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Great year! Great transmission! Great color!
You got a deal, but even better is that you got a deal on a car with great potential!
So what's the plan? Just clean it up & make it a reliable driver, or will you go a little further and bring it back to show condition?
Great year! Great transmission! Great color!
You got a deal, but even better is that you got a deal on a car with great potential!
So what's the plan? Just clean it up & make it a reliable driver, or will you go a little further and bring it back to show condition?
Thank you!
Just hoping fot a nice driver car. Weekends in the summer deal. I dont really have the money to bring it back to it's full glory, at least not all at once. I've got over 8 hours in cleaning it at this point but it's starting to pay off. Still need to work on the front but I'll get there.
Also, I've drained the fuel, changed the filter and added some fresh fuel but I don't believe the fuel pump is working. I tested the relay by swapping to horn location and the horn works now so I know the relay and the fuse are good.
The pump looks new, as if someone recently changed it out hoping for a fix. I need to test it somehow. Hate to hang another $200 pump on there if it's not the problem.
From here that paint correction is nothing short of a miracle, or at least it would be if you showed it to the PO. Nothing like good old single stage Guards Red.... Nice work!
its the fuel strainer that has gotten some of us in trouble. Plastic mesh in tank strainer screen disintegrates and enters fuel pump. Presumably tank sediment could then also.
I've cleared several by removing, then reversing polarity to back flush. Did one with CRC brake cleaner on a side of road rescue. That one worked a while, but it later failed.
Removing and replacing the strainer has risk of spinning the in tank receiving sleeve. I've done 6 or seven and haven't had that problem myself. (If it does spin, there is a fix developed recently.)
One option is to jumper the relay socket. That has to be done carefully, since doing it wrong can cause issues.
Another is to apply 12v directly to the pump. This can be done in place or on the bench. It's just a DC motor, so polarity isn't super important (wiring it backwards will just run it backwards).
Basic diagnostics would also include seeing if the pump is getting power when the motor is being cranked (or run).
Simple fuel pump test, get 10’ of wire, a toggle switch and 2 male 1/4” spade connectors and make a switched jumper.
Remove your fuel pump relay and determine terminals 30 (should be 12 volts with ignition on) and terminal 87 (power out to fuel pump).
Turn ignition on and check for 12v from 30 to 87 and from 30 to ground.
If yes, continue to next step, if no, check fuses
Disconnect the battery ground strap and hook jumper wires to 30 and 87.
Make sure jumper switch is off.
Reconnect ground strap.
Turn ignition to on and see it the fuel pump runs when you turn on the switch.
If yes, wiring to fuel pump and pump is ok.
If the fuel pumps runs, try cranking with fuel pump running to see if if the engine fires.
One option is to jumper the relay socket. That has to be done carefully, since doing it wrong can cause issues.
Another is to apply 12v directly to the pump. This can be done in place or on the bench. It's just a DC motor, so polarity isn't super important (wiring it backwards will just run it backwards).
Basic diagnostics would also include seeing if the pump is getting power when the motor is being cranked (or run).
Originally Posted by Billu
Simple fuel pump test, get 10’ of wire, a toggle switch and 2 male 1/4” spade connectors and make a switched jumper.
Remove your fuel pump relay and determine terminals 30 (should be 12 volts with ignition on) and terminal 87 (power out to fuel pump).
Turn ignition on and check for 12v from 30 to 87 and from 30 to ground.
If yes, continue to next step, if no, check fuses
Disconnect the battery ground strap and hook jumper wires to 30 and 87.
Make sure jumper switch is off.
Reconnect ground strap.
Turn ignition to on and see it the fuel pump runs when you turn on the switch.
If yes, wiring to fuel pump and pump is ok.
If the fuel pumps runs, try cranking with fuel pump running to see if if the engine fires.
Thanks everyone. I have a feeling the pump will work and it's not getting power from the car. I say this as it looks brand new, as if the last owner just tried it without knowing that was it. I'll find out though!
I’m not familiar with the LH system, as I have a K jet and an L jet, but from what I have read here, the LH controllers are know to fail.
Here is a link that is useful for Rennlist searches, works much better than the Rennlist search box.
Just delete everything prior to the word “site” and put in your search topic.
Seems to,work,best with google.
Euro rough idle K-jet site:rennlist.com inurl:928
The LH 2.2 in the S3 cars (and Euro S2s) is a pretty robust unit.
It's the LH 2.3 in the S4s and later that has the 'gonna fail sooner or later' issues.
It could still be the LH, just less likely that it's failed.
If it's failed, rebuilds are available. There are a couple places that are 'known & trusted' on here.
If I find the pump to be good but receiving no power from the car, is there a list of things to check to rule out before placing blame on the LH? Or is the LH the only thing left?
I noticed you said the tach didn't work. If cranking, does the tach bounce? If not, could be the crank position sensor. It kills everything if it can't see where the crank is so you'll say it has no spark or no fuel or no power at the fuel pump. This happened to Hans and his buddy recently, and it was a 5 speed 86.5 too. If you can find a loaner CPS, that would be best to see if that's your issue.
I noticed you said the tach didn't work. If cranking, does the tach bounce? If not, could be the crank position sensor. It kills everything if it can't see where the crank is so you'll say it has no spark or no fuel or no power at the fuel pump. This happened to Hans and his buddy recently, and it was a 5 speed 86.5 too. If you can find a loaner CPS, that would be best to see if that's your issue.
Interesting thought. The car will fire up and run on starting fluid, could it do that with a bad CPS?
Don't know if anyone is following this but i finished cleaning up the paint. This as good as it gets without spending money. The pictures hide a lot of defects but it sure looks a lot better.