This past weekend I got the pulley modifications completed, except for torqueing the pulley bolt. For that I need a big honkin torque wrench......

And I installed the bracket, blower, air tube between the blower and the intercooler, the air dam at the top of the radiator, new lower radiator hose and made the modifications to the upper coolant resovoir hose.

Only problem encountered was getting the cap head bolts out of the waterpump. They were in too tight to avoid stripping the metric allen heads out of them. I drilled a pilot hole in the cap heads with a small bit and followed with another bit about 3/16" in diameter, (just what I thought was under the od of the bolt thread). Drilled about 3/16" deep, banged an easy-out into the hole and they twisted out by hand. This was not the first time these bolts had been out, because Gretch has had two timing belt surgeries in her 98,000 mile life. They looked undamaged though so I am guessing they had been replaced.

All other aspects of this piece of the install went fine. Everything fit very well with sufficient clearance for all the moving parts. I did speak with Tim over the phone a couple of times, once to get clarification on some torque specifications, and the second time he called to ask me some questions and tell me that he had some upgrade components he wanted me to test on my install.

I put another 12 hours into it this weekend. However I am taking my time and enjoying myself. Couple of guys dropped by to drink some beers and admire the install, and I would guess I put an extra hour into getting the cap had bolts out of the H2O pump.



I will post some pictures tomorrow.

 

Congrats on the progress!

 

Sounds good!

Did you get the fuel pressure straightened out? I left a message on your cell several weeks ago.

Sears has a decent 250 ft lb torque wrench that you can use for that 218 ft lb bolt.

 

I bought a 3', 3/4" drive 250 ft/lb wrench at Harbor Freight for ~$60.

 

So when I used the flywheel lock and a 4 foot bar to pull down my full weight on the crank bolt, that wasn't specificallyt a good idea? It came off fine though.

 

Brendan, they are talking about tighteneing the bolt. Loosening was discussed in another thread.

Gretch, just put a four foot extension onto your 3/4" drive breaker bar and tighten the $hit out of it. You can feel the bolt stretch.

There are some nice backlit "fuel pressure" gauges on eBay to use for boost pressure. Each pound is ~1/4" resolution on the gauge, and is much easier to read than a compound gauge (no vacuum reading, though).

nice (cheap) backlit gauge

 

Lag, yes, thanks for the call. I spoke to Tim about the fuel pressure and then turned up adjustment screw. I get static pressure at about 40 pounds, but idle pressure with the vacuum line attached is at 32 pounds. The adjustment screw is all the way in, but not bottomed out. I will prolly change the spring and re set it. I got a good wrench from NAPA. It was a bit more expensive than the one PorKen bought, but it is a click style that I can slide my 4 ft "persuader" over to get some good leverage.

Brendan, I think it was a great idea.....

Old & New..........I think I will use a bit more science if you don't object.....

 

Damn that looks nice.. Thanks for sharing!

 

Gretch,

I'm glad you didn't take me seriously

 

sweanders, here is a shot of the pulley install. Believe me they are a thing of beauty.................Tim has done a really nice job on this kit.

 

Old, take a snap shot of your gage set up and post it. I see you are using a sender on the end of the fuel rail, as opposed the gage.

 

The sender instead of the guage definitely helps it to look more "stock."

Gretch, any plans for painting or covering the intercooler?

Gauge pictures and placement info would be interesting. Thanks all.

 

The intercooler is a work of art, I wouldn't do anything to it.

I have a gauge on the end of my fuel rail, see first picture posted above. In place of my ash tray is a gauge face plate with two gauges, Boost and AFM. I also will have a small switch (and indicator light) on the face plate to actuate the water pump for the intercooler.


Jeeze this is fun................

 

Ok, that pulley pic got me curious? How do you get the rest of the accessory belts on the crankshaft to line up with the AC..ALT..PWR steering..Airpump...and the SC?

Are there other pulleys involved that bring the running plane of the accessories forward to make room for the SC pulley at the back?

Obviously it works, but i just dont see how theres room to add the pulley?

 

Spacers are used to align the power steering and air pump pulleys.

The alternator gets a four rib belt in place of the OEM six rib.

Gauge pix forthcoming.