928 S4 91 start first gear
02-21-2021, 08:20 PM
#2
Former Sponsor
And pound the planetary up, something fierce.
I can tell if a transmission has been starting in 1st gear all the time, from across the room, when they are apart. (And by the invoice for the rebuild, of course.)
There's a reason Porsche didn't want the cars starting in 1st gear, all the time....and limited the amount of engine torque when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
If you do one change, you might as well do the other.....and really tear up the transmission!
02-22-2021, 04:53 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
If you short across the wires going to the kickdown switch, you will start in 1st gear....and loose the electric kickdown "passing gear", of course.
And pound the planetary up, something fierce.
I can tell if a transmission has been starting in 1st gear all the time, from across the room, when they are apart. (And by the invoice for the rebuild, of course.)
There's a reason Porsche didn't want the cars starting in 1st gear, all the time....and limited the amount of engine torque when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
If you do one change, you might as well do the other.....and really tear up the transmission!
And pound the planetary up, something fierce.
I can tell if a transmission has been starting in 1st gear all the time, from across the room, when they are apart. (And by the invoice for the rebuild, of course.)
There's a reason Porsche didn't want the cars starting in 1st gear, all the time....and limited the amount of engine torque when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
If you do one change, you might as well do the other.....and really tear up the transmission!
Another topic of substantive interest to me if you are up for some discussion on such. What you are saying and what I researched appear to be at some odds. As with anything I do to the 928 I try hard to carry out appropriate due diligience before taking any actions no matter who the suggestion comes from. When I entered the 928 world back in 1998 with my late S4 I would have preferred a manual transmission model but having driven one since the only thing I liked about it was the 5 gears as opposed to my auto transmission's 4 gears or perhaps better decribed as 4.5 gears given the role the torque converter plays. From day one I hated the start in 2nd gear thing- sure it can pull it with the torque it produces but to me the car as Porsche supplied it just feels "dead".
In response to the OP there are two mods required to deal with this- the first one is to set the kick down cable approx 4 turns tighter than the officially recommended setting. The second "mod" is to jump the kick down switch full time. With the first mod the car will tend to start in first gear on part throttle - with the second mod it will start in first gear no matter what.The "acid test" is to see what happens at approximately 70 mph. Gentle pressure on the throttle should see the car gently accelerate but any more and it should change down to third. I specify 70 mph because at lower speeds it will drop into second.
With the system as supplied by Porsche the car feels as though it is doing what it wants to do, with the mods described it feels as though it is doing what I want it to do without playing with a **** and in essence feels like a manual transmission without having to do anything it is that good. The 722.3 4Tronic transmission is probably the best auto unit of its day and in some ways it may well be the best ever unit made. Its only flaw is its 4 speeds and that was corrected with the 5Tronic transmission that superceded it [too late for our cars]. These transmissions regularly see over 300k miles without intervention. As best as I could tell the Porsche variant is identical albeit in a different casing to suit the transaxle configuration and a few tweaks to the valve body.
As to the question of why the thing starts out in 2nd I can state for a fact that MB designed it that way to reduce the tendency to pull forwards at idle and to stop wheel spin on their top models that produce power/torque levels in the same ball park as the 928 [the 560 SEC had very skinny 215 rubber!]. There is also some duscussion that it had to do with official fuel consumption levels that could also cause the car to take a hit. It had [in the MB case] nothing to do with mechanical protection of the tranny- whether it should have I cannot really say. As for the 2/3 shift retard that was something to do with protecting the newly introduced cats when still cold or that was what I found when researching such.
So those like myself who have carried out such mods do they always start out like a loony every time they get in the car- I very much doubt it- for sure I do not but doubtless some will. I never push these cars until they are fully warm and these days i do not push them much at all mostly down to law enforcement reasons.
As for shifting points all I can say is that they are pre-determined and without modifications they cannot be altered and see no reason to so why would tightening the kick down cable or jumping the kickdown switch change anything? As I am aware it does not fundamentally change the way the tranny operates rather it sends a message of intent earlier. As I am aware when the box is about to change gear it sends a signal of iintent to the EZK to retard the ignition temporarily as it shifts- is this any different due to the mods done?
When pushing the unit hard my shifts at full rpms are very smooth, no banging, skreeches or anything untoward. On the other hand when the vacuum modulator is cut off from vacuum that is horrific- not at full rpm shifts but at low load/lower rpm shifts - then the tranny feels as though Thor is changing the gears with his hammer! I set the modulator a bit on the firm side but the shifts are still very smooth. On the other hand if one is worried about torque being a problem during shifting retarding the ignition will soften things a bit but it will not stop transmission of torque and needless to say peak torque is not at max rpms it is around 4k rpms. On the other hand if torque really were a problem one wonders how these monster motors survive. The thing I can say with certainly is that the auto tranny fares way better when handling 600 ft lbs than the manual tranny does.
If I walked into a showroom with a view to purchasing a high performance state of the art GT and the salesman told me that the car starts in second to protect the transmission from damage I would laugh my *** off and walk out of the showroom [if I was not doubled up in agony from a rupture]. As to whether these mods genuinely reduce the life expectancy of the tranny I cannot comment- just that I see no logical reason why they should but as always info is king. That GB has seen a linkage is what it is and must be respected but then without qualification what does it really mean? The chaps who do this probably drive their cars harder and maybe cover higher mileages [for instance] but the real question is not "whether" it is "how much". These units are commonly rated for 300k miles and more- Bill Ball hit 300k with his S4 and a supercharger some of the time- I doubt he did these mods but...?. If these mods reduce the tranny life to say 250k miles would I really care? The pleasure I have had driving my 928 with the configuration I have would more than make up for a loss of some life expectancy. For all i know my tranny might end up a bag of metal bits next time out but then how likely is this at some 90k miles?
That GB sees a difference on examples that have carried out such mods is of course interesting but without analysis of the specifics to me it is what it is- a piece of interesting information.
02-22-2021, 05:40 PM
#4
Former Sponsor
Greg,
Another topic of substantive interest to me if you are up for some discussion on such. What you are saying and what I researched appear to be at some odds. As with anything I do to the 928 I try hard to carry out appropriate due diligience before taking any actions no matter who the suggestion comes from. When I entered the 928 world back in 1998 with my late S4 I would have preferred a manual transmission model but having driven one since the only thing I liked about it was the 5 gears as opposed to my auto transmission's 4 gears or perhaps better decribed as 4.5 gears given the role the torque converter plays. From day one I hated the start in 2nd gear thing- sure it can pull it with the torque it produces but to me the car as Porsche supplied it just feels "dead".
In response to the OP there are two mods required to deal with this- the first one is to set the kick down cable approx 4 turns tighter than the officially recommended setting. The second "mod" is to jump the kick down switch full time. With the first mod the car will tend to start in first gear on part throttle - with the second mod it will start in first gear no matter what.The "acid test" is to see what happens at approximately 70 mph. Gentle pressure on the throttle should see the car gently accelerate but any more and it should change down to third. I specify 70 mph because at lower speeds it will drop into second.
With the system as supplied by Porsche the car feels as though it is doing what it wants to do, with the mods described it feels as though it is doing what I want it to do without playing with a **** and in essence feels like a manual transmission without having to do anything it is that good. The 722.3 4Tronic transmission is probably the best auto unit of its day and in some ways it may well be the best ever unit made. Its only flaw is its 4 speeds and that was corrected with the 5Tronic transmission that superceded it [too late for our cars]. These transmissions regularly see over 300k miles without intervention. As best as I could tell the Porsche variant is identical albeit in a different casing to suit the transaxle configuration and a few tweaks to the valve body.
As to the question of why the thing starts out in 2nd I can state for a fact that MB designed it that way to reduce the tendency to pull forwards at idle and to stop wheel spin on their top models that produce power/torque levels in the same ball park as the 928 [the 560 SEC had very skinny 215 rubber!]. There is also some duscussion that it had to do with official fuel consumption levels that could also cause the car to take a hit. It had [in the MB case] nothing to do with mechanical protection of the tranny- whether it should have I cannot really say. As for the 2/3 shift retard that was something to do with protecting the newly introduced cats when still cold or that was what I found when researching such.
So those like myself who have carried out such mods do they always start out like a loony every time they get in the car- I very much doubt it- for sure I do not but doubtless some will. I never push these cars until they are fully warm and these days i do not push them much at all mostly down to law enforcement reasons.
As for shifting points all I can say is that they are pre-determined and without modifications they cannot be altered and see no reason to so why would tightening the kick down cable or jumping the kickdown switch change anything? As I am aware it does not fundamentally change the way the tranny operates rather it sends a message of intent earlier. As I am aware when the box is about to change gear it sends a signal of iintent to the EZK to retard the ignition temporarily as it shifts- is this any different due to the mods done?
When pushing the unit hard my shifts at full rpms are very smooth, no banging, skreeches or anything untoward. On the other hand when the vacuum modulator is cut off from vacuum that is horrific- not at full rpm shifts but at low load/lower rpm shifts - then the tranny feels as though Thor is changing the gears with his hammer! I set the modulator a bit on the firm side but the shifts are still very smooth. On the other hand if one is worried about torque being a problem during shifting retarding the ignition will soften things a bit but it will not stop transmission of torque and needless to say peak torque is not at max rpms it is around 4k rpms. On the other hand if torque really were a problem one wonders how these monster motors survive. The thing I can say with certainly is that the auto tranny fares way better when handling 600 ft lbs than the manual tranny does.
If I walked into a showroom with a view to purchasing a high performance state of the art GT and the salesman told me that the car starts in second to protect the transmission from damage I would laugh my *** off and walk out of the showroom [if I was not doubled up in agony from a rupture]. As to whether these mods genuinely reduce the life expectancy of the tranny I cannot comment- just that I see no logical reason why they should but as always info is king. That GB has seen a linkage is what it is and must be respected but then without qualification what does it really mean? The chaps who do this probably drive their cars harder and maybe cover higher mileages [for instance] but the real question is not "whether" it is "how much". These units are commonly rated for 300k miles and more- Bill Ball hit 300k with his S4 and a supercharger some of the time- I doubt he did these mods but...?. If these mods reduce the tranny life to say 250k miles would I really care? The pleasure I have had driving my 928 with the configuration I have would more than make up for a loss of some life expectancy. For all i know my tranny might end up a bag of metal bits next time out but then how likely is this at some 90k miles?
That GB sees a difference on examples that have carried out such mods is of course interesting but without analysis of the specifics to me it is what it is- a piece of interesting information.
Another topic of substantive interest to me if you are up for some discussion on such. What you are saying and what I researched appear to be at some odds. As with anything I do to the 928 I try hard to carry out appropriate due diligience before taking any actions no matter who the suggestion comes from. When I entered the 928 world back in 1998 with my late S4 I would have preferred a manual transmission model but having driven one since the only thing I liked about it was the 5 gears as opposed to my auto transmission's 4 gears or perhaps better decribed as 4.5 gears given the role the torque converter plays. From day one I hated the start in 2nd gear thing- sure it can pull it with the torque it produces but to me the car as Porsche supplied it just feels "dead".
In response to the OP there are two mods required to deal with this- the first one is to set the kick down cable approx 4 turns tighter than the officially recommended setting. The second "mod" is to jump the kick down switch full time. With the first mod the car will tend to start in first gear on part throttle - with the second mod it will start in first gear no matter what.The "acid test" is to see what happens at approximately 70 mph. Gentle pressure on the throttle should see the car gently accelerate but any more and it should change down to third. I specify 70 mph because at lower speeds it will drop into second.
With the system as supplied by Porsche the car feels as though it is doing what it wants to do, with the mods described it feels as though it is doing what I want it to do without playing with a **** and in essence feels like a manual transmission without having to do anything it is that good. The 722.3 4Tronic transmission is probably the best auto unit of its day and in some ways it may well be the best ever unit made. Its only flaw is its 4 speeds and that was corrected with the 5Tronic transmission that superceded it [too late for our cars]. These transmissions regularly see over 300k miles without intervention. As best as I could tell the Porsche variant is identical albeit in a different casing to suit the transaxle configuration and a few tweaks to the valve body.
As to the question of why the thing starts out in 2nd I can state for a fact that MB designed it that way to reduce the tendency to pull forwards at idle and to stop wheel spin on their top models that produce power/torque levels in the same ball park as the 928 [the 560 SEC had very skinny 215 rubber!]. There is also some duscussion that it had to do with official fuel consumption levels that could also cause the car to take a hit. It had [in the MB case] nothing to do with mechanical protection of the tranny- whether it should have I cannot really say. As for the 2/3 shift retard that was something to do with protecting the newly introduced cats when still cold or that was what I found when researching such.
So those like myself who have carried out such mods do they always start out like a loony every time they get in the car- I very much doubt it- for sure I do not but doubtless some will. I never push these cars until they are fully warm and these days i do not push them much at all mostly down to law enforcement reasons.
As for shifting points all I can say is that they are pre-determined and without modifications they cannot be altered and see no reason to so why would tightening the kick down cable or jumping the kickdown switch change anything? As I am aware it does not fundamentally change the way the tranny operates rather it sends a message of intent earlier. As I am aware when the box is about to change gear it sends a signal of iintent to the EZK to retard the ignition temporarily as it shifts- is this any different due to the mods done?
When pushing the unit hard my shifts at full rpms are very smooth, no banging, skreeches or anything untoward. On the other hand when the vacuum modulator is cut off from vacuum that is horrific- not at full rpm shifts but at low load/lower rpm shifts - then the tranny feels as though Thor is changing the gears with his hammer! I set the modulator a bit on the firm side but the shifts are still very smooth. On the other hand if one is worried about torque being a problem during shifting retarding the ignition will soften things a bit but it will not stop transmission of torque and needless to say peak torque is not at max rpms it is around 4k rpms. On the other hand if torque really were a problem one wonders how these monster motors survive. The thing I can say with certainly is that the auto tranny fares way better when handling 600 ft lbs than the manual tranny does.
If I walked into a showroom with a view to purchasing a high performance state of the art GT and the salesman told me that the car starts in second to protect the transmission from damage I would laugh my *** off and walk out of the showroom [if I was not doubled up in agony from a rupture]. As to whether these mods genuinely reduce the life expectancy of the tranny I cannot comment- just that I see no logical reason why they should but as always info is king. That GB has seen a linkage is what it is and must be respected but then without qualification what does it really mean? The chaps who do this probably drive their cars harder and maybe cover higher mileages [for instance] but the real question is not "whether" it is "how much". These units are commonly rated for 300k miles and more- Bill Ball hit 300k with his S4 and a supercharger some of the time- I doubt he did these mods but...?. If these mods reduce the tranny life to say 250k miles would I really care? The pleasure I have had driving my 928 with the configuration I have would more than make up for a loss of some life expectancy. For all i know my tranny might end up a bag of metal bits next time out but then how likely is this at some 90k miles?
That GB sees a difference on examples that have carried out such mods is of course interesting but without analysis of the specifics to me it is what it is- a piece of interesting information.
I occasionally spend the time to caution people again doing destructive things to their 928's, based upon what I experience.
I'm kinda tired of debating what I physically see, time after time.
Or trying to prove it, to you.....who owns and sees one example.
And when it is all said and done, I make a bit more profit, when I replace a pounded out planetary, during a rebuild!
(Some food for thought, regarding the sentence above......if I was like some of the people in this business, I'd be encouraging people to make this modification, correct?)
02-23-2021, 02:52 AM
#5
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
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Its all relative...
but...
Why did they make a first gear. ? Its not even advertised on the gear selector.
If they didnt make a 1st gear...and second became first..then it shalt become 1st gear....only prior to second gear..being one prior to third. If one selects a gear 2 prior to third then one has gone to far. ...and all bets are off.
...
but...
Why did they make a first gear. ? Its not even advertised on the gear selector.
If they didnt make a 1st gear...and second became first..then it shalt become 1st gear....only prior to second gear..being one prior to third. If one selects a gear 2 prior to third then one has gone to far. ...and all bets are off.
...
The following 2 users liked this post by Tony:
beran earms (03-24-2021),
Schocki (02-23-2021)
02-23-2021, 05:55 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
AFAIK Porsche choose the 2nd gear option to eliminate the small jolt just before coming to a complete stop. If your just rolling along at a brisk walking speed, move the gear selector to 2 and slow further down. You will feel the downshift into 1st gear just before you come to a complete stop.
Porsche never made the automatic gearboxes for our 928, they are all MB units. I guess that they had no choice than to accept the change from 3 to 4 gears by MB, when they stopped making the three speed units.
Porsches way out was to drive off in 2nd and only use 1st if needed. The 928 is happy with only the gears under normal driving, it suits the characteristics of a GT bet well.
As long as the automatic works fine and it's well adjusted, it will do a good job.
Porsche never made the automatic gearboxes for our 928, they are all MB units. I guess that they had no choice than to accept the change from 3 to 4 gears by MB, when they stopped making the three speed units.
Porsches way out was to drive off in 2nd and only use 1st if needed. The 928 is happy with only the gears under normal driving, it suits the characteristics of a GT bet well.
As long as the automatic works fine and it's well adjusted, it will do a good job.
The following users liked this post:
MJVirgo (02-26-2021)
02-23-2021, 02:32 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
If you short across the wires going to the kickdown switch, you will start in 1st gear....and loose the electric kickdown "passing gear", of course.
And pound the planetary up, something fierce.
I can tell if a transmission has been starting in 1st gear all the time, from across the room, when they are apart. (And by the invoice for the rebuild, of course.)
There's a reason Porsche didn't want the cars starting in 1st gear, all the time....and limited the amount of engine torque when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
If you do one change, you might as well do the other.....and really tear up the transmission!
And pound the planetary up, something fierce.
I can tell if a transmission has been starting in 1st gear all the time, from across the room, when they are apart. (And by the invoice for the rebuild, of course.)
There's a reason Porsche didn't want the cars starting in 1st gear, all the time....and limited the amount of engine torque when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
If you do one change, you might as well do the other.....and really tear up the transmission!
Trending Topics
02-23-2021, 03:20 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
The EZ system of the S3 has no knock control system capability. The EZK system of the S4 and later models does.
02-23-2021, 05:22 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I don't think the transmission is reliant on knock control. If you are mentioning this because you think the retard is reliant solely on knock control, the S3 has the ability to regard the ignition based on intake air temp. So both EZF and EZK can regard timing based on external sensor input.
02-23-2021, 08:56 PM
#10
Former Sponsor
Its all relative...
but...
Why did they make a first gear. ? Its not even advertised on the gear selector.
If they didnt make a 1st gear...and second became first..then it shalt become 1st gear....only prior to second gear..being one prior to third. If one selects a gear 2 prior to third then one has gone to far. ...and all bets are off....
but...
Why did they make a first gear. ? Its not even advertised on the gear selector.
If they didnt make a 1st gear...and second became first..then it shalt become 1st gear....only prior to second gear..being one prior to third. If one selects a gear 2 prior to third then one has gone to far. ...and all bets are off.
...Plenty of chance to abuse things as much as possible, right there!
And if the transmission kickdown cable and the electrical switch on the floor both function, you can start in "D" and then floor the car.
It will downshift from 2nd to 1st, if things are working properly.
Given those two functions, I see no reason to permanently "jump" the switch.....just abusive.
02-23-2021, 08:58 PM
#11
Former Sponsor
Worth noting, in this conversation, is that the 4 speed transmissions in 1985 and 1986 did start in 1st gear.
Porsche eliminated this function in 1987 and the transmissions all start in 2nd from there to the end of the production of 928's.
Last edited by GregBBRD; 02-23-2021 at 09:01 PM.
02-24-2021, 12:48 AM
#12
Nordschleife Master
The ignition retardation that Greg refers to is a switch on the side of the transmission (87+ cars). It has nothing to do with the knock retarding capabilities of the car.
I've seen S3 cars when you bridge that sensor where they go into a false neutral in 1st gear until the rpms match the speed you are going.
I've never seen wear on the planetaries. But I've also not had a car where that mod was left installed.
You can do a number of things that will make the transmission start in 1st gear (install an 83-87 valve body), or modify the later VB so that it will engage 1st gear with anything more than 30-40% throttle applied.
Making the proper changes is much more reliable and makes the cars much much more fun to drive IMO
I've seen S3 cars when you bridge that sensor where they go into a false neutral in 1st gear until the rpms match the speed you are going.
I've never seen wear on the planetaries. But I've also not had a car where that mod was left installed.
You can do a number of things that will make the transmission start in 1st gear (install an 83-87 valve body), or modify the later VB so that it will engage 1st gear with anything more than 30-40% throttle applied.
Making the proper changes is much more reliable and makes the cars much much more fun to drive IMO
02-24-2021, 01:52 AM
#13
Former Sponsor
The ignition retardation that Greg refers to is a switch on the side of the transmission (87+ cars). It has nothing to do with the knock retarding capabilities of the car.
I've seen S3 cars when you bridge that sensor where they go into a false neutral in 1st gear until the rpms match the speed you are going.
I've never seen wear on the planetaries. But I've also not had a car where that mod was left installed.
You can do a number of things that will make the transmission start in 1st gear (install an 83-87 valve body), or modify the later VB so that it will engage 1st gear with anything more than 30-40% throttle applied.
Making the proper changes is much more reliable and makes the cars much much more fun to drive IMO
I've seen S3 cars when you bridge that sensor where they go into a false neutral in 1st gear until the rpms match the speed you are going.
I've never seen wear on the planetaries. But I've also not had a car where that mod was left installed.
You can do a number of things that will make the transmission start in 1st gear (install an 83-87 valve body), or modify the later VB so that it will engage 1st gear with anything more than 30-40% throttle applied.
Making the proper changes is much more reliable and makes the cars much much more fun to drive IMO
However, doesn't take a bunch of intelligence to figure out that Porsche, a company that builds high performance cars, didn't make the change to 2nd gear starts and pull timing out of the engine in the 2nd to 3rd shifts, without a pretty good reason, right?
Last edited by GregBBRD; 02-24-2021 at 01:54 AM.
02-24-2021, 04:07 AM
#14
Rennlist Member
I don't think the transmission is reliant on knock control. If you are mentioning this because you think the retard is reliant solely on knock control, the S3 has the ability to regard the ignition based on intake air temp. So both EZF and EZK can regard timing based on external sensor input.
You appear to be misconstruing my post that is based on the premise that what you wrote about the S3 is correct [I know squat about the S3 EZ system other than it does not have a knock control capability]. I would have thought it had the same capability to dump timing en-masse as it were but that is not what you implied in your post .
The simple fact is the S4 EZK system is most definitely configured to retard ignition and in stock setup does so in 3 steps of 3 degrees up to a maximum of 9 degrees but that is irrelevant. There is also a logic circuit that retards the ignition by a default 6 degrees if it senses a fault condition in either of the knock sensors or the Hall sensor- it is an on/off type of thing so logic says it is easy enough to apply the same logic to trigger retard- the EZK senses the switch contact as it scans the logic inputs and if it senses that contact has triggered then one presumes it pulls back 6 degrees or whatever amount of timing it is configured to pull and that softens the power delivery more or less instantaneously given the shift logic is controlled by the system hydraulics with the throttle wide open.
With the system as I have it configured the shift occurs when I want it to occur and more often than not that is when the motor is past its torque peak at 4k or whatever, I simply ease off the throttle and it changes- now how that can destroy the plantary gear or any other gear for that matter is beyond me- very rarely does my tranny change when it wants to- thus the car drives like a 4 speed manual without a gear ****. No thumps, no bangs pretty much smooth as butter and that is why I rate the 722.3 transmission so highly- just wish it were 5 or 6 speed but that is what it is.
The "challenge" I have thrown down is for someone to explain how that change can possibly damage the tranny- as I am concerned it is not doing anything it was not designed to do it is simply changing the sequence of what it does . What may not be so well known is that the tranny as fitted to the MB 560 SEC had an option in some markets where the gear selector lever had an extended gate labelled "B'- a frend of mine had this in his example-that facilitates first gear starts and no conditionality on its use permanently or otherwise so the notion that the tranny cannot take first gear starts does not make any sense to me. Thrash the living daylights out of it every time one gets in the car and it would not surprise me at all if life expectancy is shortened to some extent.
02-24-2021, 09:29 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Yes, if you pull the gearshifter down into 2nd at a stop, the car will start in 1st gear and remain in 1st gear (presumably for steep mountain conditions.), until you physically shift into "3". If you then immediately shift back to 2nd gear position, it will then stay in 2nd until you physically shift into 3rd gear. It will then stay in 3rd gear until you physically shift into 4th gear.
On my '91 when the gear shift lever is pulled into second from a stop, it's starts in first gear and then shifts to second on it's own when it nears 6,000 rpm. I found this out by accident when I was about to do the "move the lever to 3rd, then quickly back to the 2nd gear position" method when it upshifted shifted by itself.
Last edited by Brent A.; 02-24-2021 at 09:35 AM.