husker boxster

1987 S4 automatic

Problem 1: The only gauge that works on the dash is the fuel gauge. While replacing the odometer gear, I made sure the plug connections were clean, along with the removable nuts on the back of the pod. Was hoping they would work when I reassembled, but no. Is there anything I can check or is there a break in the grid at a very crucial place?

Problem 2: I'm not sure how long this has been going on, whether it was already before I took the dash apart or occurred after, but the light that illuminates the dash is permanently on. Turning the wheel on the underside of the dash (right side) has no effect. It was by accident that I found this as I wanted to test the brake lights. I leave the negative cable off the battery because something (this issue?) would run it down. So I'm in a dark garage and hook up the battery. The dash lights up. Ahah! But it won't dim or shut off with the wheel. Any ideas on how to attack this?

Petza914

First, make sure the rheostat wheel under the dash is even in the circuit. It's not uncommon for the wheel to have issues and for owners to connect the two wires and jumper it out which makes the lights full bright all the time.

Mrmerlin

check the fuses for the pod gauges

husker boxster

Good suggestion. I've actually checked all 44 fuses twice. The first time I removed 5 at a time, sanded the spades with an emery board, then sprayed them and the sockets with deoxit. Checked them a 2nd time but none were blown. I tested and cleaned many of the relays but concentrated on start related ones. I'll see if there's an instrument relay and check it.

What's unusual is I took her out for a neighborhood drive yesterday. I know there are rear turn signal sockets that need replacing but I used the turn signals once on my drive and the little gauges on the right side of the pod jumped up and down. Don't know what that means in the grand scheme but thought I'd add it to the thread.

Alan

Don't ever do this, counter productive and can cause damage to the fuse-holders. Chemically clean OR if you aren't sure of provenance anyway - just buy new (small price to pay for certainty). Buy only Bussman or Littelfuse brands - cheap Chinese fuses are of very dubious quality (dimensions, plating material, accuracy of fuse rating, thermal quality of molding material). Top quality fuses are not very expensive - don't skimp here.

How did you check them - visually or electrically? Visual is not a conclusive thing, so don't bother, go straight to ohming them out.

Do all your lights work properly?

Alan

husker boxster

I checked them visually.

The headlights work.

Alan

OK so don't check them visually - use a DMM. I suspect the lighting connection for your dash is not correct - the dash illuminates brightly with ignition on and all lights off. The variable lighting (via rheostat) is only enabled with markers lights (or more) lights on.
Does the console illuminate with lights on e.g. HVAC, clock, ashtray? Check especially fuse 44.

Alan

Wisconsin Joe

The dash gauge jumping up & down with the turn signals is typical.

The one on the far right is the volt meter. It's seeing the voltage drop as the lights come on.