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I am rebuilding the front suspension on my 79. I misplaced one of the nuts that hold on the lower ball joints. I was thinking of just buying 4 new metric nuts. They are M12 1.5. Are these factory nuts tapered at the top for a reason? They don't appear to be locking nuts? I was considering replacing these with either regular grade 8 nuts with lock washers, or a grade 8 serrated metric nuts if I can find them.. Any thoughts on the matter? Thanks a lot.
I believe they are jam nuts. If I was in your place I would call one of the 928 Parts suppliers and get a replacement nut or substitute a Grade 8 Nylock nut. The serrated nut would most likely move the alignment settings as you tighten it
Great, thanks a bunch guys! Looks like these are the original nuts. I think I will order some new ones for good measure. How does a locking conical nut work? Is the thread tapered at the top of the nut or something so that it squeezes itself on? Are these better than just using a standard nut and lock washer? Just curious is all. I'm trying to finally get this front end rebuilt. I am trying those newer upper and lower control arm bushings from powerflex. The original set I got from them were too big.and would not fit. I had to assist them with some detailed measurements and they remade me a set that fits perfectly. Makes me feel like I was one of the first to try their 928 bushings (bought them a while back). There are guys on the list that say not to use poly bushings, but there's no turning back now. Personally, I think my front suspension, between the Koni's and poly bushings is gonna rock. Only time will tell!
Great, thanks a bunch guys! Looks like these are the original nuts. I think I will order some new ones for good measure. How does a locking conical nut work? Is the thread tapered at the top of the nut or something so that it squeezes itself on? Are these better than just using a standard nut and lock washer? Just curious is all. I'm trying to finally get this front end rebuilt. I am trying those newer upper and lower control arm bushings from powerflex. The original set I got from them were too big.and would not fit. I had to assist them with some detailed measurements and they remade me a set that fits perfectly. Makes me feel like I was one of the first to try their 928 bushings (bought them a while back). There are guys on the list that say not to use poly bushings, but there's no turning back now. Personally, I think my front suspension, between the Koni's and poly bushings is gonna rock. Only time will tell!
Time has already answered this....several times.
The front lower control arm bushings are a major portion of both the spring rate and the compression/rebound rate of the shocks. Removing the rubber bushings will completely change what is required for springs and shock valving. The same is true for the upper "A" arms, but to a lesser extent.
It is certainly possible to return the car to a point where it handles like it did when Porsche made it, but that will require more effort and more experimentation than most people are willing/able to undertake.
A very quick experiment and a tiny amount of logic will show you the extent of the issue.
With everything removed from the front end, simply bolt on a good (rubber bushings intact) lower contol arm and attempt to move the arm up and down. You will find that moving the arm, even an inch, requires a tremendous amount of force (more than your body weight.) It will also be obvious that the farther you desire to move the arm, the greater the effort.
This tells you that the rubber bushings a major portion of the spring rate and are progressive in that spring rate.
Simple logic tells you the rest: Removal of that rubber and then the installation of "free movement" bushings is going to be a radical change of both the spring rate and the required shock valving to "contol" the front suspension.
Last edited by GregBBRD; Sep 18, 2019 at 02:40 PM.
Thank you. I am sure that you are correct on this, and I know that this subject has been beaten to death. Money has been an issue during my whole project making things move PAINFULLY slow. I opted to try the aftermarket bushings because they were less expensive. I figured that if things didn't work out, I could always go back to rubber bushings later.
Up until I took it apart, the car rode very stiff. I did a rebuild mostly because I had the front end apart anyhow to upgrade the older crossmember to the later type so that I can use the better, later motor mounts. I figured, I may as well replace these old bushings with 150K miles on them. These powerflex bushings are supposed to be better than regular poly bushings and will hopefully last a long time. My car has eibach lowering springs all around and Koni adjustable gas shocks what were set pretty firm. Hopefully, I think I can get the car to ride pretty good with some tweaking, only time will tell. If it doesn't, it's not the end of the world. I will let you guys know when I get it back on the road.
I just did powerflex lower control arm bushes. They are amazing. Far more precision and steering feel. Ride quality is about the same but impact shocks through the chassis are less resonant.
Thank you. I am sure that you are correct on this, and I know that this subject has been beaten to death. Money has been an issue during my whole project making things move PAINFULLY slow. I opted to try the aftermarket bushings because they were less expensive. I figured that if things didn't work out, I could always go back to rubber bushings later.
Up until I took it apart, the car rode very stiff. I did a rebuild mostly because I had the front end apart anyhow to upgrade the older crossmember to the later type so that I can use the better, later motor mounts. I figured, I may as well replace these old bushings with 150K miles on them. These powerflex bushings are supposed to be better than regular poly bushings and will hopefully last a long time. My car has eibach lowering springs all around and Koni adjustable gas shocks what were set pretty firm. Hopefully, I think I can get the car to ride pretty good with some tweaking, only time will tell. If it doesn't, it's not the end of the world. I will let you guys know when I get it back on the road.
Anyhow, thanks for the info on the suspension.
It turns out that you have some of the pieces I was going to suggest. The Eibach springs are also stiffer than stock...which should be a good match with your new contol arm bushings.
Simply find a set of stock rear springs (or it will oversteer like a poorly set-up 911), back off on the stiffness of the Koni's and I suspect that you will end up with a pretty well balanced car, which will drive nicely.
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Wanna Replace Both Nuts...
