GregBBRD

An 044 fuel pump has much higher amperage requirements than the stock fuel pump.
We found out when using this pump (many years ago) that the stock wiring, relay, and fuel pump fuse were not capable of supporting the current draw from these pumps.

We've been adding an additional fuse and relay for the 044 pumps in the rear of the vehicles, since the very first pump we installed.
The current draw is so high that we initially had a couple of failures of fuse holders and relays and were forced to locate and use super high quality pieces.
This has, very likely, been done to your vehicle.
Your stock relay is likely just triggering a another relay.
Look in the spare tire area...especially under the black plastic cover which protects the wiring, in this area.

AA996

Thanks Dave, I will try wiggling the wire. I ordered a new CPS this morning as I do not know when Andrew last had the CPS changed, if at all. Even if it’s not the culprit it’s a peace of mind item. Looking at some of the Rennlist posts on CPS removal I’m really hopeful mine comes out with little drama.

I really appreciate your input and advice.

AA996

Greg, is the in-tank pump on the same circuit as the external pump? I had the car out yesterday, drove to Jupiter & back for lunch, then picked up my daughter from school and went through the drive-thru at Chik fil A before going home (in other words, heat soaked). About a block from the house, it stumbled and quit. Attempts to start we’re such that it was wanting to start but just wasn’t getting the fuel. 10 minutes later, it starts, clears it’s throat, and drives off like nothing happened. I believe you’re right, the culprit may be the in-tank pump as I could hear the external pump loudly when I turned the key on to start.

worf928

Are you sure? I mean, really really sure?

As I posted above…

The fuel pump relay is NOT activated by the key. It is activated by the LH after the EZK detects non-zero engine speed and tells the LH to ‘begin fueling.’

If your fuel pump operates when you turn on the key then

a) Your LH has failed

or

b) Someone has rewired your fuel pump relay

or

c) ‘b’ because of ‘a’

You’ll want to chase that down. If b or c, then this bozo wiring is likely your problem.

worf928

When you turn on your key the PSD may operate for 2-5 seconds then quit. It is located in the driver’s side rear wheel well.

Are you certain that you are hearing the fuel pump and not the PSD pump?

DHS928

Do all years have a pump in the tank?

worf928

‘89 to ‘95.

And the very early ones. Exactly which early ones I don’t recall. IIRC all the CIS cars.

AA996

At this point I’m not sure of anything. Except for sure the pump is running, it’s coming from the fuel tank area, and it’s louder when the car is hot. I can hear it plainly from the drivers seat. I read the other thread where the LH was giving problems, at this point the pump, CPS, and LH are still all in play. For nothing more than my satisfaction I will order one of Greg’s hose kits for the in-tank pump. CPS is ordered and I’m using the ATF/acetone mix on the old one right now. I will also trace the wiring on the fuel pump as I’m curious as to if there’s another relay back there.

Mrmerlin

before you order parts you would be smart to see if you have an intank pump to start with.

remove the fuel pump cover,
then see if you have 2 wires connected to the outlet of the tank

AA996

Mr. Merlin, funny you should mention that, I just came from my garage where I was looking at the fuel pump - no in-tank fuel pump!!



However here’s the Bosch 44 fuel pump…





And the most pleasant surprise, my Crank Position Sensor came out by hand, no lube required!!





I also found a few vacuum lines that were cracked and loose, I’ll be replacing those. And I’ll be looking for another fuel pump relay in the back.

AA996

Okay, I think I found the second relay for the fuel pump. It’s now replaced with a new one.

worf928

Not quite. Mostly all stock stuff - that’s visible(*) Except for the leads that dive under the cover for the spare. Keep digging.

(*) Specifically the lead attached to the battery cable and what is directly above it in your picture. That stuff is add-on. All the rest is stock.

AA996

Dave, will do, headed out in a bit. I’ll report back.

Mrmerlin

NOTE you do need a new supply short hose from the strainer outlet to the pump inlet,

Please put the original relay back into that position in the tool tray well ,
its for the rear wiper delay and park ,
no telling what might happen with the wrong relay installed.

AA996

Wow, you have sharp eyes. I did put the original relay back on the rear wiper after this picture was taken. No sign of a second relay for the fuel pump though. I traced the wires coming off the battery and none end up at a relay. The extra ground wire at the strap is for an amplifier in the spare tire well. And I’ll certainly get a new hose, thanks.