Remove Roof Strip
#3
Rennlist Member
Oh boy...
Prepare yourself for the chance that you'll ruin it by trying to remove it. Raise the hatch and remove the screw in the jamb. The piece that the screw goes through is actually just lightly pressed into the end of the drip rail. Go ahead and remove it. Remove the windshield closeout trim. If the drip rail has never been removed before, then you'll need to get a heat gun ready. There is a bead of glue that should be reversed, a little at a time, before an attempt is made. The drip rail fit snuggly enough to work as 'friction fit', so the glue is overkill. I don't replace it.
Now, it's time to pry. I like to sit on the rocker and hold a small block of wood on the pinch welds for the door opening to pry against. I use a short pry bar and delicately work the drip rail off of the roof pinch welds. Now, even more gently, pry it away from the windshield. It should be 90% ready and it will probably only still be held at the last couple inches of roof skin pinch welds at the rear. DO NOT be tempted to grab it by hand and pull it off. I keep plastic packaging straps handy for this. I slip it between the drip rail and roof mating flange, wherever there is a void, and pull the strap toward the rear of the car. I have a helper to support the drip rail while I execute this final step.
Why do you need to remove it?
Prepare yourself for the chance that you'll ruin it by trying to remove it. Raise the hatch and remove the screw in the jamb. The piece that the screw goes through is actually just lightly pressed into the end of the drip rail. Go ahead and remove it. Remove the windshield closeout trim. If the drip rail has never been removed before, then you'll need to get a heat gun ready. There is a bead of glue that should be reversed, a little at a time, before an attempt is made. The drip rail fit snuggly enough to work as 'friction fit', so the glue is overkill. I don't replace it.
Now, it's time to pry. I like to sit on the rocker and hold a small block of wood on the pinch welds for the door opening to pry against. I use a short pry bar and delicately work the drip rail off of the roof pinch welds. Now, even more gently, pry it away from the windshield. It should be 90% ready and it will probably only still be held at the last couple inches of roof skin pinch welds at the rear. DO NOT be tempted to grab it by hand and pull it off. I keep plastic packaging straps handy for this. I slip it between the drip rail and roof mating flange, wherever there is a void, and pull the strap toward the rear of the car. I have a helper to support the drip rail while I execute this final step.
Why do you need to remove it?
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Cheers. You dont have a pict of the prying operation?
The one on my GTS is slightly dented. I gave a parts car with a perfect one. Saves me 150$ if I can remove the one from the parts car.
The one on my GTS is slightly dented. I gave a parts car with a perfect one. Saves me 150$ if I can remove the one from the parts car.
#5
Rennlist Member
Hope this helps.
#6
Rennlist Member
They're thin, a complex shape, and glued..and available new.
You wont likely be able to save them without some form of visible damage/warping. Ive had more luck removing upper windscreen trim without damage than these pieces.
You wont likely be able to save them without some form of visible damage/warping. Ive had more luck removing upper windscreen trim without damage than these pieces.
#8
Rennlist Member
I remove them every time I do paint work. In my opinion, it's the only way to properly do it. I haven't warped one in a very long time, but I do still maintain my extras as I can't guarantee a 100% success rate in removing and installing them. I hope I never warp one again, but it's still just that.. a hope.
I like Ken's suggestion. While I don't believe in painting the roof and/or quarters with these in place, I see no issue with painting them on the car. A proper, diligent mask job and competent prep should render a durable, good job.
The only caveat I see is potential for sending a little unwanted dust into the cabin.
I like Ken's suggestion. While I don't believe in painting the roof and/or quarters with these in place, I see no issue with painting them on the car. A proper, diligent mask job and competent prep should render a durable, good job.
The only caveat I see is potential for sending a little unwanted dust into the cabin.
#11
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This is my technique: plastic shims, start at the back and tap, tap, tap your way to the front.
#12
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Getting ‘around the corner’ is tricky.
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checkmate1996 (04-12-2024)
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#15
Rennlist Member
I remove them every time I do paint work. In my opinion, it's the only way to properly do it. I haven't warped one in a very long time, but I do still maintain my extras as I can't guarantee a 100% success rate in removing and installing them. I hope I never warp one again, but it's still just that.. a hope.
I like Ken's suggestion. While I don't believe in painting the roof and/or quarters with these in place, I see no issue with painting them on the car. A proper, diligent mask job and competent prep should render a durable, good job.
The only caveat I see is potential for sending a little unwanted dust into the cabin.
I like Ken's suggestion. While I don't believe in painting the roof and/or quarters with these in place, I see no issue with painting them on the car. A proper, diligent mask job and competent prep should render a durable, good job.
The only caveat I see is potential for sending a little unwanted dust into the cabin.