Mrmerlin

NOTE the more info you provide and the details surrounding what was happening,
will let the troubleshooters have a better idea of what to suggest for a solution.
NOTE pictures also are a big bonus


UMM what relay did you put in and what location was it?

What do you find when you run the test in post 13?
Are All 4 relays doing a click?
did you check the fuel pump fuse?

DHS928

Merlin,
Well I had already left the hanger when your recommendation was posted, that will get done this afternoon. Question the X bus not sure what that does? The other relays are new and I have power to them with a test light. Fuel pump runs got 56psi on the rail when I jumped it that should cover the fuse (there all new).
Not sure what photo would help.
Had power at the low pressure switch but not the clutch, Kevin had me check the 12 pin connector #9 and no connectivity to the low pressure switch, so I ran a jumper from the switch to a relay powered by the jump post and then to the AC clutch.

[img]blob:https://rennlist.com/d1af59a5-867f-4c4b-a103-956222b575a8[/img]

Dan Serrato

DHS928

The relay for AC compressor.



From eBay

Under the jump post

Mrmerlin

why are you adding a relay to run the compressor??
whats the purpose of this to test?
has the HVAC head unit relay been replaced?
did you check the power at the freeze switch?


NOTE adding new RUNNING/STARTING relays doesnt mean they are working.
please perform that suggested test.

Critical you print off a CE panel diagram and have it infront of you while swapping relays
NOTE the arrows that ID each location change position along the lower row
NOTE this might be too late,
take a picture of the CE panel before you touch it.

BTW this engine bay is in need of an intake refresh,
with the peeling PC and corroded sensors its time to take it apart and fix everything,
Ima bet the hall sensors the Knock sensors and the CPS are in need of repair

DHS928

The AC controller was sent out and the small internal relay replaced, power made it to the Low Pressure Switch on the bottom of the drier. But not to the clutch, so I ran a wire to the clutch from the LPS and it worked so I knew the problem was in the front harness. So I needed to bypass that part of the loom so why not take the load off the AC internal small relay and shift it to a robust relay that’s only function is to power the clutch.
Yes a top refresh is planed, I planed on that just trying to see what needs sorting out by driving it.

DHS928

I did this when I got the car in May, Rich said do this.



Done one at a time.

Mrmerlin

So if you have power to the freeze switch then to the low pressure switch but not out then the system is low on refrigerant,
and the relay isnt needed, adding refrigerant is needed? Did I miss something?
Put a 3 amp fuse inline with the wire at the freeze switch to protect the HVAC relay.
BUT why are you fixing the AC system when the intake needs to be refreshed?
Is the compressor seized?
it looks like the system has been converted to R 134.this could spell trouble based on how well the last mechanic did the conversion.

That labeling makes things easy ,
did you confirm that you have the correct relay part # in the correct slot?
X bus is relay IV

DHS928

OK, we tested the AC when I first got the car, my A&P mechanic had all the gauges and we hooked the clutch directly to the jump post. It still had pressure and was blowing cool in the car, we added R-12 and it got cold. So that is when I started trying to get the AC back on line. Was advised that the AC controller relay was a common failure because of the power draw by the compressor. So I sent the controller off to be rebuilt and started tracing wires, that is when I was laying on the engine a few weeks ago trying to test the wires to the freeze switch. Another poster on that thread recommended the relay dedicated to just the AC compressor. So my system is holding pressure is topped up with R-12 and will not crank! Found one bad wire.
Now back to that, tonight all four relays will honk the horn, it is the fuel pump relay that does not click. If I put in my jumper relay the #42 fuse is hot and the pump runs.
Those relays were labeled one at a time.

Dan Serrato

Mrmerlin

OK please replace the starter relay, top center. this should cure the wont crank issue.

NOTE the engine must be cranking before the fuel pump turns on.

NOTE also check the 14 pin connector as laying on the engine could have disturbed the wires.

NOTE a hot fuse means it is not making solid contact and will soon melt the surrounding plastic,
use deoxit 100 and a fresh fuse.

NOTE if the blades dont have enough friction then you can add some solder to the blade, otherwise replace the fuse slots

OK so the system was not converted from R 12? that red cap looked like a cap for the R 134 refrigerant

Kevin in Atlanta

I saw this car before all the additional AC wiring was added. Ran like a champ.

I would start by backing out all the AC wiring. Even though it makes no sense it would lead to this issue.

DHS928

See Kevin maybe I should have used the horn wire to run the compressor!! (inside joke)

Also my-bad “hot fuse” I meant it had power not an overheating issue.

DHS928

OK, the fuel injector plug shows 12v with the key on. So the next test is the injector plug to #18 on the big cable that goes on the LH. If that is good then what?

Mrmerlin

before any more testing its time for an Intake refresh,
right now your testing worn out components looking to put a bandaid on something.
Based on Kevins report and the pictures presented,
the top item to do here is an intake refresh.
Maybe Kevin can help you with that.

DHS928

Well i drove this car and put it on the rack, and do not see what is stopping it from running. I want to solve that problem before i pullthe top of the engine off. And for a refresh i would like to have all the parts here already.

FredR

You certainly need to ascertain why the injectors are not firing irrespective of any other issues that need resolution especially if it was running well recent history wise. I seem to recall you felt your LH unit was working OK but you may want to ensure that is the case. i had a case earleir tis year where Ihad a starting problem, changed over LH units, it ws working then it was not- turned out the LH had failed and the background sounds very similar to what you are experiencing.