Speaking about Restoration/Restorods....
#16
Rennlist Member
Very impressive photograph and that before the engine and gearbox are taken into consideration- scary $$$'s! My intuition tells me that pile of parts is going to be north of $20k
#17
Rennlist Member
Good thing you are in California Greg.
If I were living anywhere near your shop, you would constantly have to be wiping drool off of those parts...
Thanks for the inspiration... AGAIN!
If I were living anywhere near your shop, you would constantly have to be wiping drool off of those parts...
Thanks for the inspiration... AGAIN!
#18
Race Director
Amazing work as always Doc.........stunning really. I thought I had my sharky in excellent condition, but no where near this level of detail...yes I did paint the rotors and cleaned the suspension really well....but nothing like that
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Daniel5691 (02-20-2020)
#20
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Greg and the group --
Rich Andrade shared some pix a few many years ago, where he had the aluminum rear cross-member steam-cleaned to de-grease and de-cosmoline it prior to inspection and refitting.
It sure looked like the steam step was a great way to get started.
FWIW, I see dry-ice blasting used more frequently these days for cleaning dirt and salts off steam generator tubes downstream of gas turbine exhausts. It does a pretty good job, cleaning the deposits out of finely-finned steel pipe with minimal damage to the fins. Use it too aggressively and it starts chewing on the fins before anything more than a little surface corrosion comes off. For pressure-cast and forged aluminum parts, like the control arms and suspension links, surface corrosion is the killer. You get micro pitting from road salts, perhaps the biggest enemy of aluminum parts under the cars. It pretty much trashes the surface finish even though the parts will often still be structurally sound. There's a case for some careful sanding and brushing on those parts, followed by a quick acid wash to brighten the finish and remove the protective oxide coating that forms. Then immediately a thin clear powdercoat or silver anodize to preserve the surfaces.
Plating: I see a lot of different platings and coatings on non-automotive pieces, plus some zinc and different grades of cad plating. What went on the production pieces of our cars would probably disappoint someone looking for a real appearance pop when you lift the hood. It was a relatively inexpensive cad irridite, with virtually no prep beyond cleaning the die or machining lubricant off after a part was stamped or turned. As Greg says, it was a lot closer to yellow zinc as far as appearance. Zinc corrodes to gray though, while the cad stays sort of yellow for the first half of its life before fading slowly to steel.
Rich Andrade shared some pix a few many years ago, where he had the aluminum rear cross-member steam-cleaned to de-grease and de-cosmoline it prior to inspection and refitting.
It sure looked like the steam step was a great way to get started.
FWIW, I see dry-ice blasting used more frequently these days for cleaning dirt and salts off steam generator tubes downstream of gas turbine exhausts. It does a pretty good job, cleaning the deposits out of finely-finned steel pipe with minimal damage to the fins. Use it too aggressively and it starts chewing on the fins before anything more than a little surface corrosion comes off. For pressure-cast and forged aluminum parts, like the control arms and suspension links, surface corrosion is the killer. You get micro pitting from road salts, perhaps the biggest enemy of aluminum parts under the cars. It pretty much trashes the surface finish even though the parts will often still be structurally sound. There's a case for some careful sanding and brushing on those parts, followed by a quick acid wash to brighten the finish and remove the protective oxide coating that forms. Then immediately a thin clear powdercoat or silver anodize to preserve the surfaces.
Plating: I see a lot of different platings and coatings on non-automotive pieces, plus some zinc and different grades of cad plating. What went on the production pieces of our cars would probably disappoint someone looking for a real appearance pop when you lift the hood. It was a relatively inexpensive cad irridite, with virtually no prep beyond cleaning the die or machining lubricant off after a part was stamped or turned. As Greg says, it was a lot closer to yellow zinc as far as appearance. Zinc corrodes to gray though, while the cad stays sort of yellow for the first half of its life before fading slowly to steel.
#21
Rennlist Member
I had the bottom of my GT ice cleaned in Scottsdale and it came out great. Overseas they mostly steam clean and that too works. It's all about putting the time into it.
#22
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
It's actually just the reverse situation....
I buy them, regularly, at Walmart by the dozen.
I have no idea of where they all go.
I suspect that Mary is slowly stealing back all the ones I took from her, in the early years, and there's a cabinet in the kitchen that has 40 of the darn things.
I buy them, regularly, at Walmart by the dozen.
I have no idea of where they all go.
I suspect that Mary is slowly stealing back all the ones I took from her, in the early years, and there's a cabinet in the kitchen that has 40 of the darn things.
#23
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I suspect that someone, someday, will be completely mystified at all those little "dings" in the aluminum exhaust heat shield. It would be fun to be there, while they ponder that!
#24
Rennlist Member
Greg,
Yes i did notice that. Luckily those parts are not expensive. Having said that, the lower half of the car was a quite nasty and needed a good cleaning... I still prefer steaming as it is the least abrasive, but short of those aluminum dings, it came out quite clean.
Yes i did notice that. Luckily those parts are not expensive. Having said that, the lower half of the car was a quite nasty and needed a good cleaning... I still prefer steaming as it is the least abrasive, but short of those aluminum dings, it came out quite clean.
#26
Race Car
Greg,
Yes i did notice that. Luckily those parts are not expensive. Having said that, the lower half of the car was a quite nasty and needed a good cleaning... I still prefer steaming as it is the least abrasive, but short of those aluminum dings, it came out quite clean.
Yes i did notice that. Luckily those parts are not expensive. Having said that, the lower half of the car was a quite nasty and needed a good cleaning... I still prefer steaming as it is the least abrasive, but short of those aluminum dings, it came out quite clean.
#27
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I think the later mounts, with a larger contact surface, are more stable than the early mounts.
#28
Rennlist Member
Regardless, this is one flimsy alufoil. Checked it online and its $130 for both sides combined... so no harm really done.
#29
Here's what an aluminum part looks like after being plastic media blasted. I just blasted 2 rear cross members, took about 15 minutes each, they are 'available' one has the little round plates the other appears to be a later model.