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With a coolant change and other workings the T stat and rear seal should atleast be inspected.
If its older than 8 years it is quite possible the rear seal could have failed.
This would make the engine run warmer
This thread appears to be being treated as though you really do have a problem but unless I am being a bit dumb somewhere along the line [distinctly possible!] I am not picking up any signs of what the issue is.
Perhaps you can clarify what issue still concerns you [if any].
I’m sorry you guys, meant to get online yesterday but then got pulled away.
Currently, it’s running at my normal temps so hopefully the issue seems to be resolved.
Only difference I can see is that the coolant level was not entirely overflowing over threads when I changed the Temp 2 sensor yesterday, and last time it was. I’m guessing there are still some isolated pockets of air that will shake out with more driving.
Speaking of, the lean condition remains.
I put a narrowband on the o2 sensor and it doesn’t jive with the wideband, so I might be chasing my tail. I will post that up when I know more.
Have you double checked the O2 sensor calibration both sensors should be close if you find a difference in readings then you might have a vacuum leak or a misfire / bad wire or cap or clogged / leaking injector
Have you double checked the O2 sensor calibration both sensors should be close if you find a difference in readings then you might have a vacuum leak or a misfire / bad wire or cap or clogged / leaking injector
My hunch is the AFR’s I’m looking at are garbage. But, I do think there is a misfire at least at idle, so that’s what I will try to systematically eliminate this weekend.
I need it perfect for the track next month to make up for my skill level
we had a car that was tuned with a ST it had also recently had new Bosch caps installed along with new Beru wires
The engine would run smooth when it was cold and after about 15 mins of running the idle would start to get rough
this would kick on the ignition monitoring relay.
Since we had 2 O 2 sensors it was easier to see that the mixtures were not even from each bank
A lil bit of testing found the misfiring plug swappen in an old cap and everything worked great
we had a car that was tuned with a ST it had also recently had new Bosch caps installed along with new Beru wires
The engine would run smooth when it was cold and after about 15 mins of running the idle would start to get rough
this would kick on the ignition monitoring relay.
Since we had 2 O 2 sensors it was easier to see that the mixtures were not even from each bank
A lil bit of testing found the misfiring plug swappen in an old cap and everything worked great
So this is why you always listen to Stan gentlemen.
I did did a smoke test today and localized a big vacc leak at the drivers rear intake manifold/head.
When I pulled it apart I found the gasket had shifted, probably during install, and was pushed out of position over seven and eight.
With new gasket on I have steady idle and AFR 14.6.
Should have bought a smoke machine six months ago. They really are quite reasonable now, and I’m not talking paint can conversions.
Anyway, I will update the original lean thread.
I guess I was expecting a higher idle or lower vac readings with a big leak. Go figure.
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