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Old 11-29-2019, 02:22 PM
  #16  
Tom. M
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Just a note... I have USAA and like them, but in the end they are just another insurance company trying to save themselves money.. Looking at your pics, it's going to be a big bill. Rear quarter work, suspension work, mufflers, rear cover, rear lights etc. I suspect they will offer you 4 to 5k to write off the car rather than pay for the fix. Hold their feet to the fire and get some comps of other 83/84 928's in similar condition. Search here on rennlist as well as autotrader, cars.com, craigslist etc. The more data you have to present them with, the more you'll get in the end....
Good luck..
Old 11-29-2019, 02:28 PM
  #17  
JayPoorJay
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
Agree with the suggestion to get membership..

I would love to see pictures and would be happy to make an attempt at a virtual estimate. Labor rates are different all across the country. I own and operate a collision repair center in south central KY (cheaper labor rates) and we have great familiarity to the 928, and all of the required equipment to properly service the car. Plus, a complete inventory of Glasurit and other BASF chemicals. We're not afraid of your car if you can't find a reputable shop with any willingness in your area.

Also, we're a USAA "vendor" and are happy to work with them. They're one of the better companies to deal with in our part of the world. Considering the likely disparity in labor rates, sending the car to me could make sense as the savings in labor could help offset transport costs..

IF it doesn't total.. For which I can provide guidance to getting a higher valuation for the car if your inclination is to have it repaired.
This is good to know... Sadly, my costs would be out of pocket,,,, and I got some limited pockets... Hmm...

Can I send you some photos Klin, and you tell me what you think...?
Old 11-29-2019, 02:46 PM
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vanster
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Don't think twice about shipping your car to someone like Klin. Also USAA will undervalue the car and most likely push for a branded title if they can. Don't let them push you around. I had USAA when my car caught on fire and it took 6 months to get a settlement out of them that did not come with a branded title but I did it.
Big question...do your doors open and close as they should?
Once fixed use a collector car insurance company like Hagerty.
Old 11-29-2019, 07:56 PM
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Kiln_Red
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Originally Posted by JayPoorJay
This is good to know... Sadly, my costs would be out of pocket,,,, and I got some limited pockets... Hmm...

Can I send you some photos Klin, and you tell me what you think...?
Of course. It's what I do..

In the case of the OP's car, it is pretty obviously going to become a total loss. That said, make sure that you get a fair settlement. Happy to help however I can!
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Old 11-29-2019, 08:54 PM
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What is a "total loss"? I've seen Ferraris etc completely rebuilt from just a firewall. It's just time and money..any good panel beater can rebuild any car. It really depends on what you want.
Old 11-29-2019, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by vanster
What is a "total loss"? I've seen Ferraris etc completely rebuilt from just a firewall. It's just time and money..any good panel beater can rebuild any car. It really depends on what you want.
A Ferrari is one thing, a $5k 928 is another. That one is toast.
Old 11-29-2019, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vanster
What is a "total loss"? I've seen Ferraris etc completely rebuilt from just a firewall. It's just time and money..any good panel beater can rebuild any car. It really depends on what you want.
True..

A 'total loss' is just an economic reality. Not a determination that something CAN'T be fixed. A total loss occurs when the insurance company anticipates that expenses for repairs will become X% of a vehicle's fair market value. Then a settlement is attempted and, in most cases, the insurance company agrees to buy the car.
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Old 11-30-2019, 02:11 PM
  #23  
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It all depends on how important the car is to the individual.
Old 12-18-2019, 10:52 PM
  #24  
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Well, here is a little update on my car, I got the car off the sidewalk and into the street again. Have talked to some body shops and one so far has given me an estimate so that is good. Insurance company is playing phone tag and does not want to work with e mail so that is not as good. a couple of days ago I worked on the no start problem and found a solution. The car would turn over but not start, originally thought it could be a pinched fuel line or fuel pump damage due to the hit, decided to remove the battery to put on a charger to keep topped up as I bought it last year and is an agm group 94 so not cheap. when I opened up the bat compartment I found that the main pos wire was ok but the two other pos wires were loose from the connector. Last year I had reinstalled these wires in the connector but the hit I think was so hard it tore them loose. This time I decided to attatch each one to a separate connector to get a better fit and then reinstalled them with the fully charged battery. When I hit the key I had a good turn over and she started right up. So now she runs again. Here are some photos of the work.

Here is the small wire's w existing connector.

Here is the old connector on the left and one of the two new connectors on the right. I used Nalox on the wires after the crimp

Here is the wires installed on the bat.

here is the bat all covered up.
Old 12-18-2019, 11:54 PM
  #25  
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My car situation was a bit different than yours, but I had a good overall experience with USAA. I had to get my own comps as the ones they tried to use were not comparable to my car. I believe the only stipulation is that the cars could not be on EBay or Craigslist. I found comparable cars to mine, sent them the links and had a check in my hand on the 4th day after I sent my comps.

Sorry to hear about your car.
Old 12-19-2019, 09:26 AM
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What's back there is mostly hollow. The energy travels of course so there will be (slight but real) bends that travel, but again, it's mostly hollow and galvanized back there... It's not the worst thing in the world. If ya must, find a scrapper,,, cut that whole rear quarter out and weld the new skin over... I MIGHT have a scraper corner here (I'll have to check with a buddy).... Find a fairly cheap dude do the bang out stuff to cut costs and have an expert (Kiln like) do the fine tuning and finish work... Mine was in a similar accident...


Notice how wired the lines get on the far corner...
Old 12-19-2019, 01:18 PM
  #27  
Dark shark
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Thanks for the note. So far I have not been impressed by USAA but we will just see how things go.
Old 12-19-2019, 01:21 PM
  #28  
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Thanks for the note and photos Jay, The shop I have been talking to sent me an estiimate and would cut out the quarter and weld in a new one. The porsche repair manual give some info on doing that essentially cut out most of the quarter and weld in a new section.
Old 12-19-2019, 01:26 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Dark shark
Thanks for the note and photos Jay, The shop I have been talking to sent me an estiimate and would cut out the quarter and weld in a new one. The porsche repair manual give some info on doing that essentially cut out most of the quarter and weld in a new section.
It's very very doable... Very doable...
Insurance companies work on a calculous that meets their interests,,, of course they do (I think they are crooks and make the world of automotive tougher than it has to be)... What motivates them is certainly NOT what motivates me,,, nor do I allow their reality to impose itself on my own. They have their reality,,, I have mine, if that makes sense? Their box is not my box...
Old 12-19-2019, 01:28 PM
  #30  
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There was suspension damage on mine, as well. Doable.

I wish you the best and good outcomes, Brother.


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