slot in the side as Stan suggested. Wacked it with a chisel a few times then tried the allen wrench again. It froke free and spun right out.
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Top Starter Bolt is Buggered -- Solved
. Maybe wrap the allen wrench in a strip of aluminum foil to get it to engage a bit tighter.
