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Need to drive the car to settle the front and get some outside pics in the sun where the machined faces will pop, but they're on and I think they look great. Inner barrels are finished in matching color and wheels are ceramic coated inside and out.
Front needs settling Rears now have good clearance and shouldn't rub on large bumps anymore Inside clearance at rear fenders
wheels lookin good! It needs to be lowered a lot, imo. The rear is at least 1 inch too high and the front looks like there is no engine in it. I know it needs to settle but still will need to be lowered and it will look much better.
wheels lookin good! It needs to be lowered a lot, imo. The rear is at least 1 inch too high and the front looks like there is no engine in it. I know it needs to settle but still will need to be lowered and it will look much better.
Front perches are only about 3 threads from the bottom. Need to drive it before I go any further. That's about the same height the Spyder is set at. Back may look different once the front comes down too so we'll see. Now that I have figured out the air-hammer trick to spin the collars on the shocks, it's really not a big deal to make adjustments.
when you have a lift but prefer to work on your knees.....
LOL.
As you saw in the previous posts, I was doing a bunch of interior electrical work prior to the wheel swap. No need to move out the one car, lower the lift, move that one off the lift, put the other one on the lift just to swap wheels.
When I get to painting the calipers and replacing the brakes and resealing the transmission pan I'll do the musical cars thing.
Just received this picture of the completed 991 dyed seats. Look phenomenal. Big shout out to Eric Moss with Fibrenew of the Carolinas for the work he did on these for me turning them from beige to black. If anyone in the Carolinas needs upholstery renovated, dyed, fixed, Eric does phenomenal work and I highly recommend him. He even used some steam to minimize some wrinkles and a dent that were in the seats when I acquired them.
Drove the car to lunch today to heat up the fluids for the transmission, torque converter, and differential fluid change.
Front settled a fair amount with the new spring perch heights. I'll give it another 50 miles or so to see if it comes down further (still high for my taste) and if not, do a couple more turns on them, but looks much better. I'm happy with how the rear sits.
Wanted to get some pics out in the sun anyway. I'm very pleased with the overall look and effect.
yes, looks nice !
I find the ride height OK... mine is also that way.
I don't understand "lower" , as you are than almost scraping the sump over the road. Unless a billiards flat track
Tackling the leaking transmission now. Using the lift for this one to make Barry happy
Got all 6 bolts out and the reservoir removed and then discovered the last guy to do this job thought sealant on the pan to gasket and gasket to transmission was a good idea as that sucker was glued on there good. Took a fair amount of tugging on various corners with a pick in the gap at the corners before I could get one to release and get the pan down.
So the torque converter and trans has been draining all night and I cleaned up all the old sealant from the pan and trans so it's ready to go back together, but going to shoot some paint on the bottom of the pan first for aesthetics.
A nice view of the sealant used the last time and why the pan was anchored in place with the 6 bolts removed
Sealant remnants on the trans too. Luckily it looks like a thick brad wasn't used so don't think excess squished inward and didn't have any break free inside the trans.
Going in for the first pass in the heated ultrasonic
Put in brand new fluid to clean it up. Did a first pass to get rid of the oiliness then removed all the leftover sealant, then a second pass and through flush with water to remove any detergent. You can see the crud starting to lift as I flicked on the ultrasonic generator
Now have a spotless pan and reservoir to work with
And a spotless perimeter on the trans to mate it to with the new gasket and new filter installed.
One question.... Does the torque converter refill itself from the transmission reservoir or is there a separate fill for that?
While I'm under there I'm planning to change the rear differential fluid too, but tried to undo the fill plug last night and even with a breaker bar it wouldn't move. Going to try and heat it with a torch to see if maybe it got installed with red loctite or something. Won't drain it unless I can get the fill plug out.
Painted the belly pan and the trans pan so they'd look nicer
Ready to fill with my modified Motive Pressure Brake bleeder that I'm using as a delivery system for the ATF. I added a cutoff valve mid line and a 90 degree fitting on the end. This one will stay dedicated to this Driven AT3 ATF fluid and why it's labelled as such
Pan and reservoir reinstalled and properly cross-torwued to 5.9 ft.lbs.
Filling her up. Hung the Motive from the suspension spring, used one hand to hold the end in the reservoir opening, and the other to work the petcock. Other than having to close the valve and depressurize, and stop to add more fluid and depressurize, it worked great
90 degree end fitting to shoot the fluid into the reservoir opening.
Repainted belly pan installed
Took about 5 10 second starts topping up the reservoir after each one before the fluid level in the reservoir stabilized. Then shifted it through all the gears multiple times, topped up after each time, then took it for a drive and topped it up a final time.
Torque converter still had a tiny weep, but so far the perimeter of the trans pan is dry. Even if it leaks, I've significantly slowed the leak speed and probably the only thing that would fix it is a new $900 pan, but won't buy one of those and would probably use that money toward a new GB Swissgesr trans instead since that's 20% of the cost.
Onto the rear differential which isn't going well because the fill plug won't come out no matter what I do.
No red drips under the car overnight - first time since I've owned it - yeah!
Since I can't go further with the rear diff fluid, I decided to install a new black aluminum MOMO shift **** I bought. Didn't really like the hydro dipped carbon T-handle that was in the car since there's no other carbon fiber trim anywhere. Scoured the internet for a long time trying to find one I liked. Kind of wanted one with a front trigger where you'd pull with two fingwrs to release the button. On this car, because it has the kickdown relay installed that's activated by the shifter button, how the driver interfaces with the release button is a lite more important than on an auto that you just push the button to put it into Drive or Park.
Found some Audi shifters that looked like what I wanted, but found out the Audi button is on the side, not the top, then found this solid black aluminum MOMO **** that you just push down to depress the top button - simple, elegant, good looking, and easy to activate when the shifter is in drive for the kickdown.
Had to bore out the mounting collar to 5/8" and be careful not to drill too deep or I'd drill through the top threaded collar that allows the **** push down mechanism to work, but didnthat successfully. It secured to the shaft with 8 screws instead of the normal 4 so it's really solid and those are all covered by the bottom collar, which also holds the leather shift boot.
Couple more drives on it since the last photos and the front has settled down a bit more. I'll do a couple.more then take some measurements, but probably won't lower it further unless one side is higher and then I'll lower that side to match the other, but it looks pretty good to my eye.
01-24-2022, 04:13 PM
