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Old 10-28-2019, 07:37 PM
  #31  
rjtw
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Did you check the tightness of the two bolts holding on your existing oil filler/separator? I found mine were only finger tight at most, having compressed the paper gasket and never having been touched since the factory! That had definitely been causing a leak down the front of the block on mine.

Was there any evidence of oil on the front of the block except around the dipstick or oil return lines? Hmmm...
Old 10-28-2019, 07:51 PM
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I had a dipstick extension on mine and oil was being pushed out the dipstick and then the extension was directing that pressurized oil back to the front of the oil pan making it look like the OPG was leaking. Make sure the dipstick itself is sealing well in the dipstick tube too. Now I'm using a 928MS extended handle dipstick with double oring seals on the collar that mates with the dipstick tube.


Old 10-29-2019, 12:36 AM
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bit more info. Sealed up dipstick screw in area - new copper washer, gasket goo. Went out - short steep uphill, short steep downhill, uphill, then 500yd downhill, short flat section, inspected - damp and shiny around the dipstick base. Wiped clean with paper towel. A mile later on flat ground, checked again, dry. Uphill, short steep downhill, checked - damp, shiny, maybe some oil on the bottom edge of the centre belt cover directly above the dipstick nut. Only shows a leak when there has been some nose down running, NOT one drop from 30-40 mins stationary running on level surface.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Old 10-29-2019, 01:25 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rjtw
Did you check the tightness of the two bolts holding on your existing oil filler/separator? I found mine were only finger tight at most, having compressed the paper gasket and never having been touched since the factory! That had definitely been causing a leak down the front of the block on mine.

Was there any evidence of oil on the front of the block except around the dipstick or oil return lines? Hmmm...
No evidence of oil on block except around dipstick. How do you get at the filler/separator bolts - not readily visible? What has to be removed to get to them?
Stupid part is that there were no leaks before this work started, so it unlikely (but not impossible) that there is crankcase pressurization now, but wasnt there before. Absolutely NO leaks while running on level surface, only visible after some nose down running.
thanks
jp 83 Euro AT 57k
Old 10-29-2019, 04:23 PM
  #35  
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Hi JP,
It doesn't sound like the oil separator is the issue, but FYI, one bolt is visible on the upper left of the oil filler neck (as you look from the front of the engine), and the second bolt is accessed by taking off the black plastic filler top and then pulling out the screen (the bolt is down inside). Both are super easy to access without removing anything else. I still have a new gasket for mine, which I'll save until whenever and if I ever need to remove the water bridge, but tightening up the bolts with the existing (original) gasket totally stopped my leak!

Good luck on finding and fixing that pesky leak. Another possibility -- is it possible that the pan gasket is leaking in that area? That might also explain the downhill leak.

How about running the car on some flat streets to get the car fully warmed (but having the leaky area stay completely clean), then coming back home and use ramps or jacks to get the back up, then seeing if gravity alone will cause the leak -- hopefully allowing you to pinpoint it?

Rick
Old 10-29-2019, 11:42 PM
  #36  
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If the oil separator was a problem I would expect false air to affect the idle at least, but that area is all stable and good.
To top it all off the electric fan switch seems to have died - temps got up to second mark without fans. Shorting the connectors produced fans, so the supporting wiring is OK.
The first oil sign is above the pan gasket, so I doubt its there. If it was the tensioner I would expect 40 mins of level running to produce a leak - going to see if it keeps coming back each run, or was it a one off.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Last edited by jpitman2; 10-30-2019 at 02:38 AM.
Old 11-05-2019, 11:41 PM
  #37  
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Due to the fan switch death I let it sit until today. Fitted new switch, wiped front of block and pan dry, went out. 10Mi run, some downhill work - no signs of leakage. Might have been an overfilled tensioner blowing excess out? I think the leak is now gone, but watching for signs after each run. Sadly the new fan switch is hanging the fans on well after it should have opened circuit, so it might have to go back. Other than that, the magic carpet is back! After a couple more runs without problems will refit the front belly pan.
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Old 11-22-2019, 03:35 AM
  #38  
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Back again. Refitted belly pan. Found the 2 bolts holding the oil separator on, got a good 1/4 turn on each. Go for a run - first symptom - idle is low, even in neutral - ~600rpm. The way I read the separator hose arrangement is that a leak at its fixings could produce false air into the intake, not seen by the air plate. Or could it be I didnt get the timing right when I re-installed the dizzy? Better check that too. Been a long time since I touched the timing.
Got nicely hot in some stop go traffic - oil leak is back, but less than before - when its cooled down will open the tensioner bleeder and see if anything comes out. Had to add 1/2 L to top oil off. Opened idle screw 1.5 turns, not much response in rpm?? Verified voltmeter reads at least 1V low compared to hot post reading. Remember that when I first tried to locate oil leak I ran it for 20mins stationary on a flat surface, several electric fan cycles, and saw ZERO oil anywhere. This run I did go down a steep hill early in the run.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Old 11-22-2019, 07:20 PM
  #39  
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You mention the tensioner as suspect. Is it possible that oil is dripping out the tensioner adjustment bolt? Here’s an idea - I coated mine with teflon pipe sealant, and (in a classic moment of belt and suspenders thinking) put on a special washer that Paul (“mit Wasser”) had used and kindly sent an extra my way!



Old 11-22-2019, 08:22 PM
  #40  
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Having watched the area while running for 20mins+, no sign of oil on that bolt. If it was that bolt the oil would be a long way from where I see it, and its alwats been dry. Today I saw oil appear around the boss that the dipstick tube screws into as it was running. After shut off I found the bottom edge of the centre cover just above that area was wet with oil, so I believe the tensioner gasket is leaking and running into the cover from above, then dripping onto the dipstick boss. Gasket ordered just now. Next hope is that I can get the centre cover clear enough of the tensioner to allow its removal without dropping everything else off the engine. Really dont want to drop the alternator AGAIN!
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Old 11-22-2019, 08:35 PM
  #41  
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Why not use the Porken tensioner and not worry about any of that? That's what I did during my build and its great.
Old 11-22-2019, 10:16 PM
  #42  
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Same amount of work either way, trivial cost in a gasket. With a non-interference engine tensioner function is not critical. Never had an issue so far.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Old 11-24-2019, 11:38 PM
  #43  
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Making progress. Drained oil, removed oil pipe to pan, top RHS belt cover, all the accessory belts, Dipstick tube, centre cover fixing bolts, remove fixing bolt for LHS top belt cover, and I can get the cover clear enough to access the tensioner. Visible signs of oil inside the cover. Now to see if I can tie the tension roller arm to something (on the waterpump?) to keep temsion up while I remove the tensioner and fit a new gasket. No disturbance of the alternator or its fixings...so far! I wrecked a Miata for the drivetrain a few years ago, and just found in the bits bag a nice M8 wingbolt - a bit long, but will screw into the water pump fan bolt holes.
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jp 83 Euro S AT 57k Garage Bitch at the moment!
Old 11-25-2019, 09:57 PM
  #44  
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More questions. Is this coppery look normal for the discs?
When the bolt that goes into the oil gallery is removed, oil dribbles out. Why doesnt oil dribble from the area where oil is supplied to the rear of the tensioner?
Gasket was damaged when I got the body of the tensioner clear, but its not obvious when that occurred....previous install, or this removal?
Is there somehwere that shows how the discs are sequenced? I feel I have seen a diagram of the difference between the 7 sets of 5 , and another setup?
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thanks
Edit - found pics on P15-22. Doesnt quite fit with my unit in one way - my adjusting bolt is solid, not hollow. It presses on a piston sealed to the bore with an Oring(no signs of leakage here), with a little valve in it - see page 15-24.
I have Loctite No3 Aviation non-hardening gasket goo, and Permatex Ultra Grey - which is best for this gasket please?

jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Last edited by jpitman2; 11-26-2019 at 01:06 AM.
Old 11-26-2019, 03:39 AM
  #45  
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Your washers are not configured correctly, I think. Here’s what mine looked like. 7 sets of 5.





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