Kiln_Red

No glue.

Unfortunately, it must be barely tweaked out of alignment. Even if it is undetectable by sight. There is a workaround.. Take 3/4"" mask tape and tape the pinch welds. Let any excess tape fold over to the underside. If you can install it with anything short of a rubber mallet and generous swings, then there isn't enough tape. This will lock it into place for a friction fit.

The only type of glue that would do the job you're asking it to do is of the structural variety. I don't like permanent solutions.

Adamant1971

I found this thread and started my drip rail removal today. I used a combination of the tips here, they were re-painted and installed with sealant (ARRG) so I am also using heat which has helped a great deal. Passenger side off with no damage.

As others have stated go slow slow slow.

Mrmerlin

NOTE while working with the door open make sure to disconnect the battery otherwise you might cause other issues that you cant see.
Once the door is open ,
the interior lamp circuit is energized, this turns on a relay and powers the rear door edge lamps and any interior lamps that are turned on.
If you were to inspect the CE panel after about 20 mins you would see that the relay is pretty warm as are the door lamps if they are working.

Plus you will be discharging the battery potentially leading to an unstart and damaging the start and running relays due to not enough closing voltage.

Adamant1971

Good idea thanks Stan, will disconnect for the driver side.

Speedtoys

So..why do these relays run so warm, on such a low current?

I need to pull one, look at the coil resistance of an everyday #53 relay..at maybe..150ma coil voltage..that does seem like much heat at 1.8w. Contact resistance on the load side?

Mrmerlin

Try it leave your door open for 10 mins see how warm the relay on the CE panel gets.
I had no idea that was happening till one time I happened to check the CE panel for something,
this on a car that had a door open for a while.

NOTE it can also cause the overhead lamps to melt if the door is left open long enough with the interior lights on

Adamant1971

Success.

Not shown but I did end up putting my service covers (folded) over the windshield as well. The driver-side lower portion was the hardest of all and I had to tap at with the plastic tool and hammer way more than the rest. One slip and its bye-bye windshield, so I figured the more protection the better. I also had to heat the driver's side considerably more.

Now it's time for a cold one.

545svk

May be a silly question, but in what way and direction did you apply force to get them off?

Adamant1971

The plastic tool in that picture was used per Dave’s method of tapping from rear to front to slowly release the rail, I switched back and fourth from working it that way and also from the inside with the same tool leveraged on a small piece of wood. Super tiny movements.

monkez

here's a video i saw a while back. this guy has 3 videos on how he removed this.

good luck!

PK68

A bit off-topic but isn't the roof strip the same for old/new look models? Part No 92855911904. It certainly appears so from the diagram.

Darklands

Jochen, the owner of my 928 shop told me the new stripes have a bad fitting on the cars so they don ‚t remove the old ones because the danger to bend them is too high,
Making a 928 ready for a high class paintwork is a real pita.

PK68

Thank you Karsten! Problem is that I am missing the old ones for my MY86 Euro,but I may have found some used ones from a 928S4 broken for parts.

Darklands

The stripes are the same for all years but the Porsche reproduction isn‘t the same shape.