Hood release problem
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Joined: May 2014
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From: South Florida
Hood release problem
The last time I tried to open my hood the proper way, I felt some resistance when pulling the lever. I stupidly just pulled harder and of course something snapped. Then I compounded the issue when I broke the rearmost tab on the top part of the cable pull cover. Anyway, both pieces are broken now, I'm not sure why I was so sure I just needed a cable.
The question, however...do I ALSO need a cable? I ask because initially, the cable was hard to pull. It's always been fairly easy. And now, just trying to fit the broken pieces together to make sure I know what I need to do, with the lever mounted on the pivot peg, I cannot pull the outer part of that cable back far enough to get it to sit outside that lever cover. Not sure that's a very clear explanation, but if I understand it, the outer sheath of the cable has to remain outside of the lever cover assembly, with just the inner part going to the handle. Right? Then pulling the handle pulls the inner cable through the outer sheath. Suddenly that seems not to be moving, but I'm not sure what could cause that. I don't think it's on the hood latch end, that mechanism still seems to work.
The question, however...do I ALSO need a cable? I ask because initially, the cable was hard to pull. It's always been fairly easy. And now, just trying to fit the broken pieces together to make sure I know what I need to do, with the lever mounted on the pivot peg, I cannot pull the outer part of that cable back far enough to get it to sit outside that lever cover. Not sure that's a very clear explanation, but if I understand it, the outer sheath of the cable has to remain outside of the lever cover assembly, with just the inner part going to the handle. Right? Then pulling the handle pulls the inner cable through the outer sheath. Suddenly that seems not to be moving, but I'm not sure what could cause that. I don't think it's on the hood latch end, that mechanism still seems to work.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,379
Likes: 128
From: Stratford-upon-Avon
You need to examine the whole run of the cable to identify where problem is. First you need to try releasing the hood. Easy to do by lying underneath, looking up, and using long screwdriver or pry bar to push the arm to which the cable end attaches (if still attached!) towards left of car.
With hood open you can remove the latch by drilling out the 4.7mm rivets. Youd need to do this anyway if cable requires replacement. With the latch in your hand you can disconnect cable and will be obvious if problem with cable or latch (suspect latter if you felt resistance). There is also a hold down clamp holding cable outer just before it enters latch (same kind of outer/inner movement you described for cabin end).
With hood open you can remove the latch by drilling out the 4.7mm rivets. Youd need to do this anyway if cable requires replacement. With the latch in your hand you can disconnect cable and will be obvious if problem with cable or latch (suspect latter if you felt resistance). There is also a hold down clamp holding cable outer just before it enters latch (same kind of outer/inner movement you described for cabin end).
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,559
Likes: 65
From: South Florida
You need to examine the whole run of the cable to identify where problem is. First you need to try releasing the hood. Easy to do by lying underneath, looking up, and using long screwdriver or pry bar to push the arm to which the cable end attaches (if still attached!) towards left of car.
With hood open you can remove the latch by drilling out the 4.7mm rivets. Youd need to do this anyway if cable requires replacement. With the latch in your hand you can disconnect cable and will be obvious if problem with cable or latch (suspect latter if you felt resistance). There is also a hold down clamp holding cable outer just before it enters latch (same kind of outer/inner movement you described for cabin end).
With hood open you can remove the latch by drilling out the 4.7mm rivets. Youd need to do this anyway if cable requires replacement. With the latch in your hand you can disconnect cable and will be obvious if problem with cable or latch (suspect latter if you felt resistance). There is also a hold down clamp holding cable outer just before it enters latch (same kind of outer/inner movement you described for cabin end).
There's no way to disconnect the cable without drilling out those rivets? I'm wary of messing something up there.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 648
Likes: 24
From: THE GRANITE STATE
I'm having the same issue here, I had reinforced the plastic back plate with thin aluminum plate which worked well but now the lever and pivot piece broke so ordering new parts. I already replaced my cable and I did not drill out any rivets. I also used the original cable as a snake and attached the new one to it and pulled it through.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2014
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From: South Florida
So you reached up from underneath to remove the old cable and attach the new one? Mine is a little grungy so I was having trouble seeing how it attached, but I think I'd prefer that if possible rather than drilling out the rivets. Of course, if the latch is my problem, then it's obviously got to come out...
I'm having the same issue here, I had reinforced the plastic back plate with thin aluminum plate which worked well but now the lever and pivot piece broke so ordering new parts. I already replaced my cable and I did not drill out any rivets. I also used the original cable as a snake and attached the new one to it and pulled it through.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,379
Likes: 128
From: Stratford-upon-Avon
Drilling out the rivets is really fast and easy (originals are aluminium I think - at any rate drill goes through in seconds).
you can then have proper look at latch, clean, lubricate and if OCD like me install new latch. Just need a few of same size rivets (buy the Porsche part if you want) and a hand riveter.
Worth installing new cable anyway for nice smooth operation. It attaches to handle through eyelet in a pin you just drift out with narrow punch.
you can then have proper look at latch, clean, lubricate and if OCD like me install new latch. Just need a few of same size rivets (buy the Porsche part if you want) and a hand riveter.
Worth installing new cable anyway for nice smooth operation. It attaches to handle through eyelet in a pin you just drift out with narrow punch.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2014
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From: South Florida
Actually that does sound like it's probably the better route.
Drilling out the rivets is really fast and easy (originals are aluminium I think - at any rate drill goes through in seconds).
you can then have proper look at latch, clean, lubricate and if OCD like me install new latch. Just need a few of same size rivets (buy the Porsche part if you want) and a hand riveter.
Worth installing new cable anyway for nice smooth operation. It attaches to handle through eyelet in a pin you just drift out with narrow punch.
you can then have proper look at latch, clean, lubricate and if OCD like me install new latch. Just need a few of same size rivets (buy the Porsche part if you want) and a hand riveter.
Worth installing new cable anyway for nice smooth operation. It attaches to handle through eyelet in a pin you just drift out with narrow punch.
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Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Millersville, MD
The base plate for the kick panel latch should never, ever have been made out of plastic. If I ever get really crazy and do some home foundry stuff, I think my first project would be to cast one from aluminium. I broke one of the plastic base plates on a cold day AFTER I had replaced my cable and removed and cleaned the latch.
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 255
Likes: 216
From: Carthage, TN
I've had the same issue. bureau13....we may be mystically connected...LOL...86.5 and the same problems. I've broken 2 release handles. A couple of things that have helped.
- Even if it's perfectly set up...the plastic handles suck and are fragile. DO NOT PUT ANY SIDEWAYS TORQUE ON THE HANDLE...or SNAP! Straight back slow and steady.
- Make sure you have the base plate and the cable inserted into the tab at the top correctly. (find the thread on this) If any of this is not perfect...SNAP! (1st one broke because of this for me)
- Clean the latch at the hood pin. SQUEAKY CLEAN and re-lubricate it with something that's not too messy. I used SUPERLUBE (Spray) and it loosened it up quite a bit. All "greased" parts are this way...you should get the old gunk out before you re-lubricate it. if you can see grease/lube and it's not a packed bearing...it's probably mostly dirt in the grease. My release had a "gritty" feel. Use a long thick screwdriver through the hole to lever the latch back and forth while cleaning and lubricating and you'll feel it loosen up as you go. I did mine without removing it.
- Check hood alignment. If the pin is binding the release it's probably the #2 issue that is making it hard.
- Lubricate the cable. I just bought this tool and I've not tried it yet...but I will report back once I have. It's designed to allow you to easily get the spray into the sheathing with less mess.https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B009YEYL..._ZIbVEbPSBFSAC
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2014
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From: South Florida
Dundertaker please don't tell me you're a Libra, I'm much happier not believing in that stuff!
In my case, whatever caused the problem was not interior latch plate thing. That broke because I stupidly felt resistance and pulled harder. The truth is, I just got the car home after the stupid clutch pedal fiasco, and I was pissed and wanted to open it up to see if I still had fluid in the reservoir. Now, it never felt overly difficult to pull before, so I'm really not sure what happened, but I have a new cable, and I think I will go ahead and pop the rivets out so I can inspect the latch closely. I will clean and lubricate it as you suggest.
In my case, whatever caused the problem was not interior latch plate thing. That broke because I stupidly felt resistance and pulled harder. The truth is, I just got the car home after the stupid clutch pedal fiasco, and I was pissed and wanted to open it up to see if I still had fluid in the reservoir. Now, it never felt overly difficult to pull before, so I'm really not sure what happened, but I have a new cable, and I think I will go ahead and pop the rivets out so I can inspect the latch closely. I will clean and lubricate it as you suggest.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2014
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From: South Florida
After additional fiddling with the lower hood latch while still on the car, it seemed to be working well enough. It's stiff enough that I need to put downward pressure on the hood to unlatch with a long screwdriver, but that feels like spring pressure. I pulled out the old cable, it's definitely seen better days cosmetically, but out of the car it seems to work OK.
I routed the new cable, which is definitely smoother than the old one, hooked everything up, and...pulled it, felt something give. Please don't tell me I broke another interior latch panel...no. Whew. But it seems that the outer sheath of the cable is actually pushing into the little path that only the inner wire is supposed to pass through. In other words, there is way too much resistance to moving the wire itself. So, basically, whatever was wrong before, is still wrong. Maybe it is that latch after all.
First thing I need to do is disconnect the wire from the hood latch and see if it's still hard to move. If not, then I think I have my answer.
I routed the new cable, which is definitely smoother than the old one, hooked everything up, and...pulled it, felt something give. Please don't tell me I broke another interior latch panel...no. Whew. But it seems that the outer sheath of the cable is actually pushing into the little path that only the inner wire is supposed to pass through. In other words, there is way too much resistance to moving the wire itself. So, basically, whatever was wrong before, is still wrong. Maybe it is that latch after all.
First thing I need to do is disconnect the wire from the hood latch and see if it's still hard to move. If not, then I think I have my answer.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2014
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From: South Florida
Update: Definitely the latch. I drilled out the rivets and inspected it...pretty gunked up. I spent some time cleaning it, re-lubricated it a bit, and the mechanism seems to work better now. Also, the cable pulls smoothly now that it's not attached to anything, so nothing seems wrong with the cable or routing. I'll put it back in in a bit and hopefully I didn't weaken the plastic interior bits when messing with them earlier.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2014
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From: South Florida
Update: It wasn't the latch 
Well...I actually don't know. I cleaned and lubed the latch, and it started working a lot better. Is it as easy as the day it left the factory? Doubtful? Is it drastically tighter than it was a month ago? Surely not. Yet it's still pulling the outer sheath past the stop on that plastic inner latch plate.I need to take that out and take a closer look, it's possible I actually did break that thing again.
Well...I actually don't know. I cleaned and lubed the latch, and it started working a lot better. Is it as easy as the day it left the factory? Doubtful? Is it drastically tighter than it was a month ago? Surely not. Yet it's still pulling the outer sheath past the stop on that plastic inner latch plate.I need to take that out and take a closer look, it's possible I actually did break that thing again.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 255
Likes: 216
From: Carthage, TN
If its not perfectly aligned inside the car and attached to the base plate youll keep breaking them...(dont ask how I know) Look at the mounting points, flushness, how the cable fits the plate...
Racer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 255
Likes: 216
From: Carthage, TN