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1986.5 Garnet Red S3 Auto inbound/rehab thread

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Old 01-17-2021, 10:11 PM
  #31  
NewToPig
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Originally Posted by Landseer
Can you say more about your solution to the fuel regulator/damper situation. What kit do you have in your hands?

Thanks
Hey Landseer! No kit! Just brute force nonacceptance of a $1500 mess of a fuel system on these. What I put together requires a little modification. There is someone working on direct replacement FPR/damper housings for the 928 that uses standard VW/Audi/Ford top hats but maybe not ready for months. I went with Radium parts and modified the pass through damper to be a three way like the stocker and will be modifying their combo FPR & damper to delete the driver side rear damper and use the combo unit on the passenger rear rail. It then connects with a similar U hose. It should all work and if it does, its a $420 total AND has replacable diaphrams. Currently, ALL my stock dampers push fuel into the manifold which is incredibly dangerous. The only wear part in the stock units is the rubber diaphram. Plus it will give me the ability to move to the S4 fueling program without buying another part later. Currently, the engine is entirely unknown so I don't want to sink too much into it before confirming its worth saving (compression test and thrust measurement eight ball points towards yes).

http://www.radiumauto.com/FPR-D-Fuel...per-P1716.aspx
http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse...Kits-P751.aspx

I do think you could adapt the http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse...tyle-P300.aspx to the M12 end of the test port rail, omit the three way damper for a tee and just run the combo in the back. That would be about $375 total. But don't tell anyone here. The 928 operates under different physics.
Old 01-17-2021, 10:15 PM
  #32  
Wisconsin Joe
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Originally Posted by NewToPig
Gauge will stay until FPR is set and engine runs well (and doesn't have some other issue). Then it will go back to reset for porken chip if needed. Unless you can translate the rotational torque needed to achieve the correct psi. I have no empirical data needed for such endeavor.

Good to hear. Some folks think its ok to leave them in permanently.
Old 01-18-2021, 12:25 PM
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Thank you!
I forsee the day when I need to upgrade.
Up til now I've had a handful of salvage spares. But it's getting thin. Sometimes I can substitute 944 parts for fuel or various emissions valves. I had a 84 euro with an adjustable FPR, but it used original dampers.

Joe may be referencing a situation where some of us were leaving a fuel gauge installed at end of rail. There was a failure, so that stopped.

Folks here have also substituted complete computer setups. Dont feel bad about modding, unless its otherwise pristine.
Old 01-19-2021, 11:17 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Landseer
Joe may be referencing a situation where some of us were leaving a fuel gauge installed at end of rail. There was a failure, so that stopped.

Folks here have also substituted complete computer setups. Dont feel bad about modding, unless its otherwise pristine.
Yes. That's exactly what I meant.

Leaving a glass faced fuel pressure gauge attached to the motor under the hood permanently is a recipe for disaster.

And I fully agree with the idea that many of us are going to have to find suitable substitutes for some of the factory stuff.

Volvo motor mounts are the first thing that comes to mind, but there are others.
Old 01-19-2021, 11:10 PM
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I'm in the process of fitting a Bosch fuel pressure sender, required by my Link Thunder ECU. It would be quite easy to fit a gauge in the cabin to read this output.
Bosch also do a Temp/Press combined unit. I have one of these for my engine oil.
Old 01-20-2021, 02:09 AM
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woops . . . wrongg thread!
With the instrument cluster, there is a guy at Strathalbyn that has done a few for me and he is good.

Last edited by ramcram; 01-21-2021 at 01:56 AM.



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