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Howdy gang. I’m looking to get a quick diagnosis on the rack shaft. I’ve been reading that the rack should be replaced if significant corrosion exists, but I don’t know how to assess that myself. Attached are two photos of the rack shaft (I think that’s what it’s called) and I’m hoping someone can tell me if it’s salvageable or I need to replace. Passenger side of rack shaft. Opposite side of tooth-side rack shaft. Tooth side (driver side) of rack.
Howdy gang. I’m looking to get a quick diagnosis on the rack shaft. I’ve been reading that the rack should be replaced if significant corrosion exists, but I don’t know how to assess that myself. Attached are two photos of the rack shaft (I think that’s what it’s called) and I’m hoping someone can tell me if it’s salvageable or I need to replace. Passenger side of rack shaft. Opposite side of tooth-side rack shaft. Tooth side (driver side) of rack.
I can’t answer your question but you might be able to help me since yours is removed: Where is the build date stamped on your rack?
There is a fair bit of corrosion on that rack and it needs to be replaced.
ZF rebuild kits come with a new rack and the price reflects that. Put it back together and exchange it for a rebuilt one for the least amount of headaches going forwards.
There is a fair bit of corrosion on that rack and it needs to be replaced.
ZF rebuild kits come with a new rack and the price reflects that. Put it back together and exchange it for a rebuilt one for the least amount of headaches going forwards.
What he said. Last I checked a rebuilt one is ~$400 from 928intl. I KNOW you have more than in labor already taking yours apart....
What he said. Last I checked a rebuilt one is ~$400 from 928intl. I KNOW you have more than in labor already taking yours apart....
I can guarantee that for $400, 928 International is not selling rebuild racks from ZF....it's been a few years since I inquired about the price on a ZF rebuild, but they were over $1000, back then.
I'm pleased with the quality of 928 International's racks.
I just returned one of their rebuilt racks, as a core, which lasted about 3 years (past anyone's warranty period.)
That's the only one I've had fail in probably the same period of time.
For the amount of racks which I install, I think that is a good "track record".
Howdy gang. I’m looking to get a quick diagnosis on the rack shaft. I’ve been reading that the rack should be replaced if significant corrosion exists, but I don’t know how to assess that myself. Attached are two photos of the rack shaft (I think that’s what it’s called) and I’m hoping someone can tell me if it’s salvageable or I need to replace. Passenger side of rack shaft. Opposite side of tooth-side rack shaft. Tooth side (driver side) of rack.
The corrosion on your rack is past the area where the hydraulic seals function...your corrosion is in the actual rack and pinion section. This occurred because the boot on the driver's side had a leak and water got into this area. As long as the teeth are not damaged, you should be able to clean up that area (spin the shaft in a lathe and micro polish the surface with some 1" wide cloth backed 320) and continue your rebuild. That entire area (plus the pinion) need to be coated with Porsche high pressure grease, when you re-assemble.
I'd like to plug the rebuild service Roger offers. His service rebuilds the rack you send and includes delrin steering rack bushings.
I've had two of my racks done by him and am very pleased.
Of course if your rack has any corrosion maybe that's a negative. :-)
Getting your own rack back is a fantastic thing, if you've got a low mileage rack, or if your rack has the increased power steering assist ('91 on)!
I've been rebuilding these racks, in house, just to be able to keep the original rack for the client.
Unfortunately, while I can't rebuild a rack for $400, I'm not sure I can "live" with the downtime to send it back and forth to Texas.....
Update to end the thread here: managed to get a new rack from M. Anderson and the gang in Anaheim! I got it in and so far, so good!
The single biggest pain in the but for me was getting the rack and intermediary shaft connected - or even getting the U-joint off. If folks have difficulty, my recommendation is to carefully remove the ujoint using a gear-puller. It clamps nicely around the joint kunckles and can push against the business end of the shaft without damaging threads. If you go too far, the threaded end of the gear puller can impact the splines so pleaseeee don't do that. Hopefully this get's you started enough if the u-joint and shaft don't want to come away easily. Other's have recommended using a chisel or some wedge in the u-joint to spread the splines apart enough in order to remove, so ideally that's the way to go.
Mark the orientation of the cover plate with the arrow to the steering rack. You can then use the arrow to ensure that you put the spool valve back in the proper orientation to re-engage with the steering shaft u joint. My rack, original to the car, is oriented the same as yours.
Thank you Roger, much appreciated. Any suggestions on what spanner to use for this nut?
Yes - make one to suit (is what I did) ... as an option. A conventional C spanner is only going to locate on one (notch) at a time .... not such a good idea. Piece of pipe right diameter , a while with a grinder and a welder ..... not so hard. You could borrow mine , but I'm kind of far away !!
06-21-2020, 05:54 PM
928 Steering Rack Rebuild
