Speedtoys

Link below.

It has instructions and directions to move things.

This is significantly easier with the wheels off.

chart928s4

I agree generally but I was just making the point that there is a free first step that might be 'good enough'. The OP was advised to have a pro replace his entire suspension earlier by a couple of veterans, which is great for the car but very pricey.

FredR

As we summised your front end is way too low. Given those numbers I would initially attempt to raise the front ride height to 162mm which from memory is the low end of the range Porsche considers acceptable for the 928 and coincidentally is somewhere around where mine sits albeit I have stiffer springs but that is another matter. I work on the premise that keeping the factory front to rear height differential is essential and as I recall that differential is 7mm. My interpretation of the WSM is that the 180mm number only to applies to vehicles with totally brand new components and that Porsche expect some initial settlement probably coming from the springs. Thus a normal ride height would be 170mm front and 163mm rear. If you see photos of 928's as they left the factory the front looks ridiculously high and the above may explain this.

As you lift the front end ride height the amount of negative camber will decrease and the amount of toe in will increase when the car has settled. My guess is that you do not know what the alignment settings are at the moment so impossible to predict where they might end up. Too much toe in will scrub the front tyres thus a good alignment at the settled height should be the order of the day unless you intend to refresh the suspension system either partially or in totality. Based on your photos I suspect the car lacked the kind of attention you might now be prepared to put into it but as noted, refreshing the suspension/steering is never going to be cheap. If still original the front dampers will be well past their best, the upper arms may well have some slop in the ball joints. The lower arms seem much more resilient but how they perform is somewhat indeterminate.

Bottom line: to perform well the system needs to be in tip top condition..

Start with Jeff's spreadsheet to work out how many turns you have to

Christopher Zach

It's more of a "why is my car making loud banging noises" thread. Switching shocks if needed is within the scope of my abilities, but replacing the links is something I would leave to a professional. The fact that the car is low probably explains the hitting things with the spoiler, so I'll crank it back up to the factory height then drive it 100 miles, then get an alignment from the local mechanic and ensure he doesn't lift the car off the wheels.

C

Speedtoys

i guess if you want to pay someone to do it..thats fine.

But a lower control arm is WAY WAY easier than replacing shocks, in fact, the arm has 5 of the 6 fasteners already out to do it.

Just one more..you can do it.

GregBBRD

Just one more note. Those grade 10.9 bolts which hold in the lower control arms, which will be covered with rust and pits on the untreated portion of the bolt, are junk in every sense of the word.

Always replace any bolt that is compromised by corrosion, but especially any main structural bolt. Any bolt that is marked "10.9" or "12.9" needs special attention to its' condition.

This is so common, that you should order these bolts, new, before undertaking any work. One of the bolts is NLA, however, we stock multiples of this hardware and you can purchase it by calling Mary.

gb