oxygen sensor delete
02-18-2004, 06:39 PM
#17
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Originally posted by Aguila
VU:
Can you point me to some pictorial illustrations on doing the test? blowing propane to engine with a blow torch conjures up image of fire destruction to my shark...
Thanks
VU:
Can you point me to some pictorial illustrations on doing the test? blowing propane to engine with a blow torch conjures up image of fire destruction to my shark...
Thanks
BTW also good for finding a vacuum leak.......idle raises a bit when the propane is ingested into the failed vacuum connection.......
02-18-2004, 06:58 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Originally posted by gbyron
While we're on the techie side of things, a narrow-band O2 sensor is really just a stoich indicator. It is reliably accurate ONLY in around (varies a bit) the 14:1 to 15:1 fuel/air mix range. It is most accurate at (surprise) 14.7:1 (lambda).
Once you leave it's very narrow band of design, the outputs are completely non-linear, and in fact, are often damn-near random.
Disconnecting your O2 sensor is a guarantee of unpredictable and unreliable results, which will, at best, be bad.
While we're on the techie side of things, a narrow-band O2 sensor is really just a stoich indicator. It is reliably accurate ONLY in around (varies a bit) the 14:1 to 15:1 fuel/air mix range. It is most accurate at (surprise) 14.7:1 (lambda).
Once you leave it's very narrow band of design, the outputs are completely non-linear, and in fact, are often damn-near random.
Disconnecting your O2 sensor is a guarantee of unpredictable and unreliable results, which will, at best, be bad.
Believe it or not, the O2 sensor is a good thing while under cruise conditions. At WOT, it is completely ignored by the computer by design.
02-18-2004, 07:18 PM
#19
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hahaha, oh man.
I have no intention to "light" the torch. Just that I've never seen it done before and I was uncomfortable performing the task without getting more detail.
Is this a standard method for troubleshooting? Is it applicable to anything else besides the O2 sensor and vacuum?
better ask stupid questions now than pay the monstrous repair bills later.
I have no intention to "light" the torch. Just that I've never seen it done before and I was uncomfortable performing the task without getting more detail.
Is this a standard method for troubleshooting? Is it applicable to anything else besides the O2 sensor and vacuum?
better ask stupid questions now than pay the monstrous repair bills later.
02-18-2004, 07:39 PM
#20
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Originally posted by Aguila
hahaha, oh man.
I have no intention to "light" the torch. Just that I've never seen it done before and I was uncomfortable performing the task without getting more detail.
Is this a standard method for troubleshooting? Is it applicable to anything else besides the O2 sensor and vacuum?
better ask stupid questions now than pay the monstrous repair bills later.
hahaha, oh man.
I have no intention to "light" the torch. Just that I've never seen it done before and I was uncomfortable performing the task without getting more detail.
Is this a standard method for troubleshooting? Is it applicable to anything else besides the O2 sensor and vacuum?
better ask stupid questions now than pay the monstrous repair bills later.
02-19-2004, 01:09 AM
#21
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Two ways to test the O2 sensor while installed in the car.
1) Put a small wire in the O2 sensor plug (back of the engine) and test it with the plug still connected. If the system is in closed loop, the reading should bounce between 0.7 Volts and 0.3 volts. If it is doing this, the O2 sensor is working. If it stays at a constant volatage, try the next test.
2)Check the voltage (engine and exhaust hot) with the key on but the engine off. It should show a voltage around 0.4 - 0.5 volts. Start the engine, if it is running rich the voltage will be greater then 0.7 volts, if it is running lean it will be under 0.3 volts. Create a small vacuum leak, this should drop the voltage around a tenth of a volt. If it does, the O2 sensor is working.
1) Put a small wire in the O2 sensor plug (back of the engine) and test it with the plug still connected. If the system is in closed loop, the reading should bounce between 0.7 Volts and 0.3 volts. If it is doing this, the O2 sensor is working. If it stays at a constant volatage, try the next test.
2)Check the voltage (engine and exhaust hot) with the key on but the engine off. It should show a voltage around 0.4 - 0.5 volts. Start the engine, if it is running rich the voltage will be greater then 0.7 volts, if it is running lean it will be under 0.3 volts. Create a small vacuum leak, this should drop the voltage around a tenth of a volt. If it does, the O2 sensor is working.
02-19-2004, 03:44 PM
#23
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Yes, you can remove the o2 sensor, but it makes only IDLE mixutures and Part throttle mixture richer. Has NO effect on full throttle mixtures.
no bandaid for any intake or exhaust changes here.
if you dont have a full regulator (adjustable) and want more fuel pressure, you can clamp off the fuel return line from one of the regulators if you have an older 2 valver. if you have an S4, you may be able to clamp the return line down part way to increase fuel pressure. S4s pretty much require an adustable fuel regulator
MK
no bandaid for any intake or exhaust changes here.
if you dont have a full regulator (adjustable) and want more fuel pressure, you can clamp off the fuel return line from one of the regulators if you have an older 2 valver. if you have an S4, you may be able to clamp the return line down part way to increase fuel pressure. S4s pretty much require an adustable fuel regulator
MK
Originally posted by PorKen
If you ground the oxygen sensor wire to the ECU, it will richen the mix.
Works as a band-aid fix for a big bore exhaust if you don't have an adjustable FPR (and don't care about gas mileage).
If you ground the oxygen sensor wire to the ECU, it will richen the mix.
Works as a band-aid fix for a big bore exhaust if you don't have an adjustable FPR (and don't care about gas mileage).
