Hammerhead

Update: I've got everything back together and running. All's not well though. The reason I removed the intake manifold was due to a whistling sound combined with a leaner than usual condition (A/F meter). After replacing the gaskets and vacuum hoses, I still have the exact same condition. I'm going to get an innertube later today. I can hear the whistle inside the car and I can hear it with the windows down when I drive by a wall. However, when I stand over the engine and listen and rev the engine and listen, I can't hear it. But, then again, my car is really loud.

My question is: Would an exhaust leak cause the O2 sensor to give me an erroneous reading?

My O2 sensor is located in my H-pipe. Also, it seems that the O2 sensor takes a lot longer time to give me a reading.

ViribusUnits

The O2 sensor should not give you a false rich signal. I at least can't figure out how it would. They're made so that the failure mode is a false lean.

If it gives you a reading w/ in 30 seconds of being dead cold your OK.

Did you end up removeing, and scraping all the old gasket material?

Did you pull and reseal all the injectors?

How about the seal at the bottem of the AFM?

Anyways, do the inner tube thing. It should fix you up.

Sean79 5spd

Did you replace the o-ring at the bottom and the boot at the top of the throttle body? Also the boots between each intake runner and the upper plenum and the cold start injector gasket. I assume you did all the vacuum hoses and tees.

Hammerhead

I'm getting a leaner signal. It's set up to run rich because of my dry nitrous system. It's running in the green (normal), instead of in the blue (rich). I've run it this way for approximately a year and a half.

I didn't reseal the injectors. The seal you're referring to on the AFM is the connective seal to the lower airbox? Or is there another seal?

The other gaskets are good to go.

Hammerhead

Rats, I guess I should of asked for a list of things to replace before I started. No, did not replace the o-ring at the bottom and did not replace the cold-start gasket.

Hammerhead

I used to get a reading after 30 seconds from the O2, but now it seems to take 4 to 5 minutes, even after I restart it after running for awhile. It starts off red (lean) and then SLOWLY moves up through the lights to green.

Sean79 5spd

Those items I mentioned may be fine, its just that they are inexpensive to replace WYAIT and are a potential for leakge on older cars.

What device are you conecting the O2 sensor to. I was considering installing an O2 sensor on my 79 as a method of setting mixture.

ViribusUnits

OK suggestions.

0. This is the 83 Euro S, right?

1. Find the leaking sound. This is priority 1. It could be any number of things. Injector seals, seal between the TB and top metal box, the boots between that box and the runners, also it's possible that it could be between the main unit of the K-jet system and the TB. Then you've got the varity of vacuum systems. This will be fun for you I'm sure.

2. How are you makeing a dry nitrious oxide system work on CIS? This part I'm curious about? Is there a way to enrich the system for the NOS? also how are you hanndling retarding the ignition timeing?

3. If it's takeing longer than 30 seconds to get a reading off the O2 senosr, and your running a heated sensor, most likely the heater eighter lost power, OR the heater burnt out. Check the heater on the sensor to find out.

mark kibort

metal spatchula (sp) all that chemical stuff will only get you high. they come off, but you need to get under the gasket with the spatchula or a razor blade. wait until you see the job, removing the gaskets from the cam tower while on the car. those are baked on!!! not fun. 1 day for both sides and 1month of back pain.

mk

Hammerhead

Sean--I have ithe O2 sensor hooked only to the A/F Ratio Meter. I think I purchased it from 928 Specialists. I use it only to monitor the mix. It works great or it did. I'm able to tune pretty effectively with it. I have no cats, but I can lean the mixture out to pass Harris County (Houston, TX) emissions.

Viribus--It is an '83 Euro.
1) I'm in the process of setting up the innertube test (having a little trouble with the radiator clamp). I'll get back to it later.
2) As for the nitrous, I'm still playing around with it. I was running probably getting 25hp out of it. I would set the mixture rich enough that when spraying with nitrous, the mixture level stayed in the blue. When off the nitrous it still ran fine (ie. no fouled plugs, surging, etc.).I have a bottle heater and different jets. My main project for this month was going to be setting the dry system for 50-75hp and then this happened. I won't be able to modify it anymore until I get my air leak fixed.
3) I don't know if it's a heated O2 sensor or not.