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That looks restorable to me.
What caught my eye is the lack of a rear spoiler.
Even more, whoever removed it also went to the trouble of putting a seal and trim in the rear quarter windows from either a pre-spoiler model or an '87 or later model.
The holes from the original spoiler are filled, but there are two holes on each side of the hatch, which makes me wonder if they put an S4 spoiler or some other "wing" spoiler on there at some point, and it has been removed.
-Jason
Thanks Carlos! I will post the picture of the wing shortly. I may leave the car with an OB butt for now and just plug the holes since they swapped out the rear glass trim already.
Some updates:
3D printed some intake caps until everything is sorted. I'm conflicted on it but I modeled two holes in each cap as a vacuum relief in csse someone tries to start the car. The caps are strong but 3d parts can fracture along layer lines.
Did the requisite german Noxema treatment
Removed the failed window tint with a heat gun and cleaned up the residue with alcohol
Pulled the sunroof apart and cleaned the tubes/cables/motor. Of course the guides broke from age... but it works now
Printing (2) test guides. Scoured the internet but didn't see where these were already made.
Also replaced the driver side window motor and cleaned both window switches. Both windows work now.
Next step is getting the 82 off the lift so I can track down the flex plate/TT noise before trying to start the car.
I wound up printing sunroof "feet" as well in petg. I think you may be able to buy them, but I wanted them that day to put it back together. They've held up fine for at least a year now, granted I don't use the sunroof much.
I wound up printing sunroof "feet" as well in petg. I think you may be able to buy them, but I wanted them that day to put it back together. They've held up fine for at least a year now, granted I don't use the sunroof much.
Thanks Captain, they are available for $3 in Germany and $19 stateside each. More or less, same as you, I need servicable parts just to put back together for now. I can always swap them in the summer when I pull the roof apart again. Plus I think its good practice to have the STLs ready to go when more stuff goes NLA.
Can we start a 928 STL thread? I have a terrible time finding the older threads (bumper plugs etc) and the 944 guys have done a better job it seems. Or start a collection on thingiverse.
Because all great bad decisions are made late at night through Make Offer...... ->
Well done. It looks a heap better than mine when it arrived. Very sad sight Complete with flat tyre
I've had 3 86.5 ROW cars, plus 80, 81 and 94 but these are my favorite.
I recently sold one of the others to fund this one, OTTO, [over the top overhaul]. It was nice to have a complete one to go to like a living PET.
Keep them aliive!
My eventual goal is one 85 ROW 16v car. That seems to be the sweet spot. Thanks for sharing.
Originally Posted by ramcram
Well done. It looks a heap better than mine when it arrived.
Complete with flat tyre
I've had 3 86.5 ROW cars, plus 80, 81 and 94 but these are my favorite.
I recently sold one of the others to fund this one, OTTO, [over the top overhaul]. It was nice to have a complete one to go to like a living PET.
Keep them aliive!
Still need to redo the fuel dampers/regulators but started tracking down a metallic sound while cranking it. The sound is like a piece of metal falling. Rotating by hand its more like a click and it is directly over the cats. I removed the bellhousing cover and there was about 4mm of preload at the clamp into the flex plate. Released that and set up a dial gauge on the crank. Now this is the first time I have ever done the thrust bearing check but it seems like I have 0.007" play between forward and back. I say that because I have the dial on the flywheel but if the flywheel spins a little it changes the center point a hair. But there is a very discerning thud as the crank moves forward and back. The dial may go past 0.007" in one direction but rests back at that number when the pressure is release from the flat bar. So good news there.
Back to the metallic sound, I have not heard failed torque tube bearings before. What do they sound like beyond "the whirling of a bad bearing" which is a descriptor while the engine is running no doubt.
Whirring or vibration usually at some level of RPM.
Lot of relatively simple related things can cause.
Turn TT input end by hand, how does that feel?
Rear pinch bolt, bad bearings, rear flexplate rivets, TC bearings all suspect.
Also there is an assembly spacer in between the two rear TC bearings..
Have only seen it once, but had a worn/spun one create an unbelivable squalling racket.
Patience, if not in engine, and hopefully not some weird trans failure, you will end up winning because the solution may require some disassembly but will be doable!
I too really like the color. Let us know what you find
The sound is directly over top of the cats. Since the thrust bearing is good I will probably focus back on the engine and getting it running just to isolate other issues. Its kind of one of those, before I make this thing not roll, do I park it on the lift and block the whole garage for the winter or roll it to the side and leave it on the lift bars? I suspect I would enjoy RR the TT better on the lift than on my back.
Much thanks
Originally Posted by Landseer
Whirring or vibration usually at some level of RPM.
Lot of relatively simple related things can cause.
Turn TT input end by hand, how does that feel?
Rear pinch bolt, bad bearings, rear flexplate rivets, TC bearings all suspect.
Also there is an assembly spacer in between the two rear TC bearings..
Have only seen it once, but had a worn/spun one create an unbelivable squalling racket.
Patience, if not in engine, and hopefully not some weird trans failure, you will end up winning because the solution may require some disassembly but will be doable!
I too really like the color. Let us know what you find
Some progress today. Emboldened by the thrust bearing measurements, I resumed on the fuel system. Given it costs 1/2 a cheap 928 to replace two dampers and a regulator, I went a different route. Front damper is done and moving on to the rear. Though I needed to order another fitting to make it all work in the back. Also started mapping out the intake refresh. So. Many. Little. Brittle. Parts.
Please tell me you don't plan on leaving that gauge in place on the engine.
Gauge will stay until FPR is set and engine runs well (and doesn't have some other issue). Then it will go back to reset for porken chip if needed. Unless you can translate the rotational torque needed to achieve the correct psi. I have no empirical data needed for such endeavor.
11-08-2020, 11:28 AM
