Scratches on cylinder bore
03-18-2004, 01:33 PM
#31
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Originally posted by Tony
Four letter principle : "KISS"
Throw it all back together with some stock machined pistons yielding 8.7-9.1:1 CR, a good multi layer gasket, new gaskets, bearings, seals where applicable , run low teens boost and be done with it all. Put the money you save into a rear fender project so you can run 315s and add LSD
The sleeving is an ambitious project with many unknowns on this motor, but if those scratches are the reason for sleeving, save your money. IMHO. I thought you had a toasted block or something? I found a couple of scratches in my cylinders and assoc piston skirt but the great thing is, i did a leak down prior to tear down and the strongest cylinder was the one with the scratches!! ..so go figure!!
Four letter principle : "KISS"
Throw it all back together with some stock machined pistons yielding 8.7-9.1:1 CR, a good multi layer gasket, new gaskets, bearings, seals where applicable , run low teens boost and be done with it all. Put the money you save into a rear fender project so you can run 315s and add LSD
The sleeving is an ambitious project with many unknowns on this motor, but if those scratches are the reason for sleeving, save your money. IMHO. I thought you had a toasted block or something? I found a couple of scratches in my cylinders and assoc piston skirt but the great thing is, i did a leak down prior to tear down and the strongest cylinder was the one with the scratches!! ..so go figure!!
03-18-2004, 01:53 PM
#32
Three Wheelin'
Originally posted by David Floyd
I agree with Tony, with sleeving there is a chance you could still be having issues a year later just like me.
I agree with Tony, with sleeving there is a chance you could still be having issues a year later just like me.
Originally posted by BrendanCampion
If I go that direction, I go all the way. I'm sure people understand this.
If I go that direction, I go all the way. I'm sure people understand this.
03-18-2004, 02:05 PM
#34
Three Wheelin'
Originally posted by David Floyd
11% blow-by since new, all 4 cylinders.
11% blow-by since new, all 4 cylinders.
Why do you think your problem is sleeve related, versus the wrong end gaps on the rings, or not broken in, etc?
03-18-2004, 02:27 PM
#35
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Originally posted by Lagavulin
That doesn't sound like a problem directly related to a sleeve though. For whatever reason, the rings are not sealing in the bore.
Why do you think your problem is sleeve related, versus the wrong end gaps on the rings, or not broken in, etc?
That doesn't sound like a problem directly related to a sleeve though. For whatever reason, the rings are not sealing in the bore.
Why do you think your problem is sleeve related, versus the wrong end gaps on the rings, or not broken in, etc?
I am about to tear back into the engine and install new rings myself and check all gaps.
My point was the further away from stock you get, the more likely a problem "could" occur, my sleeves are Rolls Royce chromo verses the more standard Darton ductle iron.
03-18-2004, 03:10 PM
#36
Three Wheelin'
Originally posted by David Floyd
.. the builder used Redline assembly lube on the rings, DOHHHHHHHH!!! 10k miles so I think it is broken in ???????
.. the builder used Redline assembly lube on the rings, DOHHHHHHHH!!! 10k miles so I think it is broken in ???????
Originally posted by David Floyd
My point was the further away from stock you get, the more likely a problem "could" occur, my sleeves are Rolls Royce chromo verses the more standard Darton ductle iron.
My point was the further away from stock you get, the more likely a problem "could" occur, my sleeves are Rolls Royce chromo verses the more standard Darton ductle iron.
03-18-2004, 03:27 PM
#37
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Thread Starter
I will let David answer your question on his terms Lag, but to sleeve a 928 block its looking like about 2500. That will net you a 106mm bore, with Ductile iron sleeves T-sleeves into the existing bores. About 3-4mm I believe, is left of the orginal bore, and another 2mm or so of ductile sleeve is there in the bore. The top is LEDGED to that it sits ON TOP of the bore tower as we see it in my pics above. The bore tower is cut down *that* much to recieve this.
03-18-2004, 03:53 PM
#38
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Originally posted by Lagavulin
I agree, but that set of circumstances would ruin the chance of any cylinder material and ring combo to seat/seal correctly. How much did the sleeving cost?
I agree, but that set of circumstances would ruin the chance of any cylinder material and ring combo to seat/seal correctly. How much did the sleeving cost?
Brendan is that a Motor Werks price ? Thats where my engine builder had my sleeving done, they do good work from what I here.
03-18-2004, 04:14 PM
#39
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Thread Starter
Yes David, thats Motorworks. Mike is the guy's name there. I think he said the 4cyl were 1500.
This is the same place that has a sunnen machine and can re-surface alusil blocks back to OEM.
This is the same place that has a sunnen machine and can re-surface alusil blocks back to OEM.
03-18-2004, 04:42 PM
#40
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Heck, just about *everyone* has a supercharged s4 nowadays!
Why bother with "just" 500 horsepower?
Even NA people have that!
You need to raise the bar.
M O N S T E R ! (Monster Garage!)
(joking around people!)
sort of.
So what is the big delay in doing the big sleeved motor?
Are you waiting for parts?
Why bother with "just" 500 horsepower?
Even NA people have that!
You need to raise the bar.
M O N S T E R ! (Monster Garage!)
(joking around people!)
sort of.
So what is the big delay in doing the big sleeved motor?
Are you waiting for parts?
03-18-2004, 06:14 PM
#41
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by Tony
Four letter principle : "KISS"
Throw it all back together with some stock machined pistons yielding 8.7-9.1:1 CR, a good multi layer gasket, new gaskets, bearings, seals where applicable , run low teens boost and be done with it all. Put the money you save into a rear fender project so you can run 315s and add LSD
The sleeving is an ambitious project with many unknowns on this motor, but if those scratches are the reason for sleeving, save your money. IMHO. I thought you had a toasted block or something? I found a couple of scratches in my cylinders and assoc piston skirt but the great thing is, i did a leak down prior to tear down and the strongest cylinder was the one with the scratches!! ..so go figure!!
Four letter principle : "KISS"
Throw it all back together with some stock machined pistons yielding 8.7-9.1:1 CR, a good multi layer gasket, new gaskets, bearings, seals where applicable , run low teens boost and be done with it all. Put the money you save into a rear fender project so you can run 315s and add LSD
The sleeving is an ambitious project with many unknowns on this motor, but if those scratches are the reason for sleeving, save your money. IMHO. I thought you had a toasted block or something? I found a couple of scratches in my cylinders and assoc piston skirt but the great thing is, i did a leak down prior to tear down and the strongest cylinder was the one with the scratches!! ..so go figure!!
I just checked out my pistons tony, and as you may read in my PM to you, I have a larger skirt than your picture shows, AND I think the top of th episton may be thinner then your other thread pics show. I only have eight, so I will not be cutting them in half or anything, so....
Maybe I won't go as deep as you did. But I have pretty much decided to go the slap it together way.
I will get another bare block and start on a 6.6L engine with sleeved and stroked internals, deck plate and all. Its still going to take a while for me to put this thing together, but it will be more... "attainable" I think. I'm still happy I took it apart though.
03-18-2004, 06:42 PM
#42
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Thanks Sterling.
03-19-2004, 06:51 PM
#43
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I share your impatience...my stroker project just took another hit when my new wrench quit to open up his own shop - "eventually"... meantime my 1/2 done project is in limbo...shop owner offered to trailer it for free whereever I wanted, since he won't be doing porsches anymore... hope they don't lose any parts....
I'd just put it together and run it...call it a prototype - if it blows, you'll know what not to do on your next pass...
any idea how big an 85/86 CAN be bored on a NA 10.5:1 compression motor?
I'd just put it together and run it...call it a prototype - if it blows, you'll know what not to do on your next pass...
any idea how big an 85/86 CAN be bored on a NA 10.5:1 compression motor?
