No. The passenger side motor mount has the hook pointing to the rear, the driver's side has it point to the front. Please tell me you're working on a left hand drive 928.

 

If I sit in the car I am on the left hand

 

Then what I have described is correct.

 

The hook plates have the same index hole as the crossmembers IIRC. The plates are interchangeable, but face opposite ways when the pin in the mount is indexed in the crossmember correctly. Looks like you are adding one of Carl's rapid-access three-piece crossmembers, so you may have different holes for the motor mount pin that what came on the car originally.

 

Thanks. I got the engine mounts bolted to the block. I think I'm going to use rope to hole the cross member so I can bolt it in place.

 

Um, use a floor jack with a big block of wood to help hold the crossmember up. It's a bit of a juggling act as you need to lift and hold the lower control arms up in place before the crossmember goes up. Luxury of the split crossmember you have is that you can wrestle one side at a time. Don't Forget The Heat Shields as you assemble. Very Important. FWIW, the last bolts I put in are ones from the top bracket into the block. The mount is almost tight at the crossmember, so there's a little wiggle room for block bolts alignment. The nut under the crossmember is easy to get to for final tightening once the crossmember is securely bolted up and the top plate is tightened to the block saddles.

I love this project so much that the continuing nightmares won't let me forget the details... The first time was more challenge than subsequent efforts. A lift was added to the workbay remedial to the work and the sleep issues.

 

Why???

 

It was on ebay real cheap and my engine mounts were bad. I also plan on changing the oil pan gasket later on

 

I might not rebuild the steering rack this go around but definitely replace the bushings. The rack looks like it was rebuilt by a company called ZF.

 

Just be aware that the stock part is a major structural piece.
This...not so much.

 

Do the OPG now. Car is up tools are out, only one alignment needed. Even with the three-piece crossmember, the steering rack comes out for OPG.

 

Is the stuff inside the oil pan easily swappable? The reason I ask is I have another oil pan that is cleaned. If not I will just take the one to work and clean it in the solvent tank.

 

I'm tempted to pressure wash the bottom engine area, has anyone done this before?

 

There are a few electrical items that need protection before you grab the pressure washer. Shield (or completely remove) the alternators and starter motor, shield the oil sender and the open wiring harness from the removed components. The starter needs to come out for the OPG. Using the pressure washer means you are redistributing the oil/grease to other places. Use plastic sheeting to limit the immediate blast zone. I love my pressure washer, but might be more comfortable with a lower pressure (electric) pump and a lower-velocity nozzle set.

I'd have to search back through this thread to see if I shared my standard MM/OPG project guidance to start with a few cans of engine cleaner for the bottom. I like Gunk Foamy Engine Brite for undercarriage stuff, but almost any solvent-emulsifier cleaner will get the job done. I've learned to stay away from some of the detergent products like the orange degreasers unless you can very thoroughly rinse them off with hot water, as they will discolor the aluminum. Worse are the purple degreasers, as they are caustic and will quickly darken the aluminum even before they finish dissolving all the grease and oil. If you use any chemicals, follow with a pH-neutral wash with a good car wash detergent or, better, one of the 'total body scrub' products, followed by a very thorough rinse. I get to capture the runoff from any/all of these methods, particularly important if you have asphalt or a concrete drive that -will- stain. At our previous home as at this one, all had to be captured to protect the local flora, as there are/were no storm runoff drains that didn't drain to local waterways. Lots to consider!

Share back your results with whatever method you choose.

 

I'm putting it all back together. I have new bushings for the steering rack (decided not to rebuild it this go around because theirs no leaks). How did you get the old bushing out. I got the center out and the rubber but the shell of the old one is in their