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One seriously tough nut to crack.

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Old 03-11-2004, 02:59 AM
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jserio
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Default One seriously tough nut to crack.

Okay, I busted (and I mean busted) a 1/2" drive rachet and a 1/2 drive breaker bar trying to crack the damn nut for the axels. Holy smoke they are hard. I had a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 4.5' pipe and it smoked that breaker bar. Now before I make a 3rd trip to Sears can you guys confirm

1) THe nuts does turn counter clockwise to loosen

2) There are no secret cotter pins in there or some little nut I am missing.

This sumbitch it daring me to get my dremmel.
Old 03-11-2004, 03:03 AM
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Lizard928
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no you are correct it is a regular castle nut with only cotter pin which is easily removed, however the nut is torqued on over 400ft lb
Old 03-11-2004, 03:19 AM
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It should be torqued to 339 ft-lbs upon reassembly.
Old 03-11-2004, 04:08 AM
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Tony
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A picture is worth a 1000 words. Thats how i did it

Let physics and gravity do the grunt work for ya.



Old 03-11-2004, 07:16 AM
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Barry Johnson
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Nice work Tony!
Will you be at DD this year again?
How do you get the guts out of the tensioner? I didn't want to ram anything out of there in fear of breaking something. Oh, and I noticed that the clamp for the boot was replaced with a zip tie. I'm sure its just as effective.... hahaha

Old 03-11-2004, 10:05 AM
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Gretch
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Get a 1" socket set.............?? I have 2 and they do come in handy.....Oh and BTW if you do get one, choose the 8 point sockets, they are much tougher than anything else.................
Old 03-11-2004, 10:19 AM
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Steve J.
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I used Tony's method. To keep the hub from turning, I threaded two of the lug nuts on to protect the threads and levered a crowbar between them with the other end against the floor. When tightening the axle nut, I used a two foot cheater with my weight on the end of it.
Old 03-11-2004, 04:08 PM
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SteveCo
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Joe;
Tony's technique is definitely elegant...I have not tried, but it looks like it will work fine. This is straight-forward nut...standard thread and no cotter pin hokey-pokey.

I tried the same 1/2" drive equipment last summer and was lucky only to bend the breaker bar! It is still usable, but in retrospect was way to small for the job. Back to Sears and purchased a 3/4" drive socket, 5" extension and 20" breaker bar...got it all on sale an 1/2 price!

With car on the ground and a 3ft iron pipe on the breaker, I still had to jump on the pipe to break the axle nut free. Very wierd feeling...like you are going to break something...until the nut turns and everything is OK.

I suggest you apply some penetrating oil to the nut in advance...not sure if this really helps, but it is feels like it does! Anyway, the 3/4" drive stuff is the gear for this job.

Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
Old 03-11-2004, 04:39 PM
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Vilhuer
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Have used Tony's trick many times before and usually it works. If nut is so tight as it was (and still is) in GTS you're in trouble. All what happened was suspension compressed so much that whole rear of the car started to lift up. Couldn't get them to open while two men where standing on 6 feet long bar either. Now entire rear suspension is on the floor in one piece. Wanted to get it out of the way. Will take care of it later.

Erkka

1992 928 GTS most nuts never before opened
Oak Green Metallic 22L
Classic Gray MX
Old 03-11-2004, 04:43 PM
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dr bob
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Hi Joe--

I danced this dance a while ago, and ended up at the cheap Chinese tool store (aka Harbor Freight) and biught a set of 3/4" drive metric sockets. A also got a 3/4" drive impact gun that was worth just a little less than what I paid for it... But anyway, I used the 3/4" drive with a handy six-foot-long bar, had my brother stand on the brake pedal, and that nut came off just as easy as could be. You know-- long enough lever and you can move the world. And yes, I broke the 1/2" breaker bar first, just to test the warranty on it. Hey, I was going to the tool staore anyway, right?

Getting the right torque on it was easy on reassembly: 200 lb dr bob stands on the lever about 20" from the nut center. No bouncing, just the whole weight on that one spot. (For those math purists, the weight of the bar made up the last few lb/ft)


Tony's method will work, assuming that the bar you use really will hold up to the 400+ lbs of torque needed to break that nut loose.



I think the tools are all at the Cypress house if you need them. Just need to coordinate a time when I'm down there.



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