Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Power Steering Bolts and Hoses

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-07-2020, 03:59 PM
  #1  
Zirconocene
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Zirconocene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: PDX Adjacent
Posts: 2,842
Received 692 Likes on 498 Posts
Default Power Steering Bolts and Hoses

Hi there all-

I'm now into the part of my project where I try to fix the power steering leak that seems to have been going on for many, many years.

I've removed the tensioning bracket for the PS pump. However, this write up (https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...g-removal.html) indicates that there are 3 bolts that should be involved. My car only had 2 unequal length 13 mm head hex bolts. PET is not clear about any of this:



The only bolt that is called out for the front of the bracket is #3, which is the shorter of the 2 smaller bolts. So, what are the dimensions of the larger bolt? The write up, above, calls out a 17 mm head bolt but I don't know what that means from a diameter, thread pitch, and length perspective (Edited to add: I just went out and tested things out, it's an M10-1.5, but I still don't know the required length). I know somebody here can hook me up with the information, pretty please? Also, given that the bracket is getting put back on the block, what are the required torque settings on reassembly?

Next, when I look up a hoses that need to be replaced, as they look to be potential leak sources, it looks to be coming from one of the hoses coming off the reservoir. I've bought a new reservoir and will install that but I've run into a bit of a quandary on the hose part of things.


#12 and part of #29 (not shown but it's the cooling loop) are of interest here

#12 is something I'm just going to have to buy (I think, please correct me if I'm wrong). Looking at the part on the car and PET there look to be some formed bends in the hose. I don't know how well hose from an auto parts store will be able to replicate that.

More importantly, the hose on #29 (the one just to the right of #12 in the picture above) that goes from the reservoir to the cooling line does not look to be easily replaceable. Does it also have a pre-formed bend to it? I don't believe that the metal cooling loop is compromised in any way but I'm having some trouble visualizing replacing just that piece of hose. Am I overthinking things? Can I just cut off the crimped ferrule, replace the old part with a new, suitable ID hose, and use a worm clamp instead of a crimped ferrule? I really don't want to remove the whole cooling loop to take to a hydraulic hose rebuilder, either.

As always, help and support is greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Last edited by Zirconocene; 03-07-2020 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Checked a bolt size but still need some important deets
Old 03-07-2020, 04:17 PM
  #2  
StratfordShark
Drifting
 
StratfordShark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Stratford-upon-Avon
Posts: 3,253
Received 84 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

Yes you’re correct you just cut the crimp and attach new hose with clamp. The pressure is low as it’s return line.

The easiest way to replicate the moulded section from crimp to reservoir is to buy a duplicate supply hose (part 12) and cut off one leg. Not only do you have just the right shape, but you have a section with exactly the correct different internal diameters to fit the reservoir nipple at one end and the clamped section at the other.
Old 03-07-2020, 04:21 PM
  #3  
FredR
Rennlist Member
 
FredR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Oman
Posts: 9,796
Received 701 Likes on 567 Posts
Default

The low pressure hose components can be removed with the hard piping in situ. I used my Dremel to cut off the crimps and used jubilee clips on the rebuild. Roger does pre-formed hose sections for both the suction and return. I had no options when I did mine but I did have one section that was very flexible [no pressure worth talking about in either hose].

You need to get things out of the way to get access as I recall. The pump console will be coming out any way and I seem to remember I had the radiator and fans out as well for other reasons [timing belt]. Common sense should tell you what neds to be moved out of the way.
Old 03-07-2020, 04:58 PM
  #4  
Zirconocene
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Zirconocene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: PDX Adjacent
Posts: 2,842
Received 692 Likes on 498 Posts
Default

Thanks for setting my mind at ease about this.

StratfordShark: That's a great idea!

Fred: I have a number of things out (alternator and power steering pump and bracket) but I agree that there may be even more that needs to come out. It's pretty tight in there right now and I'm sort of dreading further disassembly. However, if I can fix this "for good" it will all be worth it.

Cheers
Old 03-08-2020, 10:03 AM
  #5  
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Petza914's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Clemson, SC
Posts: 25,747
Received 6,411 Likes on 4,086 Posts
Default

If the high pressure hose is old, replace it with a new one and I fire sleeved mine for additional durability and protection. Not only does tge fire sleeve shield the hose from heat exposure, but if there is a rupture, will divert all the fluid out the bottom of the car instead of spraying onto the hot exhaust manifold or engine.
Old 03-08-2020, 10:33 AM
  #6  
Zirconocene
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Zirconocene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: PDX Adjacent
Posts: 2,842
Received 692 Likes on 498 Posts
Default

Petza914: That's on the list, for sure, when I get to the high pressure line. It's solid advice, thanks.



Quick Reply: Power Steering Bolts and Hoses



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 11:45 PM.