Speedtoys

Also have a Hammer to help bleed with.

Looks like an annoying dirty job.

Kevin in Atlanta

Stan's words follow:
to remove the booster you will need a piece of wood,
a paint stick doubled up is perfect with a hole drilled in it, a piece of fuel line,
and a screw clamp and a helper.
After the MC has been removed ,
Get your helper to press the pedal to the floor,
fit the 2 wood strips over the push rod on the booster,

NOTE the hole in the wood should just fit the booster push rod.
then press the fuel line onto the rod then clamp it.

The hose will hold the rod in the extended position without gouging its shank,
the wood will be the support so the face of the booster doesn't get scratched.

NOTE simply clamping a set of vice grips onto the booster push rod may permanently damage it .
A new booster is about 245.00

NOTE what you don't want to do is scratch the pushrod,
and or scratch the mating surface of the booster where brake master cylinder seats.

NOTE a leak will begin and the power effect of the booster will be lost.

Once the pushrod is secured,
then release the pedal,
then the remove the parcel tray,
then remove the clevis pin ,
and then undo the 4 nuts that anchor the booster.

NOTE a 12 in. long extension, and a universal joint,
and 13mm deep socket are great for this job.

NOTE fitting a booster is also best done by putting the pushrod into its extended position then clamping it

Speedtoys

Sounds easier after a 2nd read..if one was replacing both with new, sounds a little easier still.

Kevin in Atlanta

I fashioned a metal plate instead of Stan's pieces of wood. But, it's the same process.

Use a vice grips and don't be afraid to seriously clamp it - you want to be sure the clamping force is sufficient such that the rod does not slip through the fuel line and hose clamp(optional)

Good luck

Jason89s4

^^^ What Kevin and Stan said. Getting the new booster in, you will find a similar situation--you need a way to keep the rod depressed to make it easier to get it through the firewall and position the booster. So, similar method in reverse.
If you do not already have them, obtain a set of "stubby" or short metric open end wrenches. When you get to the part of removing the M/C you will know why. Something like this:
Also, to anyone that has their engine out and is re-assembling their vehicle for later....replace the booster while the engine is out. Whether you think you need it or not. Spend the $$ on a new booster and do it the easy way. Trust me.
-Jason

skpyle

Agreed. I had the cam covers off and it was still a b*tch to remove the booster on my Red Witch. The new booster and new master cylinder are going back in BEFORE the engine does.

Mrmerlin

Seth smart move that’s how it was done on the production line

Petza914

Guess I missed my chance to WYAIT on this when doing my engine swap - whoops.

Rob Edwards

Lateral BMC to booster 13 mm nut, be loosened!

Ed Petry

I used a piece of 1/8” aluminum and a hose clamp on both the old booster and the new booster. No mark and the shaft and held great without slipping.
Replace the clutch MC while you’re in there(if you have a 5-speed).
Did mine with the engine in. Fun stuff.

The Forgotten On

I replaced both in my 81. The crossed circuits make getting to all the lines so much more fun. All 4 of them

Only thing I can say is to take your time and don't force it. The painter's stick trick worked well for me as others have recommended.