firemn131

Thanks Speed,

I have the associate copper wire lengths cut from 165 mm through 185.
I do use the lug on the LCA as my definitive measuring point.

Previously I did the pull down method from the lift.

I just now set the collars to the factor setting again and will bounce it around . I use the fender measure as a gouge to see if I am going in the right direction.

I had previously used you spread sheet, but my work machine will not allow it to open.

was just wondering If I had missed something.


My WSM calls out 190minus 20mm.
current measur at the measuring point on the rear link is at 222 mm

GregBBRD

Getting the vehicle to ride height is very difficult, without pulling the car down.
Even after pulling the vehicles down, they will settle significantly, over a couple of months.

The new rubber pieces will exert a huge additional "spring force" until they twist enough to find their "happy place" and have no effect on the spring rate (until they flex up or down.)
Note that the cars will understeer significantly more (than they already do), until the rubber reaches their neutral point, due to this increased front spring rate.
And the less that the rubber pieces get "pulled down" (or settle), the worse the understeer will be!

If you study how the suspension works and what the rubber pieces actually do/need to do, there is a "short cut" to get the front end closer to ride height.

One you figure out the short cut, the front will likely still settle some, over the next few months of use.
(There's virtually no way to know where the neutral position is, without being able to measure the force exerted only by the spring at the position it is set at, and this is extremely complex to measure., when the rubber is still exerting a force.)

We've been getting cars close to the desired ride height, recording that dimension, and aligning the cars at that ride height.
When the cars settle, it's pretty easy to raise the springs to get the cars back up to the desired ride height.
The alignment changes very little, if you maintain the ride height at which the car was aligned.
Once the car 'settles" down completely, "kissing" the alignment to get it perfect, doesn't require much change.

Darklands

Here in Germany you can shop two different LCA. Normal or Sport.

https://partworks.de/partworks-de-porsche-928-6-vorderachse-lenkung/

Speedtoys

That's unfortunate.

This is what happens when someone doesn't understand why the 928 bushings are different than just about anything else.

Darklands

https://prekom.si/porsche-parts/porsche-928/

Prekom build the whole Range of suspension Parts.

firemn131

I have the current set up with all rubber (aft LCA bolts, both fore and aft UCA bolts, Drop links) loose. It was so easy to get it to drop previously on the lift. Of course that was before I installed LCA's.

I kept thinking I had done something wrong on the strut build up, as the adjusting nut was able to go full travel with no discernable change.

I now put both adjusting nuts back to factory set (flush with inner threaded sleeve) and will ride it out I guess.

I will be able to go to Frenzy for a day, so maybe another set of eyes will affirm all is correct.

Thanks everyone.

Best

John

mytblue

Thank you all for your contribution to this thread.

I'm working through front & rear strut/control arm replacement now on my 86.5 & this thread is a treasure trove of info.

David