Input on heater core manual valve
09-06-2021, 02:40 PM
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
09-06-2021, 03:00 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
09-06-2021, 03:53 PM
#33
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I wonder if the uneven cooling would have a pumping effect? Also easy to test by running the defroster with the engine off, coolant hot, and then letting it sit for a few minutes to see if the coolant reheats.
09-06-2021, 03:56 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
if you can find a way to isolate it from the warm firewall..maybe, but again, hot water that cant rise because cold water cant sink is fairly simple to understand.
09-06-2021, 08:16 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Convection current is how the earliest car radiators worked, the Ford Model T engine had no water pump. As the water in the engine heated it rose to the top and the radiator water is pulled into the engine through the lower hose as the hot flows to the top of the radiator. This set up a convection current in the engine that worked fine for the 12 hp that the engine made. That principle still holds true for modern engines. When the car is off the stats open and that same current flows through the engine/radiator, certainly it does not flow anywhere as fast as when the pump is turning but it does occur unless something interrupts the flow. So the coolant in the heater core will equilibrate with the block temp after so much time. So a valve that restricts the flow through the heater core should have some effect on how fast it heats up. That valve from the UK looks interesting and you could put switch in the ash tray where it would be out of sight but easily usable.
09-06-2021, 08:51 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Convection current is how the earliest car radiators worked, the Ford Model T engine had no water pump. As the water in the engine heated it rose to the top and the radiator water is pulled into the engine through the lower hose as the hot flows to the top of the radiator. This set up a convection current in the engine that worked fine for the 12 hp that the engine made. That principle still holds true for modern engines. When the car is off the stats open and that same current flows through the engine/radiator, certainly it does not flow anywhere as fast as when the pump is turning but it does occur unless something interrupts the flow. So the coolant in the heater core will equilibrate with the block temp after so much time. So a valve that restricts the flow through the heater core should have some effect on how fast it heats up. That valve from the UK looks interesting and you could put switch in the ash tray where it would be out of sight but easily usable.
Convection cant happen...the cold water "cant go down" because the hot water "cant go up".
The T system worked pretty well, but it had to have a -large- amount of the cooling system higher than the engine for it to work.
And the thermostat closes after the engine is off, and the initial heat soak is gone in a few minutes. Radiators could work like this, in theory, because they have a top hose, and a bottom hose. The heater core is not configured like this. The hot water wont go down in the core, and the cold water wont go up all on their own without a pressure differential making it happen.
Last edited by Speedtoys; 09-06-2021 at 08:53 PM.
09-06-2021, 09:00 PM
#37
Three Wheelin'
.......I was thinking of using something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202461554366
It is a 12-24V normally closed valve. One could easily route an on/off switch either in the engine bay or into the cabin. It would be in addition to the OEM valve, just like in your case. If you want heat, on those rare occasions, supply power to the valve for those few hours of driving and enjoy. I am just uncertain of the quality of this product (hey, ebay!) and whether I could make everything fit. I'll just assume I'd be able to find power for it somewhere.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202461554366
It is a 12-24V normally closed valve. One could easily route an on/off switch either in the engine bay or into the cabin. It would be in addition to the OEM valve, just like in your case. If you want heat, on those rare occasions, supply power to the valve for those few hours of driving and enjoy. I am just uncertain of the quality of this product (hey, ebay!) and whether I could make everything fit. I'll just assume I'd be able to find power for it somewhere.
This is located downstream of the OE valve
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rol-valve.html
Last edited by Koenig-Specials 928; 09-06-2021 at 09:06 PM.