Double Clutch Judder
#1
Double Clutch Judder
How much judder is too much for the double clutch on an OB?
I generally get none, but every once in a while I will experience some after the car is warm and I slightly slip the clutch a bit more than normal (like when going up a steep driveway).
Is a tiny bit of occasional judder normal or should there never be any on these early manual cars? I’m trying to get a gauge of whether or not I should go back in to the trans and readjust the intermediate plate. I did a clutch refresh (including two new clutch discs) on her about 7 months ago.
I generally get none, but every once in a while I will experience some after the car is warm and I slightly slip the clutch a bit more than normal (like when going up a steep driveway).
Is a tiny bit of occasional judder normal or should there never be any on these early manual cars? I’m trying to get a gauge of whether or not I should go back in to the trans and readjust the intermediate plate. I did a clutch refresh (including two new clutch discs) on her about 7 months ago.
#2
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 762
Likes: 66
From: South Cackalacky - 86.5 928 5 speed, 86.5 auto project
Sounds like the opposite of what I get. I get some chattering initially after the car has sat a while (noticeably backing out of the driveway) but normally is gone by the time I get to the main road. My clutch is some spec (stage 2 maybe?) that came with the trans.
#3
Unfortunately I don’t have a baseline of knowledge with these cars and this transmission as to what’s acceptable and what isn’t.
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islaTurbine (10-06-2020)
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#8
#9
When the clutch was installed, were the balance marks placed opposite each other? I also think a worn torque tube that connects the splined short shaft to the transmission will do this type of hopping or judder during engagement. Though mine has the Z06 6-speed in it, it does this and I believe it's because I need to replace the bearings in my torque tube as others have had to do with this transmission swap.
#10
When the clutch was installed, were the balance marks placed opposite each other? I also think a worn torque tube that connects the splined short shaft to the transmission will do this type of hopping or judder during engagement. Though mine has the Z06 6-speed in it, it does this and I believe it's because I need to replace the bearings in my torque tube as others have had to do with this transmission swap.
#11
#12
You're right about that. I thought he was referring to the intermediate plate and the flywheel. The two that I installed were pin-centered units from an early 80's car but in very good condition. They appeared to have some very faded marks white marks on them so I did my best to offset those marks not knowing if they actually meant anything. The brand new pressure plate had zero balancing marks like the clutch discs, though.
#13
You're right about that. I thought he was referring to the intermediate plate and the flywheel. The two that I installed were pin-centered units from an early 80's car but in very good condition. They appeared to have some very faded marks white marks on them so I did my best to offset those marks not knowing if they actually meant anything. The brand new pressure plate had zero balancing marks like the clutch discs, though.
"Balance" (or lack thereof) will not be your issue.
Last edited by GregBBRD; 10-07-2020 at 09:08 PM.
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islaTurbine (10-07-2020)
#14
My first attempt at this was when I installed the new transmission and I thought I had properly used Porsche’s method stipulated in the WSM. This left me with an occasional judder (similar to what I get now) and the transmission would occasionally not want to go into reverse (though there was no grinding sounds or vibrations). So I then readjusted the tabs on the IP to be equidistant on both the front and rear sides as some had previously posted on the forum that this method worked better for them than the WSM method.
I guess this time I’ll go back to the WSM method of simply pulling the tabs all the way to the rear. If that doesn’t do the trick then I’ll likely have to seek out Howard Wright or someone similar to get it dialed in.
I guess this time I’ll go back to the WSM method of simply pulling the tabs all the way to the rear. If that doesn’t do the trick then I’ll likely have to seek out Howard Wright or someone similar to get it dialed in.
#15
You might be better off removing the swages that hold the H plates and use small bolts to hold them in place,
Like Mark Kibort did .
NOTE for the amount you drive the car having these self adjust is not a primary concern and if the swages are weak they will never stay where you put them.
That said does the car see long periods of non use?
is the area where its parked a humid area?.
Is it parked over a grassy surface?
If so its possible the clutch could be rusting from temperature swings and humid air and non use,
this could cause corrosion on the friction plates and the splined shaft.
I hope you didnt use too much spline lube when putting the clutch together this could get flung off and contaminate the friction surfaces
Like Mark Kibort did .
NOTE for the amount you drive the car having these self adjust is not a primary concern and if the swages are weak they will never stay where you put them.
That said does the car see long periods of non use?
is the area where its parked a humid area?.
Is it parked over a grassy surface?
If so its possible the clutch could be rusting from temperature swings and humid air and non use,
this could cause corrosion on the friction plates and the splined shaft.
I hope you didnt use too much spline lube when putting the clutch together this could get flung off and contaminate the friction surfaces