When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Take a 27 mm socket with you (or 22mm? Can't remember) with the long handle - turn the crank clockwise and see if the motor turns. If so, you are ok on the valves. If not don't look back. As to the car, I think $3K is a good price for it. Otto's post above is spot on in all respects (post 9). The interior looks really good, hard to tell if cracks on dash or pod though. I just bought an 85 in this same color combo, and it was in pretty good shape - drivable, but tons of deferred maintenance. I dropped $6K + immediately into it, doing just about all the work myself. The car is just about done and well sorted, and is a good daily driver.
Note removing the air tubes on an 86 must be done *gently*. Take the air box top off, and move them a bit at a time backwards to get them off the front vent intakes, then slowly forward, always gently pushing and never pulling on anything ahead of the accordion joints. Just do one, you'll be able to see the top of the belt on the gear.
But yes, a socket to turn the engine will tell you in a second or two.
I think Brian (IcemanG17) was referring to the car I eventually bought. I paid $4K for a car that was running, with some minor issues, a fairly trashed interior and needing new paint, and I personally think I got a really good deal. Values have gone up some since then as well, I believe. IMO if you can verify that the motor and transmission aren't seized up somehow (rotate the engine as described above, you should feel compression fighting you, not sure if you can do more than shift into various gears sitting, but do what you can) then if you can get it for under $5K you'll have a very nice deal, in my opinion. Hard to justify paying any more than that without further evidence the drivetrain is viable, however.
Tossed a battery in and cranked the car over, spins over nice. Put in gear and used the starter to move car as a way to test clutch which is working. Windows work, gauges work with exception of tach as it didn't start.
About the dirtiest I've ever seen a 928. I've got my work cut out for me.
It's a $20k car when you are done. It needs at least $5-8k just in rubber bits. Plus whatever mechanicals are needed. Assuming no issues with the engine (a HUGE assumption), the rest of the driveline is an unknown. At 100k it needs bearings from the clutch through the rear wheels, fuel system components, more. The coolant condition is critical to internal engine metal and headgasket survival.
All that said, if it were somewhat local to me, confirmed a 86.5 (last 4 of the vin >1000, and passed the basic belt and cam timing tests, it would be a $3-5k buy. I have my own metric screwdrivers and crescent wrenches and think I know how to use them, something that makes a huge difference in how I might look at a car like this. Retail mechanical services are steep for open-end efforts like this, and go up when you factor in the learning process for yourself or your mechanic.
All that said, decide what you want to end up with and when, and what your total budget might be. If the interior cleans up to your satisfaction, and the paint is all original and recoverable, it's all down to what's not working plus picking up all the maintenance. The only way to reasonably recover the costs for a car like this is to own and drive it. A local PCA member has been sniffing for an early-style manual car, and this fills that bill nicely, so I know I would have an outlet if it didn't last in my garage. Do you have a passion for owning and driving a red 928 5-speed? Got the time and dollars needed to recover this one? Does your family by in to it as a project?
I'll admit that I'm not the best cheerleader for 928 projects especially for folks who aren't prepared. Cars that ran until they stopped and were parked have the potential to be amazing finds for the right person, but more often seem to turn into nightmares. A lot will be learned when you look at the car. I'll recommend that you solicit local support from a forum member to visit the car with you. Another set of experienced eyes is essential. In my limited experience.
EDIT: Posted while you were loading the car. Nicely bought. Keep us updated with progress as you get into the project. And do invest the time reading through the "new visitors" thread in the sticky section at the top.
Tossed a battery in and cranked the car over, spins over nice. Put in gear and used the starter to move car as a way to test clutch which is working. Windows work, gauges work with exception of tach as it didn't start.
About the dirtiest I've ever seen a 928. I've got my work cut out for me.
For that paint, read this https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ge-paints.html
I used this technique on my 83 ROW and it really brought back the black single stage paint without a buffing wheel.
I’ve seen too many buffed old paint jobs full of swirl marks, so I thought I’d try this.
Clean, clay bar, then soak for a day with #7. Came off easy and really took care of the oxidation.
I did a second application of #7, again leaving on overnight.
I know it seems counterintuitive to leave “wax” on for 24 hours, but this stuff isn’t a wax.
Once you have the color back, a coat of true wax will protect it.
If you find out the problem with this car was a fuse or fuel pump relay, please don’t tell me. I almost drove up to look at it a month ago, but was put off by lack of communication from the owner.
If it didn’t have the sunroof, I might have been more enthusiastic.
For that paint, read this https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ge-paints.html
I used this technique on my 83 ROW and it really brought back the black single stage paint without a buffing wheel.
I’ve seen too many buffed old paint jobs full of swirl marks, so I thought I’d try this.
Clean, clay bar, then soak for a day with #7. Came off easy and really took care of the oxidation.
I did a second application of #7, again leaving on overnight.
I know it seems counterintuitive to leave “wax” on for 24 hours, but this stuff isn’t a wax.
Once you have the color back, a coat of true wax will protect it.
If you find out the problem with this car was a fuse or fuel pump relay, please don’t tell me. I almost drove up to look at it a month ago, but was put off by lack of communication from the owner.
If it didn’t have the sunroof, I might have been more enthusiastic.
Thanks for the tip! Usually when you see the buffer swirl it's because they only did the first stage. It's a lot of work to do the job with all three stages of compound.
Black is the hardest of all and shows the swirls easier. Beautiful when it's clean though.
I feel your pain with communication with the seller. I could not make any form of contact with him at all but notice the body shop across the street in his FB add pics. I drove 2 hours in hopes of finding someone home but nobody there when I arrived. I left a note on the windshield of their car and finally received a text 3 days later. Usually I would blow them off after no initial contact but the car was close and I've always wanted an OB and the red over tan is ideal. I had to check it out.
11-25-2020, 10:57 AM
