Temp sensor
#46
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I was able to determine it is the Hall sensor that is on the right cam gear housing, My engine would not run because of the belt tension wire is damaged, that is a single wire near the belt tensioner.
#47
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The idea is that if the alarm triggers one should get the belt tension checked at a service centre- it is not a "call a tow truck" or "go have a nervous breakdown because you have 32 bent valves" moment!
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Kevin in Atlanta (12-02-2021)
#48
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OK, so it is not stopping the car from starting, there is something in my right engine harness that must cause an intermittent problem, because moving it around lets the engine run.
#49
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The CPS connector fell apart in my hands as I tried to fathom out how to release it- that solved that problem! I was also astonished to find out that the Hall sensor connector had failed previously so that must have been 17 years earlier before I acquired the GTS yet it was still functioning correctly so no need to bin the Hall sensor just because the connector fails albeit replacement can never be a bad idea just the cost of the unit.
I used brand new connectors throughout and made completely new pigtails for the injectors- the connectors being of the easy release type. This type of connector created a spacial problem for the MAF arrangement and I had to make a brand new and somehat longer pig tail arrangement so that I could re-orientate the routing with a bigger radius and straighter approach. I reckon that MAF connection is the most fragile loom on the car as the stock MAF pigtail bends through a very tight 180 degree arc- no longer the case with mine and that can easily cuase problems if corrupted.
I was fortunate in that i had a spare but partially damaged harness from my late S4- this enabled me to pirate some cables with the correct colours that were in good nick. For the injector pigtails I used straight red and black colour cables. For the ISV connector I also fitted a male/female arrangement outboard of the inlet manifold to facilitate release- previously i omitted the securing clip on the connector- never had a problem wiht it slipping off. Also, with the easy release connector I can now easily release the 3 pin connector for the idle/full throttle switch. I also have a spare harness with two computer plugs stil intact but the cabling only goes as far as the back of the engine- and that is easy to rebuild. I also found the earth cables needed a bit of fettling.
I also concluded tha tif one wants to rebuild the harness in-situ one needs to get the inlet manifold out of the way- no problem as i had planned for that as I wanted to tidy up my home brew breather piping mods.