cyberCG

I believe that my 86.5 needs new shocks. Definitely in the front and most likely the rear also. Is there a documented procedure available that explains how to do that or is this something that is best left to the pros?

Thanks.

Marc Schwager

Try Strut Replacement

Garth S

Very easy to do if you have the basic tools/ability. There's no rocket science in this, just a bunch of wrenching. Marc's reference is a fine start: look up Nichols & Pirtle sites for more, plus the archives here.
The ONE caution ( as mentioned in Marc's ref) - use 3 compressors on the springs: there's a tremendous amount of stored energy that mustn't be released into you or your garage.
Doing it yourself, you'll save way more than the price of shocks.

Marc Schwager

Easy in a technical sense anyway. It requires some stamina and persistence to wrestle the front shocks in and out of the upper A arms. You will find that wrenching the compressors constitutes a pretty good upper body workout too! It was one of the first things I did on my 928 and it was a good introduction to what's going on under the front of the car.

Rez

Garth and Marc,

As our 1980 shocks were non-adjustable, did you upgrade to adjustable shocks. Which kind? What brand worked best to compress the springs?

Garth S

Hey Rez,
You've actually got three seperate points tied into one, presuming I understood the question?
Firstly, yes - the oem '80 front suspension was not adjustable for height.( the rear is). A transplant of the lower spring perches plus adjuster nuts and threaded sleeves with the springs from an '85S corrected this on my car.
Secondly, none of the oem shocks are adjustable - at least re. internal valving. The Bilstein option uses a similar adjuster nut on a threaded body (deleting the sleeve) for suspension height adjustments. The end result is the same as with the Boge shocks.
Lastly, the compression of springs referred to is a reference to the 'special' tools used to further compress the coil spring (which is already under considerable compression in its installed position) so as to capture it and allow safe disassembly of the strut.

Marc, there are some jobs where I've come to love an air compressor and an impact wrench - this would be one of them!
Re. wrestling the strut out thru the upper A - arm, IIRC, the changed upper ball joint angle in the 86.5+ cars makes removal somewhat easier than in the earlier cars.

Marc Schwager

Rez,

I needed to change out the ball joints when I got my car. While I was at it I put in the struts, rotors and brakes off an 85S. The shocks were Boge. I am probably due for an upgrade at some point, but everything seems to be reasonably solid.

Re: The spring compressors, I used the cheapo ones from Harbor Freight. Garth is right, buy an air wrench!

I used the "screw the strut through the A arm" technique to get them in and out and managed to do it without punching a hole in the fender :-).

Ron_H

On my '86.5, I also used the "screw the spring through the A arm" technique. I worked for me. I had the manual, but I thought reading instructions was for when everything had gotten messed out. Besides, reading the instructions beforehand will only confuse me further. I used 2 compressors on each spring and that is what takes the most time it seems. I don't like to wrestle with the springs and it is spooky. Another thing I wish I had done was to mark the eccentrics before I disassembled everything in the front suspension. And I also wish now that I had splurged and bought some new springs because 6 months after Devek aligned my car following the installation of the shocks, Marc found that the car had settled quite a bit; enough to cause bump steer. I really don't feel like enduring that shock strut ordeal again for awhile, but will probably to replace my original springs. Do it all now and break the pain into payments.

UKKid35

Is there any difference when doing this job on an 87 S4?

Thanks

Garth S

No, its the same (ugly) job. Really, not all that bad.
Two points to add:
1) on MY 83 up, the lower balljoint has a nifty cap nut that allows the lower ball joint to be pressed out as the nut is screwed off : otherwise, you use a FBH to wack the 'begeesus' out of the spindle to release the ball joint (search 'two hammer method').
2) You do not need to remove the lower shock mount from the lower suspension arm - and mess up the eccentrics/alignment: Rather, take out the lower shock thru bolt, and remove the lower suspension arm via 4 large bolts.
This provides better working space,and saves the alignment. The one "must do" on reassembly is to NOT torque the lower suspension arm (4) bolts tight until the car is fully loaded on it's wheels. If you don't, the front end stays up ~10" peering over the horizon - or so I've (ahem) heard.

Rez

So you utilzed the lower arm removal process as opposed to the upper arm!? Reason I ask, is I understand the upper A's on the older cars are smaller. I have to replace my ball joints and am wondering if I might as well replace the shocks while I'm in there. I doubt if they have been replaced on mine, as the P.O. enjoyed driving, but didn't enjoy wrenching.

Is this the correct proceedure for the 1980?

·Jack up the car – support car by the frame, not the front suspension.
·Take tire off
·Compress the spring.
·Remove the 3 nuts on the wheel arch in the engine bay.
·Unbolt the sway bar at the base of the shock and push the bolt out
·Unbolt the lower A-arm at the frame. (4 bolts)
·Remove ball joint, since I’m replacing that anyway.
Lower the shock out. It helps to tip the upper arm up lightly and to turn the shock this unscrewing it from the upper arm.

Marc Schwager

Rez,

I only used the spring compressors once the strut was out of the car. I doubt you can get it in or out with the compressors in place. The strut will come out intact, then you use the spring compressors to disassemble the strut and replace the shocks. The WSM has some good diagrams to help you put everything back together in the right order.

·Take tire off
Unbolt the lower A-arm at the frame. (4 bolts)
Unbolt the sway bar at the base of the shock and push the bolt out
(I don't recall the exact order of disassembly, but it was pretty obvious)
You may want to unbolt the ball joints just to get some more room. I took the whole spindle and brakes out because I was swapping them out, but this is not necessary.

·Remove the 3 nuts on the wheel arch in the engine bay.
Prop up the upper A-arm so it is roughly horizontal
Unscrew the Shock through the upper A Arm
Lower the shock out.

Then finish the Ball joint replacement because you may need the room to do the hammer thing (I bought a ball joint tool, I didn't have a large enough hammer :-)

Once the strut is out compress the springs and update the shocks.

Sew it back up, adjust the height, do a rough alignment (see archives) and drive it 20-30 miles to settle the suspension. Readjust the height and re-settle the suspension. Then take it in for a real alignment.

Tony

http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/lowera.htm

thats a link on my website (link is below also). Look under "NON ROUTINE MAINTENANCE". I have pages on both installing and removing. Its for an 87 but since you have an 86.5 i believe they should be the same. As for just the shocks, take the whole assembly apart then run down to your local tire place and have them placed in a proper spring compressor and the springs removed. They will have the old springs off in no time, then give them the new ones to put on. It will cost you very little but its much easier and safer than trying to compress the springs your self.

Rez

Bing.

Light Bulb just turned on. Thanks

cyberCG

Thanks for all the help. It looks like something within my skill level to do.