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Old 03-30-2004, 01:50 PM
  #31  
Jadz928
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Normy,
Very cool! That is what I want to do to mine... It's a great update, simple and understated. Thanks for the pics.

to ill. the fan switch, do you have to cut anything out? Didn't look like the fan was translucent on mine. Also, does one bulb light the whole face of the HVAC? (other than the sliders)
Chuck,
My fan switch cap is translucent.
Yes, I'm going to drill 2 3mm holes in the ****, just on the outer edge of the mounting post, as in the pic.
Yes, there is one very small bulb for the whole thing... and 4 fiberoptic leads; 2 for the sliders, and 2 for the fan speed indicator (which is an over-engineered joke). I will install 1 led for the indicator as well.

So, I'm thinking 6-7 LEDs will be needed. I'm not sure if that many can be used on a single 12V series circuit. 12V / 6 leds = 2V per, which is close to the nominal Vf required. So I may not need a resistor.
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:51 PM
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Jim,

I'll be following you on this. I've got an old Euro head unit I'll use as a guinnea pig, before I start tearing into the one that's in the car.

Keep us updated!!
Old 03-31-2004, 10:00 PM
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I will, Chuck! Hopefully get going on it this weekend. ...been building a business website for a friend.
Old 04-21-2004, 04:06 AM
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Well, I finished updating the HVAC head to LEDs. I'm very pleased with the results. The project had been on hold awaiting LED shipment from SMI, a very good source.
For the main display, I made a custom light bar using (6) 5mm (2V) LEDs. No resistor needed.
For the fan switch, I used (2) 3mm (2V) LEDs. 440K resistor.
For the sliders, I made 2 pigtails using the 3mm LED and 440K resistor, each.
Some dremel work was needed to route the wires properly and ease assembly, but very little.
All in all, it was an enjoyable but tedious project.
Now I just need a really cool red display stereo deck to finish the look. Oh yea, and get rid of that lousy digital clock (ick, what were they thinking... your probably saying the same thing about me. hehe)

The pics aren't the best as my digicam sucks, but you'll get the idea.
Old 04-21-2004, 05:56 AM
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Jim, does the dimmer work at all with that setup?
Old 04-21-2004, 09:44 AM
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Jim,

Awesome job! I've been messing around with the spare head unit I had. Just took it apart last weekend just to see how it worked.

Did you use orange or red led's on the unit? Looks orange from the pics.
Also, is it way bright? Or just ok? I know when I put the led's in the pod controls I had to tone them down a bit with a perm. marker on the tips.

Again, great job, what an awesome upgrade!
Old 04-21-2004, 12:07 PM
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Sharkskin,
I don't think the dimmer will work. I think it is possible to wire it to work (using a variable resistor?).

Chuck,
Thanks! They are definitely red (660nM). The slider ***** and face are just the right brightness. I need to dim the fan switch though.
Since I wasn't planning to use the stock dimmer, I decided to control light output using the MCD rating on the LEDs. Most of the LEDs I found were either way too low (radioshack @ 30mcd), or way too high (ricerlight.com @ 4000mcd). So I was happy to find SMI. The 5mm LEDs are 500-600mcd. The 3mm in the fan switch is 400-500mcd. The 3mm in the sliders is 2500mcd.
Btw, I found a neat way to install the 3mm LED in the slider **** without modifying it (ie. drilling out the hole and countersinking the bulb). Also, no fasteners or glue required
Old 04-21-2004, 01:01 PM
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Thanks Jim... sweet setup! I'm thinking of doing this myself. Which holder did you use for the strip of 5mm LEDs?
Old 04-21-2004, 01:32 PM
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Sharkskin,
Thanks man! I used 1.5mm thick Styrene from a hobby shop, then cut it to fit. That stuff bends and holds it's shape well.
Old 04-21-2004, 04:57 PM
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Jim,

How'd you do your testing on the bulbs? DID you have a 12v source avail while you were doing your testing on the brightness of the entire display or what?
Old 04-21-2004, 05:01 PM
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Chuck,
I borrowed my friend's AC to DC 12V converter. It really helped the design process.



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