85euro928

I'm looking to drop the height of my engine in the bay by about 1/2 to 3/4". I did a search but was unable to find any definitive info. Does anyone know the actual difference in height the engine will sit if using the OEM vs the Volvo vs the Anchor MM's?
Thanks.

dimi5928

Thom, by my experience on changing motor mounts on my 928's, crossmember and oil pan are the same level with OEM and Anchor
With Volvo mounts the oil pan sits 3/4" higher from crossmember.

Adamant1971

I just put Volvo mounts in an 86.5. I can take measurements if that will help. They are taller than OEM for sure.

GregBBRD

From the reactions I get, on this Forum, I must be the only person on the planet that thinks buying a magnificent handling car and raising the heaviest parts in the entire car 3/4 of an inch is absolutely absurd.
Porsche made the fenders and the front hood out of aluminum. They made the intake manifold out of magnesium. All to reduce the weight above the roll center.
Fantastic idea to move 1,000 lbs up 3/4 of an inch? Might as well have made those fenders, hood, and intake manifold out of cast iron.

I wouldn't install a set of Volvo mounts, if the parts people were giving them away, for free.
There's a limit to "cheap"....and that is one of my limits.

Adamant1971

^ Agree 100%

On this car Volvo mounts were requested. I also don’t like the hardware they come with, it’s just not up to snuff with OEM.

jcorenman

Thom, we've got Anchor solid-rubber mounts on our GT courtesy of a couple PO's ago-- which makes it pre-2008 by some years. I think the bottom of the oil pan sits around 1/4" below the lower cross-member. I can measure it tomorrow-- the belly pan happens to be off at the moment. The mounts are still rubbery and not charcoal in spite of sitting next to headers, and the engine still wiggles, no metal-on-metal noises. And smoother and quieter than our S4 on (refreshed) factory mounts. If you can find solid-rubber Anchor mounts then that might be the best option.

From wandering through the Rennlist stacks, I think the Anchor mounts went off the rails when they had the [not-so] brilliant idea to change to liquid-filled 'hydraulic' mounts like all the big kids were doing. I don't know if anything resembling the original solid-rubber Anchor mounts are still available, but I am guessing that if they were then Roger would be offering them.

The only mounts that might be lower are solid mounts, good for race cars but not so nice for the street. Or maybe Hans' mounts, but I am not sure what the current status is. Those are/were modular mounts with interchangeable polyurethane inserts.

Mrmerlin

If you get a set of Hans mounts then you can change the isolators to change the engine height.
I have installed 3 sets and they do transmit more vibration compared to the Porsche mounts. its not a lot but it is noticable
That said i have not heard any issues with them changing the original installed height and its been about 5 years or so

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ht=hans+mounts

Pagnobito

I made the mistake of using Volvo mounts which led to an indent of the oil cap in the hood liner foam and vibration as one of the safety plates moved on one side and was touching the cross member. I have not experienced Anchor mounts.
Going back to OEM was a good decision. The engine sits at the correct height and the vibration has gone.

I'm not sure by how much you can drop the engine, it's not far above the cross member in the first place.

85euro928

Thanks everyone, this helps. I currently have Volvo mounts installed and the engine sits pretty high but I can't tell how much above OEM as one, I didn't measure it when I changed the mounts a few year back, and two, the mounts I had before were Carl's solid metal mounts.

Adam, If you could measure from the top of the cross member to the underside of the pan that would be a huge help.

Jim, I found a pair of Anchor mounts so they're still available. They're listed as solid, not hydraulic but just in case I've reached out to the seller to confirm. Regarding Hans' mounts he was the first person I reached out to but he doesn't have any more in stock although he may be doing another run in the future. BTW, the solid metal mounts actually worked well and I never really noticed the vibration. They were also easy to install and gave a lot of room around the bottom of the engine but alas they were solid.

Thanks again.

Strosek Ultra

There are several types of Volvo Motor Mounts available. The mostly used is Volvo Part no. 1378657 (soft - marked green).
I have the Porsche Mounts in the red car, they were changed for more than 20 years ago.
I have the Volvo green Mounts in the blue car, changed earlier this year.
The engine in the blue car sits about 3mm higher than in the red car. I have added a 2mm washer to the Volvo Mounts and if the washers are removed the hight will be almost exactly the same.
No abnormal vibrations when driving the car can be felt. Not from the Motor Mounts, nor from the shifting mechanism modified with bronze bushings both front and rear.
The front cross member in the pictures is modified to allow a deeper oil pan.
Åke

ROG100

Proof is in the pudding - thousands fitted and not one reported issue.
Fitted to all my cars 83 to 95 - no noticeable difference in height once they settle (as with the Porsche mounts).
I have personally fitted over 100 sets.
As long as you use the tether and remove the large thick washer from the bottom the height is the same as the factory within 1mm.
This is one modification that works and way better then the old stock, expensive, failure prone Porsche supplied mount.
The great point is that you have a choice - you choose - the vast majority use the Volvo mounts. Not all Volvo mounts are the same so if you purchase your own be careful what you buy.
We have been selling the correct Volvo mount for over 10 years now.

FredR

This is precisely my experience with the Volvo mounts. With Roger's EIS inlet system there is no margin for additional headroom and initially clearance was a bit tight and then they settled down as they invariably do. My experience with the stock mounts here is that they last about 5 years and then they are toast. The Volvo mounts are now 5 years old and still going strong and my motor is running as smooth as it ever has. If they fail tomorrow I would think at the price point Roger offered them they would have more than paid for themselves considering the OEM item cost which I understand are now silly $$$'s.

GregBBRD

You guys, with the "life" of a stock mount are so funny!
You've turned the stock mounts, which work perfectly for many, many years, into another Internet Myth, just like the stock belt tensioner.

I still "see" original stock mounts, all these years later. I even still leave good ones in!
I've yet to need to "go back" and replace a set of mounts the second time....never.

Yes, you have to smart enough to install the cooling ducts that Porsche made for the mounts, but eliminating something that Porsche clearly made for a purpose is....pretty thick headed.

You guys do you....
I'll keep doing it correctly.

ROG100

We all have different experiences but I would never call someone "thick headed" for using something that works and is better than the original.
That is like saying that someone who pays you a zillion $ to upgrade an already good stock engine is "thick headed". Same situation and worth the effort and money for something better than original.
I know you do not like aftermarket parts like MM's and the PKT and I can live with that 110% - but to say that someone who wants an aftermarket crank, pistons or intake on their upgraded 928 engine is "thick headed' is pushing it a bit 8>.
We do need to think out of the box on parts - there are some 100 sets of Porsche MM's left at circa $700 a pair. Once they are gone they may be NLA or they may come back at $700 each.
$700 buys 7 sets of Volvo mounts - just saying.
We have options which is a great position to be in. Volvo, Anchor, Hans MM and, god forbid, a 928MS solid metal mount 8>

85euro928

Sorry if I wasn't clear I didn't start this thread to see which mount works best I just want to know which one is the shortest so I can lower my engine a little to provide clearance for a project I'm working on. So far OEM is lower than Volvo mounts anywhere from 3mm with the washers to 1mm without or maybe even 3/4" (depending on who you talk to). I won't be able to get my car up in air till next weekend but when I do I will measure to see the relationship of the pan to the cross member (I have Volvo mounts) to see how it compares with Jim's 1/4".
Thanks all.