bureau13

So while i take a break from the clutch job until parts arrive, i decided to replace the rear axel boots, three of which are torn.

I'm following Dwayne's write-up, which is excellent, but he doesn't mention how he removed the end covers on the transmission side (see photo). I'm sure they're just stuck on from grease and age, but i haven't got them to budge and i wanted to check the internet wisdom before prying too hard and breaking something. The kit from 928 International came with new ones, so i guess it doesn't matter what happens to the old ones.

Kevin in Atlanta

Chisel and hammer.

bureau13

Ok sounds good. I'll do that.

zekgb

Hit it here.

skpyle

bereau13, go here to my thread and start at post #167, go to post #171. It covers my experience changing the boots and repacking the CV joints on the Red Witch:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-wyait-12.html


Good Luck!

bureau13

Ooh, nice. Thanks for the link!

Red Flash

I would use the old caps, if possible. The old plating is much better than the new plating.

The new caps will deteriorate faster than the old ones and actually look much worse in a short amount of time.

Just my 2 cents.

bureau13

Interesting, I did not know that. I don't think I damaged them during removal, and they looked fine, just greasy, like everything else :-)

bureau13

Question about spline and thread lube. Dwayne's write-up mentions using copper anti-seize on the outer splines and axle nut threads (yes I noticed I've been spelling axle like Axel Rose and am now annoyed by it, oh well) but says nothing about the inner splines. Should those be left dry? Also...Optimoly HT is mentioned and referred to as "copper anti-seize." That's also the same stuff mentioned for the clutch splined shaft, etc, only the high pressure grease I have doesn't look like that. Thinking about using that grease on the splines and then regular copper anti-seize on the axle nut threads, but if someone has a better idea let me know. Mainly, I'm just curious about those inner splines.

jpitman2

Here is why you should post your car's model year - there were 2 types of boots and the metal caps the large end of the boot seats on. The early ones had a ledge on the metal part and the boot was flat where it fitted, but on 911s, and then 928s, the boot tended to slip off. The later boots have a deep section and the metal caps a matching groove, where the big end seats, to give a more positive location for the boot, and stop them slipping off. Check your boots.

My car has the late boots and caps, but my local wrench was a bit surprised to see them on an 83.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

bureau13

Did signatures go away? I had all that in my signature but I don't see it displaying anymore. Anyway, I have an '86.5. I believe I have the later axles, although I'm not in front of the car right now. I know Dwayne's write-up had some sort of gaskets but mine does not, nor do I remember seeing any in Seth's write-up.

The Forgotten On

Your membership has ended. Time to pay up

bureau13

Doh! Right you are...

bureau13

The signature is back

This job is complete, save for tightening the axle nuts. The driver's side threaded on nicely, but the other one, while it started good, got hard to turn pretty quickly. It was also hard to screw off, relatively speaking, even after breaking it free. I'm not sure what's going on there but I've ordered new ones just in case the nut is knackered.

dr bob

Didn't see this answered...

The inner splines are completely contained between the boot and the end cap. Use CV joint grease to coat the splines prior to sliding the joint onto the shaft, then install the circlip. You've already packed the joint itself with grease, and filled the cap prior to snapping it on to the end of the assembly. Slide bolts in with the security plates, and use a couple nuts ready hold everything together while you prepare and install the boot. Pack the boot about half full of grease after you slide it into position on the shaft, so there's a bit of space left to allow for expansion and flex in service. Then secure the boot at the big end with the larger clamp. On the shaft (small) end, slide the boot towards the joint and clean the shaft where the boot will seat. Draw the end of the boot back onto the cleaned area and install the small-end clamp.

Use the correct tool to secure the clamps. It's tempting to just grab the nippers and squeeze the clamp, but that bends the clamp up in the middle of the crimp, leaving three bends where there should be only the original two. the clamp tool has a pad in the middle that prevents that third bend as you crimp.

Do all this on the bench if you can. Be sure to clean everything prior to and then following assembly. That way, any future seepage from a boot will be readily apparent. Be sure to clean the tub over the inner joints and the wheelhouse liner too. Often the first evidence of a failing boot is the black grease strip that's flung out radially from the failing boot. You might not see a crack in a boot rib right away, but the black grease stripe will get your attention if it's new.

HTH.