New Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement Design
#16
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Bend, Oregon
Fred, that reminds me that the steel bubble-flare will be seating and sealing on the assumed-to-be-aluminum FPR body. That makes it a one-time-only seal. Kevin -- see if there's a way to put a steel piece there for the connections, on the off chance that someone will want to remove them and try to put them back someday.
#17
This already exists, maybe with custom screw in fittings it could be adapted?
https://kms.vankronenburg.nl/kms-fue...-an-6-hose-fit
https://kms.vankronenburg.nl/kms-fue...-an-6-hose-fit
#18
This already exists, maybe with custom screw in fittings it could be adapted?
https://kms.vankronenburg.nl/kms-fue...-an-6-hose-fit
https://kms.vankronenburg.nl/kms-fue...-an-6-hose-fit
#20
Fred, that reminds me that the steel bubble-flare will be seating and sealing on the assumed-to-be-aluminum FPR body. That makes it a one-time-only seal. Kevin -- see if there's a way to put a steel piece there for the connections, on the off chance that someone will want to remove them and try to put them back someday.
My assumption is that these type of joints only work with "like on like" metals and the torque is specified to avoid distortion and still seal the joint. These things obviously have to be undone to get the inlet manifold off.
When I looked into this figured that a solution would likely involve new fuel rails and conversion to the likes of AN fastenings at the delivery and return ends of the fuel system- something along the lines of the sub-system Carl offers at 928 Motorsports, add that to the cost of the regulators, dampers and associated piping mods that would be needed and the cost is probably going to be prohibitive even if the stock items cost "silly money".
Whether or not a steel seat could be built into Kevin's concept remains to be seen- that or make the adapter pieces out of steel.
#21
Random question -
Would it be possible to have some sort of 'bridge' piece that goes from the aluminum housing to another fitting that would attach to the lines in the car?
That way the 'bridge' could be removed & reattached without damaging the aluminum housing.
Edit to add:
This is a really, really cool idea.
I think it's great that the general design can be discussed and 'crowd sourced' on here. There's some folks on here that are really smart.
I understand the rules on advertising and selling stuff (and why they are what they are).
Glad that the 'powers that be' see the differences.
Would it be possible to have some sort of 'bridge' piece that goes from the aluminum housing to another fitting that would attach to the lines in the car?
That way the 'bridge' could be removed & reattached without damaging the aluminum housing.
Edit to add:
This is a really, really cool idea.
I think it's great that the general design can be discussed and 'crowd sourced' on here. There's some folks on here that are really smart.
I understand the rules on advertising and selling stuff (and why they are what they are).
Glad that the 'powers that be' see the differences.
#22
I know the Greg Brown sells steel AN adapters that connect to the factory hoses to allow you to make your own.
PM him and see if you can get the info for his guy over in Germany IIRC to make steel fitting that would screw into your proposed housing so they can retain the factory connections.
Also curious to see if they make other pressure rated regulators in that size that can be easily source i.e 2.5 bar 3.5 bar etc. It would make tuning and playing with fuel pressures a bit more approachable cost wise.
I'm sure you could also machine this housing so it has only 2 connections (or provide a plug) so you can use these in place of the dampers as well.
I'm sure people would line up for all 3 for $500 or so after you get a cottage license
PM him and see if you can get the info for his guy over in Germany IIRC to make steel fitting that would screw into your proposed housing so they can retain the factory connections.
Also curious to see if they make other pressure rated regulators in that size that can be easily source i.e 2.5 bar 3.5 bar etc. It would make tuning and playing with fuel pressures a bit more approachable cost wise.
I'm sure you could also machine this housing so it has only 2 connections (or provide a plug) so you can use these in place of the dampers as well.
I'm sure people would line up for all 3 for $500 or so after you get a cottage license
#23
I know the Greg Brown sells steel AN adapters that connect to the factory hoses to allow you to make your own.
PM him and see if you can get the info for his guy over in Germany IIRC to make steel fitting that would screw into your proposed housing so they can retain the factory connections.
PM him and see if you can get the info for his guy over in Germany IIRC to make steel fitting that would screw into your proposed housing so they can retain the factory connections.
A way to have a fitting on the housing that can be taken apart & reattached without damaging the aluminum housing.
#24
I guess I need to provide some additional information about these housings.
They will be anodized in .002" thick buildup using Hardcoat Anodize
I hope this puts to rest for the need for steels inserts and the like.
They will be anodized in .002" thick buildup using Hardcoat Anodize
I hope this puts to rest for the need for steels inserts and the like.
Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; 08-03-2020 at 03:05 PM.
#25
Prototypes
Prototypes will be ready to hard coat anodize later this week. Inserts have been used to verify fitment.
These are FPR and FPDs
Front Damper/Regulator Outside before 'sexing' to front damper
Rear Damper Outside
Rear damper inside
Front Damper/Regulator Inside before 'sexing' to front damper
These are FPR and FPDs
Front Damper/Regulator Outside before 'sexing' to front damper
Rear Damper Outside
Rear damper inside
Front Damper/Regulator Inside before 'sexing' to front damper
The following 4 users liked this post by Kevin in Atlanta:
#27
Prototypes will be ready to hard coat anodize later this week. Inserts have been used to verify fitment.
These are FPR and FPDs
Front Damper/Regulator Outside before 'sexing' to front damper
Rear Damper Outside
Rear damper inside
Front Damper/Regulator Inside before 'sexing' to front damper
These are FPR and FPDs
Front Damper/Regulator Outside before 'sexing' to front damper
Rear Damper Outside
Rear damper inside
Front Damper/Regulator Inside before 'sexing' to front damper
#28
I had 87 and up in mind. FPR and FPDs are meant for those. I believe, but have not confirmed they will fit other years.