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Finally. A perfect clutch!

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Old 03-19-2020, 06:27 PM
  #91  
Bigfoot928
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Originally Posted by Petza914
I'm curious about this statement. Is the 6-speed you reference the C5 Z06 6-speed setup that Carl sells or something different. I didn't have any trouble removing my clutch the normal way. Is the T/O bearing in this Tilton setup different where the clutch pack doesn't come out like a 928 dual disc clutch normally does where once the coupler is moved, the whole things just drops out?

Also, why the separate reservoir and not just change the brake fluid to something with a higher boiling point? I run Motul RBF600 in all my cars and flush and bleed every spring. Loading 6-8 bottles of fluid into the Motive power bleeder lets me hit them all 7 of them one after the other in a couple of hours. I do have nice open wheel designs though where I can reach the bleeders without having to jack up cars or remove wheels, which makes it much easier.
The factory manual clutch has a flat flywheel, and then the 2 disks sandwich the intermediate plate with starter ring and are installed with the pressure plate all together. The tilton clutch is beefier and goes together the same way but the flywheel is dished and the starter ring is on the flywheel instead of the intermediate plate so it all needs more room to slide back to go together. The TO bearing is hydraulic so no pivot arm. Doing the factory dual disk clutch is enough of a PITA that I did them with the engine out. Adding that the spec PP was a tad bit thicker and didnt have a place to put the shims in it made it a complete bear to do. Almost impossible to do by yourself.
Old 03-19-2020, 06:45 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by 928sg
The factory manual clutch has a flat flywheel, and then the 2 disks sandwich the intermediate plate with starter ring and are installed with the pressure plate all together. The tilton clutch is beefier and goes together the same way but the flywheel is dished and the starter ring is on the flywheel instead of the intermediate plate so it all needs more room to slide back to go together. The TO bearing is hydraulic so no pivot arm. Doing the factory dual disk clutch is enough of a PITA that I did them with the engine out. Adding that the spec PP was a tad bit thicker and didnt have a place to put the shims in it made it a complete bear to do. Almost impossible to do by yourself.
Great info. Thanks for sharing. Did you happen to take any pictures of all this while it was going together?
Old 03-19-2020, 11:08 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Petza914
Great info. Thanks for sharing. Did you happen to take any pictures of all this while it was going together?
Since it is one of Gregs proprietary parts I don't want to post pics too detailed.
Old 03-23-2020, 02:43 PM
  #94  
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Huh...just like it was meant to be there. No more agonizing over what fluid to use. DOT 3 for the clutch and what ever I prefer for the brakes.




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Old 03-23-2020, 02:46 PM
  #95  
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Now to get the new blue hose installed.
Old 03-23-2020, 02:53 PM
  #96  
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Nice~! I'm going to follow in your footsteps and add some heat shield to the hose.
Old 03-23-2020, 05:10 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by olmann
Huh...just like it was meant to be there. No more agonizing over what fluid to use. DOT 3 for the clutch and what ever I prefer for the brakes.



Nice!
I think this looks like a good "insurance" policy, although if the seal in the Tilton T/O bearing is actually EPDM, it should not be an issue. I question what they have seen to recommend DOT 3 fluid.
Old 03-23-2020, 05:18 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Nice!
I think this looks like a good "insurance" policy, although if the seal in the Tilton T/O bearing is actually EPDM, it should not be an issue. I question what they have seen to recommend DOT 3 fluid.
I agree but I also like to be able to document a new resevior, new hose, new clutch master and new Tilton TO bearing. Maybe it was the heat added to the fluid from the brakes? Don't know. Now we can measure the heat from just the clutch usage?
Old 03-23-2020, 05:45 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by 928sg
I agree but I also like to be able to document a new resevior, new hose, new clutch master and new Tilton TO bearing. Maybe it was the heat added to the fluid from the brakes? Don't know. Now we can measure the heat from just the clutch usage?
The outer protection part of the hoses to Jim's clutch slave turned very dark brown and shrunk....lots of clutch heat in the bell housing area.
Old 03-23-2020, 06:58 PM
  #100  
Rob Edwards
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Greg, remind me (us) of the story about, was it, 964? 993? Cup car? bellhousing venting and clutch heat?
Old 03-23-2020, 07:10 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
The outer protection part of the hoses to Jim's clutch slave turned very dark brown and shrunk....lots of clutch heat in the bell housing area.
Because of the heat in the area around the clutch lines, and my headers, I added removable heat sleeving to everything in the area, power steering lines, battery cables, clutch lines, everything.
Old 03-23-2020, 09:13 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by 928sg
Because of the heat in the area around the clutch lines, and my headers, I added removable heat sleeving to everything in the area, power steering lines, battery cables, clutch lines, everything.
Good idea on the heat sleeving. I think I will do the same for the blue hose. Thanks!
Old 03-23-2020, 09:22 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
Greg, remind me (us) of the story about, was it, 964? 993? Cup car? bellhousing venting and clutch heat?
In the 993 models, Porsche had a suction hose from the clutch bell housing to the air filter, for cooling the clutch assembly.
I'm working on a cooling system for the 928 application, since every stock clutch we remove has insane amounts of "hot spots".
Old 04-12-2020, 03:02 PM
  #104  
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Love the avatar and quotes!
Old 04-12-2020, 03:06 PM
  #105  
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Very cool love the photo of the full scale plot.


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