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I have an automatic 1986 928 s2 euro twin dizzy. It was running well, except for an emissions issue with high NOx that’s I’m still chasing. Anyway, last week I got the fuel injectors refurbished and installed them. The car ran fine although my emissions issue persists. I also sent in my MAF to Louie for a refurbished unit. Then, the next day we started the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Motor Mounts, and Oil Pan Gasket jobs. We followed the procedures and thought we’d hear beautiful sounds this afternoon once completed and put back together with the refurbed MAF. Alas, we could not start it up. Any suggestions? I know there are a lot of variables since we tackled so much in just a week but I thought I’d ask before we start work again tomorrow.
I’ve been bothering Roger (where I got all of the parts) enough. Any and all input would be great!
Beautiful car!
It sounds like a crank, no start condition?
Can you narrow it down a little? Fuel pump running? Do you have spark? What's happening with the dash, tachometer, lights? Relays and fuses OK? Battery condition?
Good luck,
Dave
High NOx means that car is running lean and most likely is a vacuum leak.
I would pull the intake and install new rubber boots, gaskets, and injector seals along with fresh hoses and vacuum lines to remove any possibility of a vacuum leak (which is more than likely causing it).
As for the no start I would look at the 12 pin connector on the right hand side of the car and look for corrosion and frayed wires. You should also clean the engine grounds and replace the main engine ground on the right hand side of the car as well.
It wouldn't hurt to inspect the connector for the crank position sensor as well. It is attached to the back of the engine and without it the computers wont send fuel or spark.
The engine ground is fairly inexpensive and should be replaced whenever you can see any real corrosion on it. It is bare copper after all.
Also check the battery ground as well. That flat cable loves to corrode from battery fumes under the plastic cover and cause all kinds of weird electrical issues.
Inspect the positive battery terminal as well. If the small wires running off of it are not connected firmly it wont allow power to go to the fuel pumps and computers causing a no start.
High NOx means that car is running lean and most likely is a vacuum leak.
I would pull the intake and install new rubber boots, gaskets, and injector seals along with fresh hoses and vacuum lines to remove any possibility of a vacuum leak (which is more than likely causing it).
As for the no start I would look at the 12 pin connector on the right hand side of the car and look for corrosion and frayed wires. You should also clean the engine grounds and replace the main engine ground on the right hand side of the car as well.
It wouldn't hurt to inspect the connector for the crank position sensor as well. It is attached to the back of the engine and without it the computers wont send fuel or spark.
The engine ground is fairly inexpensive and should be replaced whenever you can see any real corrosion on it. It is bare copper after all.
Also check the battery ground as well. That flat cable loves to corrode from battery fumes under the plastic cover and cause all kinds of weird electrical issues.
Inspect the positive battery terminal as well. If the small wires running off of it are not connected firmly it wont allow power to go to the fuel pumps and computers causing a no start.
Hope this info helps!
I will check vacuum leak again after we get it running. I replaced any worn vacuum lines as well as injector hoses. I’ve had 14-pin connector issues in the past but I’ve since record field the problem. I also cleaned all engine grounds about a month ago, including main engine ground and battery ground. The crank position sensor was replaced about a month ago, as well. Nothing has changed with any of that in the past week. I’m wondering what could have caused this from the jobs done in the past week. So strange!
Beautiful car!
It sounds like a crank, no start condition?
Can you narrow it down a little? Fuel pump running? Do you have spark? What's happening with the dash, tachometer, lights? Relays and fuses OK? Battery condition?
Good luck,
Dave
Correct. Crank, no start. Fuel Pump seams fine. It was replaced in February along with all ignition wires, plugs, rotors, distributors, etc. We could smell fuel upon trying to start the car. We’ll check a plug for spark tomorrow and I’ll report back with dash feedback. Relays and fuses were fine before we started these jobs last week. Battery was fine but not full. It’s been on a trickle charger since this afternoon.
Working on the principle of "what you last dicked around with" - suggest you check the HT cable assignments and make sure the leads from the coils to the distributor are fully home.
The MAF should work to get you running irrespective of whether there is a connector problem so I would rule that out at the moment.
I know squat about the twin dizzy - is there any way you could have got it out of synch such that the firing pulses are 360 degrees out?
One of the last things that you did was the install of a rebuilt MAF. Though highly unlikely, just for giggles try unplugging the MAF and see if she fires.
Working on the principle of "what you last dicked around with" - suggest you check the HT cable assignments and make sure the leads from the coils to the distributor are fully home.
The MAF should work to get you running irrespective of whether there is a connector problem so I would rule that out at the moment.
I know squat about the twin dizzy - is there any way you could have got it out of synch such that the firing pulses are 360 degrees out?
Starting from the usual suspects:
Did you confirm that the cams are properly aligned with the crank at TDC?
Are you getting fuel, once you crack open a fuel line at the regulator (have a cup handy and crank it)?
What about spark when you crank?
Yes, I can confirm that timing marks are aligned. We’ll check for spark today and start at square one with a no-start situation. We can smell fuel at crank and the tank is full.
One of the last things that you did was the install of a rebuilt MAF. Though highly unlikely, just for giggles try unplugging the MAF and see if she fires.
Roger is going to forward the pictures to me, but from what he's telling me, you have the crank damper on backwards and that's why it is out of time. I'll know more when the pics show up, if they show what I'm wanting to see. If you had the crank locked with the flywheel lock, it is impossible for the crank to have moved the following day to be 60 degrees out. Something was not assembled properly.
Roger is going to forward the pictures to me, but from what he's telling me, you have the crank damper on backwards and that's why it is out of time. I'll know more when the pics show up, if they show what I'm wanting to see. If you had the crank locked with the flywheel lock, it is impossible for the crank to have moved the following day to be 60 degrees out. Something was not assembled properly.
Thank you! I’m happy to provide any pictures that may help.
05-11-2020, 11:08 PM
TB, WP, MM, OPG; Then, no start!
