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I realize that the lifters will bleed down within a few hours but at least the galleys will have oil in them. I thought about pulling one of the galley plugs and insert there, but didn’t wanna push my luck.
I think I will use the oil lines instead.
????
Why not just crank the engine over with the fuel pump and ignition relays pulled.
Crank until oil pressure shows on the gauge.
This has always worked for me after oil pump reseal.
That's what I had done in the past. along with stp packed into the pump.
I am just really paranoid about this project. Just want to ensure minimal wear on first try at start.
My concern is that it wont start and I will have to crank it and trouble shoot. trying to guard against new bearing damage, plus bores have been worked.
I guess proper oiling isn't really a worry as much as not getting it to run smoothly and soon so I am able to get a proper break in and bed the rings.
Will most likely post a thread about that process as I don't think I will be able to get it on the street to run it. Will have to break in on the driveway. Possible leaving the drive shaft, PS pump and AC off of engine.
Option A: Spin the oil pump with a drill motor prior to installing the belt. Fills all the galleys and passages, pumps up the lifters. Some oil will fall out of the passages and maybe the lifters after a while. Fills the filter nicely though.
Option B: After making sure that the oil filter is full, you can pump oil through the oil pressure sender port. It doesn't take or really want a huge amount of pressure but may take a bit of time to get oil everywhere. Think in the 2 bar range I think. You should see oil in the cam covers to prove that the top of the engine is getting what it needs.
Considerations: If you used assembly lube correctly, you can risk washing some of that out while pre-oiling. So save the pre-oiling until right before actual initial run. If you do decide to crank the engine on the starter as Billu suggests, pull the spark plugs for less loading on crank bearings as you develop flow/pressure the first time. Ignition relay out prevents fuel pump running (needs tach signal from EZx box for fuel pump run), saving a fuel-pump relay pull.
Yea it is buttoned up and have no appetite for option A..haha
Was thinking B with a variation. oil filter is full.
after engine is installed..
Inserting the pressure side of the oiler into the return oil line from the oil cooler. Initially was thinking of filling the whole 10 quarts now thinking that just until I see oil under cam covers.
Getting the break in done properly is hurting my head. I have an 89 in the drive way that is a no start. blocking me in. I have no history on it so cant dive into it now.
At one point actually thought about seeing if a fellow lister would fly out to help me for a day.
Unlatch LH.
Unlatch EZK.
Crank starter in 5-ish second intervals with a 1/2 minute between until you see oil pressure needle move.
Re-latch LH
Re-latch EZK
Install spark plugs and torque to spec.
Done.
Unlatch LH.
Unlatch EZK.
Crank starter in 5-ish second intervals with a 1/2 minute between until you see oil pressure needle move.
Re-latch LH
Re-latch EZK
Install spark plugs and torque to spec.
Done.
This works great if the engine is in the car. I was thinking it's still out.
Originally Posted by firemn131
Hey Doc,
[....]
At one point actually thought about seeing if a fellow lister would fly out to help me for a day.
With good seafood as an enticement.
I may have a project coming up at the end of April near Conowingo, at the extreme north border at Pa. Not sure I'd be any use on the break-in, but will take your guidance on the seafood. We could push the '89 out of the way...
Fill the oil filter and sump with break-in oil. Fill with water/coolant. Leave cap off.
Remove fuel pump fuse/relay.
Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over as David suggests. Check the oil level on dipstick. Too full is worse that too low (with-in reason), right now.
Make sure all of the fuel injection components are either new or in perfect condition.....the engine must not run rich, when first started!
Re-install spark plugs and fuel pump fuse/relay.
Run the fuel pump until there is fuel pressure in the rails.
Check for fuel leaks.
Turn the key and start the engine.
If the engine doesn't start in the first couple of revolutions....it should.
Run the engine at minimum rpms, until oil pressure goes over 3 bar.
Immediately run the engine at 2,000 rpms, without shutting it off, for 30 minutes. Set timing, if necessary....just get it close. Monitor water level, watching for "burp". Add water/coolant as needed. Put the cap on, as soon as the water in reservoir gets hot enough that you don't like the feeling on your finger. Monitor oil pressure, water temperature, charging voltage. Check for water/oil leaks. If leaks are dramatic, you will have no choice but to abort. If leaks are minimal, try to figure out where and continue.
The first 5 minutes are pretty hectic, if you are alone. After about your first 100 engines, the excitement is gone and there are no "nerves" involved. Less hectic, but still a bunch of stuff to watch, in the first few minutes.
After 30 minutes, stop the engine and change the oil filter. Cut open oil filter to make sure good things are happening.
Start engine back up and start varying rpms. Idle to 2500 at first. do this several times. Set final timing, if necessary. Idle to 3,000 rpms. Several times. Give it a few healthy revs (4,000-4500).
Allow to idle and set mixture and idle speed.
Fill the oil filter and sump with break-in oil. Fill with water/coolant. Leave cap off.
Remove fuel pump fuse/relay.
Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over as David suggests. Check the oil level on dipstick. Too full is worse that too low (with-in reason), right now.
Make sure all of the fuel injection components are either new or in perfect condition.....the engine must not run rich, when first started!
Re-install spark plugs and fuel pump fuse/relay.
Run the fuel pump until there is fuel pressure in the rails.
Check for fuel leaks.
Turn the key and start the engine.
If the engine doesn't start in the first couple of revolutions....it should.
Run the engine at minimum rpms, until oil pressure goes over 3 bar.
Immediately run the engine at 2,000 rpms, without shutting it off, for 30 minutes. Set timing, if necessary....just get it close. Monitor water level, watching for "burp". Add water/coolant as needed. Put the cap on, as soon as the water in reservoir gets hot enough that you don't like the feeling on your finger. Monitor oil pressure, water temperature, charging voltage. Check for water/oil leaks. If leaks are dramatic, you will have no choice but to abort. If leaks are minimal, try to figure out where and continue.
The first 5 minutes are pretty hectic, if you are alone. After about your first 100 engines, the excitement is gone and there are no "nerves" involved. Less hectic, but still a bunch of stuff to watch, in the first few minutes.
After 30 minutes, stop the engine and change the oil filter. Cut open oil filter to make sure good things are happening.
Start engine back up and start varying rpms. Idle to 2500 at first. do this several times. Set final timing, if necessary. Idle to 3,000 rpms. Several times. Give it a few healthy revs (4,000-4500).
Allow to idle and set mixture and idle speed.
Done.
Drive car.
May i ask Greg why it is that important not to run rich ? and for first start or also later on ??
May i ask Greg why it is that important not to run rich ? and for first start or also later on ??
If it runs rich the gas will wash the oil off of the cylinder walls causing undue wear on them and the piston rings meaning you might have to rebuilt the engine again.
I think I will install a temporary fuel pressure gauge on the pass rail during break in to see if pressure is stable. Only way I know to get an idea if I am lean or rich. Probably not the best way to figure it out. But that's where I will start.
03-09-2021, 05:37 PM
Pre-oiling
