Yes, that's the hose and connection. With all the plugs being the same, that kind of rules out a problem in the fuel distributor, which is the next problematic area, unless the problem in it is the adjustment for fuel pressure that then goes out to all the ports, but that would effect your control pressure and WUR readings, which you said were good.

If the mixture is rich, with that hose disconnected and the idle screw where you have it, you might get a really high idle right when it starts - might want to be ready for that. Ideally it will idle by itself without you having to continue to pump the accelerator. That will tell us were on the right track and the mixture setting is just too rich since you also said the AAV tested fine.

 

So @Petza914 i disconnected the hose and started it up, complete different feeling. The idle went up and down, at around 55 sand 1.23 second i push the throttle. Killed it myself at the end. Also no smoke from the exhaust.



It idles around 15-1600 rpm but sounded not so good. So i think too it too rich?
Curious what you think...

Cheers,

Arjan

 

Yep, what we did was create a huge vacuum leak to allow a ton more air to get mixed in with the fuel that was being delivered and that seems to have been a much better ratio as the engine actually maintained itself running without you having to keep it running with the accelerator.

So now. put that hose back onto the AAV and lets lean out the mixture screw. Normally we only change it in about 1/8 of a turn increments, but by the amount of air we added with the hose off the AAV, I'd say we're more out than that. I'd lean it by 1/4 turn, then do another cold start and let's see where we are. We want to get to the point where we can fine tune it with the idle screw and that it runs right cold, warm, and when being driven.

 

@Petza914 again thx for the help...sorry next step will follow a bit later...I hope this weekend. The family needed some tlc 😁 cheers!

 

@Petza914 Turned the screw 1/4 more lean and started up. Took a bit more time to start but was better idling on its own. After warming up a bit i needed to help it to keep it running. After it stalled i could not start it again. So now waiting for a hour to try again with another 1/8 turn. Made a movie just for the sake of having a complete picture...Will report back later.

 

So, the cold start seems pretty good now, but the idle is really low as it warms up. Try increasing the idle screw as it starts warming up until you get it to idle smoothly, so instead of being in the car and blipoing the throttle, be under the hood with a long screwdriver at the idle screw. You can keep it running from there too by manually moving the throttle plate cam that the accelerator pedal cable is attached to.

Once it's warm, if you Rev it up to about 3k rpm or so, is it smooth and stable or does it stumble and miss when you try to maintain that rpm? Does it pop out the exhaust (lean) or tend to big down and not be responsive (rich).

 

@Petza914 I did another try this morning, basically another thing is that i can only start it up once. It then starts warming up and after it stops i can start it for several hours. I am afraid also today was the same patern, i started with the idle screw open 5,5 turns which is quite open i gues. If you look at the movie i made you see it starting good, then it starts to warm up and after a minute i already need top open the idle screw half turns. At around 3:45 i blip the throttle feels normal. But idle not higher then 450-500 rpm and the engine it is not really getting hot. After that i try to open the screw in small steps, but it wont get a higher idle. You also see the smoke right, white which is probably a lot of **** in the exhaust, but also a bit blue/black. At 7.22 it just dies (at the end i had the idle screw 11 turns open(!).

Really curious if you have any idea. I can try the cold start injector next i guess....

 

Unfortunately, I'm kind of out of ideas here. The idle screw should have some effect, but maybe not when it's that far out. The cold start seems like the best part and it's once it warms up that the problems occur. I think you said early on that you had verified your fuel pressures to be correct for the temperatures, but the symptoms here seem to point to maybe the WUR not managing the pressure correctly as it warms up. Maybe @jpitman or some others with more k-jet experience can chime in.

 

Thanks for the feedback @Petza914 I really appreciated the fact that you helped me through these steps. It helps so much that you are basically making sure i am not doing too stupid stuff because i am learning how the kjet system works I really need to go through everything again i am afraid. At this point i a suspecting my air meter plate is bent or something because that is about the only part i did not replace with new parts or professional refurbished stuff. The WUR should be perfect (and the tests i did a month ago also showed the right pressures for everything). I think i just have to start all over again. There is something seriously wrong at this point. I expect something is wrong that was not wrong when i started this procedure. Thats why it feels like chasing a ghost Will keep you posted when i find it , again thanks for all the help!

 

sorry to read about your CIS problems wopfe.... but the more i read threads like this , the more i believe in my Webers conversion

CIS is a "complex" system , now 40 years old.... i made a estimate , looking a Rose Passion , new parts from pump to injectors , will be around 8k €....and then you still have to get it dialed in .

I hope you find the problem and can solve it !

 

@Petza914 just for the sake of the argument i did a quick test if the the cold start injector gets current when cranking, it does
I will also try (later) to test if the injector closes after the crank stopped..I will report back later.

I did notice something else, that i think is next on my list. I had some backfires when working on it last weeks and i just noticed that the airflow sensor plate is not aligned correctly or even is not straight anymore. I did not yet dive into that (i will now) but that could maybe also causing this wierd behavioure, the end on the back of the car has a 0.14mm gap, the gap on the frontend of the car has about 1mm. I think that is not good...Check it out:

@belgiumbarry thanks for the psychological support, i will just work on it until i either find the solution or go bankrupt

 

So just for the sake of testing everything i unplugged the cold start injector and tested it. It gives a clear spray when cranking and when it starts it stop doing that. Works like expected, another one from the list


I will stop this thread, basically i think i now know how it should act if in a further normal situation, everybody thanks. I will open another post about my airmetering plate. Its one of the last things i did not double check or test or renewed.

Cheers,

Arie

 

I think you might be onto something with the metering plate not being square and why the idle adjustment doesn't really work. Im fairly certain mine moves level so would seal all the way around if the idle screw was adjusted to allow for that.

 

i wonder ... a not perfect aligned metering plate would allow more bypass air without telling the FD to give more fuel.... so it would be a lean condition , sure not rich ?

 

Hmmm, i think you could be right. That would mean it would run a higher idle. It does run fine when it starts cold and idles ok, warming up it dies because the idles just lowers until it cant turn over anymore, i opened the idle screw to 11 at the end last try. I think the question is now does the displacement cause such crazy behaviour that the normal procedures (with correct fuel pressures) do not work. I am trying to find out here at the moment: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ate-check.html
Thanks for thinking with me Neighbour!