Can you use the rear spring adjustment sleeves on front shocks?
#1
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I haven't seen anything in threads on this, but the adjustment sleeves on the rear shocks have more height adjustment then the front.
For new shocks like Konis, can one simply use rear height adjustment sleeves on the front shocks too?
For new shocks like Konis, can one simply use rear height adjustment sleeves on the front shocks too?
#3
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If you need more adjustment than the front sleeves will give, your springs are shot.
The rears are longer because of ratio of adjustment vs ride height.
Fronts, about 2/1, rears more like 1/1.
It’s geometry.
The rears are longer because of ratio of adjustment vs ride height.
Fronts, about 2/1, rears more like 1/1.
It’s geometry.
#4
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Thanks. I haven't bought my shocks yet but wanted to see if I can just buy an extra set of rear sleeves. Don't know if my springs are shot honestly at 160k miles. Wouldn't be surprised if they are though.
#5
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In all the years of installing 928 Boge front shocks,
I have never needed to raise a car higher than the capability of the front shock adjusting collars provide.
That said I have encountered issues where on the front shocks,
the inner ring spins on the shock and thus required removal .
The only fix for this is to be JB welding the inner collar to the shock to hold it
NOTE using the rear collars on the front will also prevent the car from being lowered,
as the collars have an unthreaded area at the bottom of their collar,
thus the adjusting collar could need to be moved past this area to lower the car enough to restore factory ride height.
My suggestion is to get a set of Bilstiens and put them on, they have way better threaded collars and perches
I have never needed to raise a car higher than the capability of the front shock adjusting collars provide.
That said I have encountered issues where on the front shocks,
the inner ring spins on the shock and thus required removal .
The only fix for this is to be JB welding the inner collar to the shock to hold it
NOTE using the rear collars on the front will also prevent the car from being lowered,
as the collars have an unthreaded area at the bottom of their collar,
thus the adjusting collar could need to be moved past this area to lower the car enough to restore factory ride height.
My suggestion is to get a set of Bilstiens and put them on, they have way better threaded collars and perches
#6
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The question would be, what is your existing ride height?
My 83 was at 130mm, or about 2” low prior to adjustment.
Didn’t need new springs.
Ride is much better at stock height. Also, no more bump steer.
My 83 was at 130mm, or about 2” low prior to adjustment.
Didn’t need new springs.
Ride is much better at stock height. Also, no more bump steer.
#7
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My car supposedly rides at stock height right now, but for some reason seems a little higher up front than others I have seen on here.
Merlin, I forgot Bilsteins have the integrated threads. Will save myself the headache of threaded collars and go that route.
Merlin, I forgot Bilsteins have the integrated threads. Will save myself the headache of threaded collars and go that route.
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#8
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Check this out if your interested on how I got my adjusters free. Of course my front shocks were less than 4 years old with less than 10k miles on them.. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ing-stuck.html
#9
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Andy -- Take a few minutes to actually measure the ride height, so you can make an informed decision on where you want it to end up. Comparing to pictures here is not quite as exact as you might like in the end.
My car sits at the bottom end of the height range at about 170mm in front, and at the high end of the rear height range in the rear. Yet is still looks way nose-high compared with cars I see here and in person. We've beaten the "best ride height" discussion to death already, and I've staked out the 170-190mm front height range for best ride quality, steering and tire wear. There's more than a bit of daylight above the tire at that height (see avatar pic...), and it looks way high when sitting next to the very-typical sagged-springs heights.
Cut some coat-hanger wire into sticks with 5mm or so difference in length, starting at 130mm or so and on to 190mm. In seconds you'll be able to find out how high your car really sits. Once you "settle" on the correct height, and have the car aligned at that height, you'll want to regularly check and adjust the car's height as needed to maintain that height. Keeps the toe the same and solves a lot of alignment-relate tire wear issues.
edit: The highest I can safely get the car with the Eibach springs is 167mm, or the inner ring starts to protrude out the bottom of the adjusting collar. That's why there's a 167mm stick in the collection.
Double-top-secret high-tech ride-height gauge kit:
My car sits at the bottom end of the height range at about 170mm in front, and at the high end of the rear height range in the rear. Yet is still looks way nose-high compared with cars I see here and in person. We've beaten the "best ride height" discussion to death already, and I've staked out the 170-190mm front height range for best ride quality, steering and tire wear. There's more than a bit of daylight above the tire at that height (see avatar pic...), and it looks way high when sitting next to the very-typical sagged-springs heights.
Cut some coat-hanger wire into sticks with 5mm or so difference in length, starting at 130mm or so and on to 190mm. In seconds you'll be able to find out how high your car really sits. Once you "settle" on the correct height, and have the car aligned at that height, you'll want to regularly check and adjust the car's height as needed to maintain that height. Keeps the toe the same and solves a lot of alignment-relate tire wear issues.
edit: The highest I can safely get the car with the Eibach springs is 167mm, or the inner ring starts to protrude out the bottom of the adjusting collar. That's why there's a 167mm stick in the collection.
Double-top-secret high-tech ride-height gauge kit:
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#10
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Measure it.
The correct ride height looks a fair amount higher than many of the cars you see pictured.
Because the number of cars riding well below the correct ride height is ridiculous.
"Because it looks cool" is no excuse for bad handling, bump steer and risking damage to the motor from bottoming out.
But some folks don't listen.
#11
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For the front Im just shy of 185 (basically had to jam the plastic coat hanger I cut between the ground and the where the center section of the rear control arm mount. Think that is how the WSM says to measure.
Rear I am a tiny bit a above 175...maybe it's closer to 178. I cut the hangers in 5mm sections from 175 to 190. Followed the WSM.
Rear I am a tiny bit a above 175...maybe it's closer to 178. I cut the hangers in 5mm sections from 175 to 190. Followed the WSM.