Removing pistons without pulling engine
11-09-2021, 06:40 PM
#61
no I have not done any full throttle check.
please elaborate when you get a chance Greg.
11-10-2021, 06:14 AM
#62
Rennlist Member
Robert,
You appear to making progress and that is promising. Ignition timing is a somewhat simplistic affair on your MY and if you have 26 degrees of advance you should be in good shape in that department. If your cams are in the correct position with No1 on firing stroke then they are indexed correctly. I presume the 16V single cam motors have a cam timing procedure albeit different to the 32 valve models that I am familiar with. There is a window of cam timing wherein the motor can be timed differently so as to slightly favour either top end delivery or bottom end torque but once the timing changes by more than about 10 degrees the performance drops off a cliff as it were- thus why you were advised that the belt being a tooth or two out should [normally] be obvious..
Taking resistance values for HT leads tells you something about the conducter but nothing about the insulation resistance. If a megger test is possible that might indicate a problem. Not sure what the state of play is on your MY but on the later models the HT leads from the coil to the distributor seem a bit more fickle but even so I rate the job lot as being good for about 20 years and then at some point the insulation resistance breaks down and they leak to earth- such can sometimes be seen by running the car in a pitch black location and then looking for "the dancing fairies" as the HT leaks to earth.
Hopefully GB will guide you some on the CIS evaluation- I know absolutely squat about it but I do know it can be problemmatical.
A wideband O2 sensor is also a very helpful analytical tool but you would need to weld a bung into the exhaust manifold to mount such -they are usually included in the kit such as the Innovate system i use- you can also use them to mount a cabin gauge for real time monitoring. As indicated already you also need to ensure the throttle plate is opening fully when the pedal is fully depressed- easy enough to check. Similarly you also need to ensure fuel flow and pressure are correct, fuel strainer is clear and the fuel filter is not bunged up.
Given your posted 0 to 60 time you should also check to ensure your handbrake is not jammed on!
You appear to making progress and that is promising. Ignition timing is a somewhat simplistic affair on your MY and if you have 26 degrees of advance you should be in good shape in that department. If your cams are in the correct position with No1 on firing stroke then they are indexed correctly. I presume the 16V single cam motors have a cam timing procedure albeit different to the 32 valve models that I am familiar with. There is a window of cam timing wherein the motor can be timed differently so as to slightly favour either top end delivery or bottom end torque but once the timing changes by more than about 10 degrees the performance drops off a cliff as it were- thus why you were advised that the belt being a tooth or two out should [normally] be obvious..
Taking resistance values for HT leads tells you something about the conducter but nothing about the insulation resistance. If a megger test is possible that might indicate a problem. Not sure what the state of play is on your MY but on the later models the HT leads from the coil to the distributor seem a bit more fickle but even so I rate the job lot as being good for about 20 years and then at some point the insulation resistance breaks down and they leak to earth- such can sometimes be seen by running the car in a pitch black location and then looking for "the dancing fairies" as the HT leaks to earth.
Hopefully GB will guide you some on the CIS evaluation- I know absolutely squat about it but I do know it can be problemmatical.
A wideband O2 sensor is also a very helpful analytical tool but you would need to weld a bung into the exhaust manifold to mount such -they are usually included in the kit such as the Innovate system i use- you can also use them to mount a cabin gauge for real time monitoring. As indicated already you also need to ensure the throttle plate is opening fully when the pedal is fully depressed- easy enough to check. Similarly you also need to ensure fuel flow and pressure are correct, fuel strainer is clear and the fuel filter is not bunged up.
Given your posted 0 to 60 time you should also check to ensure your handbrake is not jammed on!
11-10-2021, 05:01 PM
#64
The throttle plate is fully opened when the pedal is pressed..
I can redline the engine when in neutral.