TB, WP, MM, OPG; Then, no start!
#1
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Thread Starter
TB, WP, MM, OPG; Then, no start!
Hi Team,
I have an automatic 1986 928 s2 euro twin dizzy. It was running well, except for an emissions issue with high NOx that’s I’m still chasing. Anyway, last week I got the fuel injectors refurbished and installed them. The car ran fine although my emissions issue persists. I also sent in my MAF to Louie for a refurbished unit. Then, the next day we started the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Motor Mounts, and Oil Pan Gasket jobs. We followed the procedures and thought we’d hear beautiful sounds this afternoon once completed and put back together with the refurbed MAF. Alas, we could not start it up. Any suggestions? I know there are a lot of variables since we tackled so much in just a week but I thought I’d ask before we start work again tomorrow.
I’ve been bothering Roger (where I got all of the parts) enough. Any and all input would be great!
As always, much appreciated!
I have an automatic 1986 928 s2 euro twin dizzy. It was running well, except for an emissions issue with high NOx that’s I’m still chasing. Anyway, last week I got the fuel injectors refurbished and installed them. The car ran fine although my emissions issue persists. I also sent in my MAF to Louie for a refurbished unit. Then, the next day we started the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Motor Mounts, and Oil Pan Gasket jobs. We followed the procedures and thought we’d hear beautiful sounds this afternoon once completed and put back together with the refurbed MAF. Alas, we could not start it up. Any suggestions? I know there are a lot of variables since we tackled so much in just a week but I thought I’d ask before we start work again tomorrow.
I’ve been bothering Roger (where I got all of the parts) enough. Any and all input would be great!
As always, much appreciated!
#2
Rennlist Member
Beautiful car!
It sounds like a crank, no start condition?
Can you narrow it down a little? Fuel pump running? Do you have spark? What's happening with the dash, tachometer, lights? Relays and fuses OK? Battery condition?
Good luck,
Dave
It sounds like a crank, no start condition?
Can you narrow it down a little? Fuel pump running? Do you have spark? What's happening with the dash, tachometer, lights? Relays and fuses OK? Battery condition?
Good luck,
Dave
#3
Rennlist Member
High NOx means that car is running lean and most likely is a vacuum leak.
I would pull the intake and install new rubber boots, gaskets, and injector seals along with fresh hoses and vacuum lines to remove any possibility of a vacuum leak (which is more than likely causing it).
As for the no start I would look at the 12 pin connector on the right hand side of the car and look for corrosion and frayed wires. You should also clean the engine grounds and replace the main engine ground on the right hand side of the car as well.
It wouldn't hurt to inspect the connector for the crank position sensor as well. It is attached to the back of the engine and without it the computers wont send fuel or spark.
The engine ground is fairly inexpensive and should be replaced whenever you can see any real corrosion on it. It is bare copper after all.
Also check the battery ground as well. That flat cable loves to corrode from battery fumes under the plastic cover and cause all kinds of weird electrical issues.
Inspect the positive battery terminal as well. If the small wires running off of it are not connected firmly it wont allow power to go to the fuel pumps and computers causing a no start.
Hope this info helps!
I would pull the intake and install new rubber boots, gaskets, and injector seals along with fresh hoses and vacuum lines to remove any possibility of a vacuum leak (which is more than likely causing it).
As for the no start I would look at the 12 pin connector on the right hand side of the car and look for corrosion and frayed wires. You should also clean the engine grounds and replace the main engine ground on the right hand side of the car as well.
It wouldn't hurt to inspect the connector for the crank position sensor as well. It is attached to the back of the engine and without it the computers wont send fuel or spark.
The engine ground is fairly inexpensive and should be replaced whenever you can see any real corrosion on it. It is bare copper after all.
Also check the battery ground as well. That flat cable loves to corrode from battery fumes under the plastic cover and cause all kinds of weird electrical issues.
Inspect the positive battery terminal as well. If the small wires running off of it are not connected firmly it wont allow power to go to the fuel pumps and computers causing a no start.
Hope this info helps!
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
High NOx means that car is running lean and most likely is a vacuum leak.
I would pull the intake and install new rubber boots, gaskets, and injector seals along with fresh hoses and vacuum lines to remove any possibility of a vacuum leak (which is more than likely causing it).
As for the no start I would look at the 12 pin connector on the right hand side of the car and look for corrosion and frayed wires. You should also clean the engine grounds and replace the main engine ground on the right hand side of the car as well.
It wouldn't hurt to inspect the connector for the crank position sensor as well. It is attached to the back of the engine and without it the computers wont send fuel or spark.
The engine ground is fairly inexpensive and should be replaced whenever you can see any real corrosion on it. It is bare copper after all.
Also check the battery ground as well. That flat cable loves to corrode from battery fumes under the plastic cover and cause all kinds of weird electrical issues.
Inspect the positive battery terminal as well. If the small wires running off of it are not connected firmly it wont allow power to go to the fuel pumps and computers causing a no start.
Hope this info helps!
I would pull the intake and install new rubber boots, gaskets, and injector seals along with fresh hoses and vacuum lines to remove any possibility of a vacuum leak (which is more than likely causing it).
As for the no start I would look at the 12 pin connector on the right hand side of the car and look for corrosion and frayed wires. You should also clean the engine grounds and replace the main engine ground on the right hand side of the car as well.
It wouldn't hurt to inspect the connector for the crank position sensor as well. It is attached to the back of the engine and without it the computers wont send fuel or spark.
The engine ground is fairly inexpensive and should be replaced whenever you can see any real corrosion on it. It is bare copper after all.
Also check the battery ground as well. That flat cable loves to corrode from battery fumes under the plastic cover and cause all kinds of weird electrical issues.
Inspect the positive battery terminal as well. If the small wires running off of it are not connected firmly it wont allow power to go to the fuel pumps and computers causing a no start.
Hope this info helps!
#5
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Thread Starter
Last edited by wigwampro; 05-12-2020 at 02:47 AM.
#6
Rennlist Member
Working on the principle of "what you last dicked around with" - suggest you check the HT cable assignments and make sure the leads from the coils to the distributor are fully home.
The MAF should work to get you running irrespective of whether there is a connector problem so I would rule that out at the moment.
I know squat about the twin dizzy - is there any way you could have got it out of synch such that the firing pulses are 360 degrees out?
The MAF should work to get you running irrespective of whether there is a connector problem so I would rule that out at the moment.
I know squat about the twin dizzy - is there any way you could have got it out of synch such that the firing pulses are 360 degrees out?
#7
Rennlist Member
Starting from the usual suspects:
Did you confirm that the cams are properly aligned with the crank at TDC?
Are you getting fuel, once you crack open a fuel line at the regulator (have a cup handy and crank it)?
What about spark when you crank?
Did you confirm that the cams are properly aligned with the crank at TDC?
Are you getting fuel, once you crack open a fuel line at the regulator (have a cup handy and crank it)?
What about spark when you crank?
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#8
One of the last things that you did was the install of a rebuilt MAF. Though highly unlikely, just for giggles try unplugging the MAF and see if she fires.
#9
Rennlist Member
One other fairly obvious but possible missed issue could be the battery - it could be very weak after sitting for a long time during the work.
Edit - never mind, it looks like it wasn't out of commission for that long. Check it anyways though.
Edit - never mind, it looks like it wasn't out of commission for that long. Check it anyways though.
#10
Advanced
Thread Starter
Working on the principle of "what you last dicked around with" - suggest you check the HT cable assignments and make sure the leads from the coils to the distributor are fully home.
The MAF should work to get you running irrespective of whether there is a connector problem so I would rule that out at the moment.
I know squat about the twin dizzy - is there any way you could have got it out of synch such that the firing pulses are 360 degrees out?
The MAF should work to get you running irrespective of whether there is a connector problem so I would rule that out at the moment.
I know squat about the twin dizzy - is there any way you could have got it out of synch such that the firing pulses are 360 degrees out?
#11
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Thread Starter
#12
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#13
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Thread Starter
It has been charging overnight so we’ll hope for a miracle that it was a dead battery but it didn’t sound like that since it would crank.
#14
Roger is going to forward the pictures to me, but from what he's telling me, you have the crank damper on backwards and that's why it is out of time. I'll know more when the pics show up, if they show what I'm wanting to see. If you had the crank locked with the flywheel lock, it is impossible for the crank to have moved the following day to be 60 degrees out. Something was not assembled properly.
#15
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Thread Starter
Roger is going to forward the pictures to me, but from what he's telling me, you have the crank damper on backwards and that's why it is out of time. I'll know more when the pics show up, if they show what I'm wanting to see. If you had the crank locked with the flywheel lock, it is impossible for the crank to have moved the following day to be 60 degrees out. Something was not assembled properly.